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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 4 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 91
Author
Aid Climbing Help

penguinator
1-Nov-2007
3:47:08 PM
Seeing as this thread has been highjacked multiple times, I may aswell ask something!

Do you prefer rope ladder style aiders? Or the classic ones? (M9)

wallwombat
1-Nov-2007
3:52:06 PM
I'd say Dogface is probably the only cliff in Oz where you would still use pitons and maybe a few climbs in the Wolgan.

The same Ukrainian Ebay store I got my cams from had some cool looking hammers for a very good price , not long ago, but I checked the other day and they don't seem to be selling them anymore.

I use a modified ballpeen hammer that I use but I'm a cheapskate and don't want to spend a $100+ on something that doesn't get used that often.

By the way, I wasn't trying to sell you that hook or the old tied etriers. You can have em.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
1-Nov-2007
4:03:15 PM
On 1/11/2007 penguinator wrote:
>Seeing as this thread has been highjacked multiple times, I may aswell
>ask something!
I wonder what shaneftr thinks of that? (He started the thread 6/10/07 and last logged in on the 7/10/07).
It is an informative thread, so I doubt he will complain too much.

>Do you prefer rope ladder style aiders? Or the classic ones? (M9)
It all comes down to personal preference and the intended style of route that you see yourself most doing.
The rope-ladder style is probably easier to use in full on overhangs. The yanks went away from that euro design for their walls, but I find putting your feet into steps on a windy day more difficult in the classics when they are hanging free.
The ruskies have a neat knee-brace setup which is reputedly efficient for 'high-stepping', but, ... having said all that, if I was going out to replace my classic gear today I'd seriously consider the metolius adjustable etts.

>modified ballpeen hammer
I found the head of one of those at the base of Ozy ...

muki
1-Nov-2007
7:44:27 PM
I know alot of others have said that you won't need/use the heads, but it depends really on how hard you
want to go, I get the impression that you are starting out with aid.... but the heads are the aid equivalent
of a super hard trad lead, the climb that M9 has noted copperhead road, is a very serious aid climb, if
one head were to fail, then the ones under you would fail as well! this is not the type of aiding that would
suit a novice! serious injury and death can be the result of such a cascade failure, but when you do get
to that level, then there are many first ascents with your name on them! and I will be very impressed by
those aid climbs, because they are at the outer limit of what is possible! I'm no longer into that level of
commitment, as I have a young family who depend on my comming home at the end of the day!
Take some small steps on the road to becomming an aid aficionado, start with M1, and not M6...BP

penguinator
1-Nov-2007
9:53:07 PM
If he is buying copperheads, wouldn't he need a hammer and chisel regardless?
brendan
1-Nov-2007
10:33:33 PM
i found this video from a link off andy kirpatrick's pychovertical website http://www.splitterchoss.com/blog/2007/10/17/the-aid-climbing-rant/ this should stir up some people

muki
2-Nov-2007
12:56:26 AM
On 1/11/2007 penguinator wrote:
>If he is buying copperheads, wouldn't he need a hammer and chisel regardless?

Thats like saying if he's gonna use pitons would'nt he need a hammer?
The "chisel" is the other side of the hammer, a pointy bit to mash the copper heads (or Mashy's) in.
Most aid hammers also have a hole at the head, to attach the carabiner to the funkeness devise, and
a hole at the base of the handle to keep it secure.
But I would just buy a geology hammer and modify the long beak into a short pointy bit, and drill a hole
in it on the beak side, some really nice anti-vibration models out there that are much lighter than a
standard big walling hammer, but still heavy enough to drive pitons and funk placements with, if you
are using heads, you really want to be very gentle about placing them as too much force with the
hammer might destroy the crystals you are trying to grab hold of with the mashy.

Phil Box
2-Nov-2007
8:04:38 AM
On 1/11/2007 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>The ruskies have a neat knee-brace setup which is reputedly efficient
>for 'high-stepping', but, ... having said all that, if I was going out
>to replace my classic gear today I'd seriously consider the metolius adjustable
>etts.


The Yates adjustables are far superior to the Metolious adjustables daiseys. The Russian aiders rool. I can high step about 40 percent more than anyone else even on very overhang terrain.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
2-Nov-2007
1:31:10 PM
Adjustable etts or daisies?
I noted comments on another thread re Yates being the better adjustable daisies, but seem to recall reading something elsewhere about adjustable etts being available also.

Having not used the Russian setup myself, how would you rate them in a pure roof environment?

