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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
The official stoked thread!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
7-Sep-2009
2:40:47 PM
On 7/09/2009 dalai wrote:
>As of yesterday, current Victorian Masters MMAS2 Road Time Trial champion...
>
>In three weeks time I'll be up in Canberra for the Australian Masters
>Road Championships!

Stokedforyadalai!

Is this also the start of a new round of interstate rivalry to make the climbing forays into yonder territory pale into insignificance?
Heh

On 5/09/2009 Phil S wrote:
>I'm unbelievably stoked that my beloved Kawasaki ZX9R is finally fixed
>- exactly five weeks since we got clobbered by a silly motor(car)ist who
>thought that spontaneous lane changes do not require use of mirrors (or
>it wouldn't be spontaneous... or something).

StokedforyatooPhilS!
Having the bike out of action is more than inconvenient eh!
~> It is not the destination but the journey one takes to get there ...

MonkeyBoy
7-Sep-2009
4:12:36 PM
"it really really really reallllllly helps if you aid
>up a climb on top rope while learning to trad climb"

Hey Olbert, so on the weekend I was climbing with a lead rope and a second rope through a top rope anchor to my belayer. Placing gear and clipping in as if my belay was on the lead rope. I didn't aid or weight any of my placements, but what your saying is set the same thing up again and the actually pull myself up the climb using the gear I just placed ? I suppose to give me confidence in my placements. Cheers for the advice.

O

ambyeok
7-Sep-2009
4:53:08 PM
On 7/09/2009 MonkeyBoy wrote:
>actually pull myself up the climb using the gear I just placed ?

Yes, this is a great trad training technique that I have seen even very experienced climbers do... mind you, I am yet to determine why they always seem to choose to test the quality of their gear placement right at the crux (edit: heh heh ;) or some such)

D.Lodge
7-Sep-2009
5:07:14 PM

>Me, well I'm stoked to have had an enjoyable rogaine on the weekend, despite
>not being able to complete our loop back quite the way we had intended...
>Vic champs in one and a half months.
Nice one Cruze, my girlfriend, her sister and husband did that one on saturday as well. But she lost a good lightweight rain jacket and her headtorch, guess this could go on the gutted thread but i did have a weekend to myself hehehehehehe
Olbert
7-Sep-2009
10:12:12 PM
On 7/09/2009 MonkeyBoy wrote:
>Hey Olbert,
Well I can hardly claim that I invented the technique myself, I read once when mikl(Mike Law) posted about doing it. I actually first used it cos I was so terrified whilst climbing a route that I almost spewed. I managed to climb two thirds of the way up it before my terrifiedness got the better of me. I sat on my gear, for the first time ever testing a piece placed on lead. I then proceeded to aid my way up resting/pulling on every subsequent piece. None of them pulled! Subsequently I came back and crushed that route with much less fear! I have now even taken a proper lead fall!!

ajfclark
9-Sep-2009
3:52:47 PM
Stoked that my cousin can make it down from Brisbane for a week at Araps in November.

gordoste
9-Sep-2009
5:34:42 PM
AirAsia is good for short-haul, who cares when you're only on the plane for 2 hours?

JimboV10
10-Sep-2009
9:23:14 AM
Stoked that I am going bouldering, on REAL ROCK, for TWO DAYS!!! Stoked!

BoulderBaby
10-Sep-2009
9:48:42 AM
Is stoked that she can grit.

Sarah Gara
13-Sep-2009
8:56:16 PM
I'm stoked that I finally after much procrastination (last two visits and about an hour racking up) led horn piece. scary, even more so after I dropped half the wires half way up... phew. Loved it can't wait til next time. x

ajfclark
13-Sep-2009
9:17:19 PM
Nice work Sarah.
egosan
13-Sep-2009
11:45:40 PM
Congo Rats, Sarah. Big ones!

foreverabumbly
14-Sep-2009
12:01:07 AM
thats exciting, I love that climb, one of the best 13's around
climbingjac
14-Sep-2009
4:46:48 AM
Stoked we are finally in Kalymnos doing a month's "hard time" climbing !!!!!!!

Sarah Gara
14-Sep-2009
12:13:10 PM
On 14/09/2009 foreverabumbly wrote:
>thats exciting, I love that climb, one of the best 13's around

Thanks guys. Yeah I really enjoyed it -well afterwards anyway... what next? I was feeling brave about trying a 14 but then fell several times (on 2nd) on 2nd pitch of D Minor so kinda scared me again... suggestions for this coming weekend anyone? something that requires little or no upper body strength? x

Eduardo Slabofvic
14-Sep-2009
12:16:04 PM
10 more sleeps untill I've got 3 months climbing in China and Laos. Warmth, tropical fruit, and all the limestone I can eat.
gfdonc
14-Sep-2009
2:46:53 PM
On 14/09/2009 Sarah Gara wrote:
> suggestions
>for this coming weekend anyone? something that requires little or no upper
>body strength? x

Take Five?
At least you don't have to worry if you drop your wires again.

Sarah Gara
14-Sep-2009
3:55:37 PM
On 14/09/2009 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>10 more sleeps untill I've got 3 months climbing in China and Laos. Warmth,
>tropical fruit, and all the limestone I can eat.

Oh so jealous...

gfdonc wrote:
>Take Five?
>At least you don't have to worry if you drop your wires again.

take 5? are yyou implying that i need to rest? (hope not - did i mention that Robinvale is dull? apart from the windmill -granted. and Araps is all the excitement i get?) or is that a route? not come acrooss that one - where's that? x
egosan
14-Sep-2009
4:08:45 PM
On 14/09/2009 Sarah Gara wrote:
> or is that a route? not come acrooss that one
>- where's that? x

Get out your Araps guide, Sarah.

Stoked that my hand has come around fully. Pulling as hard as I was before I put the hole
in it.

Stoked that I will be at the Pines this weekend. Counting down.
gfdonc
14-Sep-2009
5:05:25 PM
On 14/09/2009 Sarah Gara wrote:
>
>all the excitement i get?) or is that a route? not come acrooss that one
>- where's that? x

Right Watchtower Face. But don't take me seriously! It meets your stated criteria but has some slight disadvantages in terms of a surplus of grade and a deficit of protection.


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There are 1985 messages in this topic.

 

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