>I can high step about 40 percent more than anyone else

... think of all the marvelous placement experiences that you are missing* out on !
Heh, heh, heh.

(*The journey/moments etc. ~> It is obvious that I am unlikely to ever get up anything significant 'in a day' with 40% more time added to my ascent!!).

On 1/11/2007 brendan wrote:
>i found this video from a link off andy kirpatrick's pychovertical website
>http://www.splitterchoss.com/blog/2007/10/17/the-aid-climbing-rant/ this
>should stir up some people
Quite an interesting link brendan. Thanks for posting it.
I tend to agree with Chris Kalous's 'rant', which is why (amongst other things), I am a staunch supporter of Australia retaining its open ended 'M' system of grading Aid Climbs.

Phil Box
2-Nov-2007
2:59:41 PM
Yes, Metolius do have adjustable ets as well as daiseys. The Metolius ets are pretty good. The reason I don't like the Metolius daiseys are that they are problematic to release under tension. One has to unweight them to release them whereas the Yates can be released virtually whilst they are under tension. Just pull on the tail and release the button on the buckle. When hoisting yourself on the daiseys you virtually have a 2 to 1 haul system with infinite adjustability. The Metolius ets do not suffer from the same problem of having to unweight to adjust as the foot merely has to unweight from the et for easy adjustment. Once unweighted they are a one handed adjustment.

The Ruskies work great in a pure roof environment. They are much more stable even in this extreme environment. Your centre of gravity is much much lower with the Russians. Only problem is that you either have to make a set or try to source from the US and that is not at all dependable even if you can find where to get them from. No, mine are not for sale. ;))

Macciza
2-Nov-2007
10:11:44 PM
Sorry about the delay in the reply
Yes I reckon we could sort out some sort of aid-day . . .
Email me off-list guys and we can work something out.

So cool to see such an active aid discussion - I have barely had to say a word - weird . . .

penguinator
3-Nov-2007
8:57:31 AM
Count me in for a day of fun. Forget beer, I will donate hard liquor.

Macciza
3-Nov-2007
9:07:40 AM

Forget beer, or hard liquor. - I'm vegetarian . . . nudge, nudge, wink,wink, say no more . . .

penguinator
3-Nov-2007
9:23:47 AM
Vegetable stock? Or maybe some green tea?

Capt_mulch
3-Nov-2007
7:43:43 PM
Bring on the vegetables! Sounds like coming out about Aid is going to be more fun then three guys heading off into the bush bare chested with mattresses strapped to their backs! Wait till all the stuff I compulsively ordered from the US comes through in the next week or so (hardware, not vegetables). Sorry Rock Hardware, but with the exchange rate and all, the gear is so damn "cheap" (perception is relative).
ademmert
3-Nov-2007
7:55:40 PM
On 3/11/2007 Capt_mulch wrote:
>Wait till all the stuff I compulsively ordered
>from the US comes through in the next week or so

where are you ordering from that send to oz?? you can pm me if you want to keep it quiet

cheers
adam

penguinator
3-Nov-2007
9:19:11 PM
Mulch, watch out for hidden fees!

I ordered in about $2800 of gear from the states for me and my friends, and after it arrived I was informed I had to pay an additional $450 of import taxes on top of that (before they delivered it to my door).

Even then, still worth it! Mmmmm shiny new cams

Capt_mulch
3-Nov-2007
9:25:22 PM
I haven't been hit up for any import duties etc. yet, and I've been ordering online from the US for at least ten years. I ordered in two lots so the price is not high - I think the problem is if you order big amounts they start to see it as commercial lots. We'll see - viva global free trade (hey, aren't we meant to have a free trade agreement Mr Howard?).

penguinator
3-Nov-2007
9:35:00 PM
Iv been told its completely random who they charge and who they don't. I ordered a similar amount last year and they didn't charge any extra. It's strange.

One thing I know now..... Try on shoes before you buy them :( Looks like I am going to have to sell my new Pitons. Or get an exchange.... but I am not sure if I will have to pay for shipping both ways.

Capt_mulch
3-Nov-2007
10:12:41 PM
Tell me about it - I have five pairs of 48s - 5.10s, Boreal, Mammut, Scarpas and Mad Rocks - every single pair is a different size from the others - the Mad Rocks are nearly 2cm shorter than the Scarpas - yeah, but they're all 48s! As we say in the I.T. business, the nice thing about standards is that there are so many to choose from...

 Page 4 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 91
There are 91 messages in this topic.

 

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