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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 91
Author
Aid Climbing Help
widewetandslippery
31-Oct-2007
1:53:07 PM
Last Chance was one of the first routes I ever did at Piddo (in keeping with most of my climbing it was an ascent rather than a more defining description). We had a set of RPs, set of wires and 3 friends and therefore were equiped. Good route. Last done with the above mentioned Zac not so long ago (he scared me through his competance). Done it 4 times maybe. Recomend. The beginning is funky.

penguinator
31-Oct-2007
2:19:05 PM
Would love to have a bash at aiding it. Might give it a try when I'm up there at the beginning of Dec.

wallwombat
31-Oct-2007
2:22:00 PM
Being in that alchove it should be reasonably shaded. Piddo gets mighty hot in December.

evanbb
31-Oct-2007
2:24:09 PM
I'd love to have a bash at Aiding too. I think it's a useful skill to have in the toolbox if nothing else; I want to get onto some committing multi-pitch trad routes and i reckon aid skills would be a great help to get out of some sticky situations.

Macca or other Blueys locals; Would you consider an informal day on the rock with some sort of remuneration from the attendees? Maybe beer or similar? What do you reckon?

EB

wallwombat
31-Oct-2007
2:31:21 PM
There is a good little article by Phil Box on aiding through crux sections of free climbs in the Tech Tips section on this site.

Capt_mulch
31-Oct-2007
2:44:47 PM
> Macca or other Blueys locals; Would you consider an informal day on the rock with some sort of
> remuneration from the attendees? Maybe beer or similar?

I'd be interested too - I'm happy to contribute beer funds. A weekend in the Blueys would be great aswell - it would be a nice excuse to get up there.

wallwombat
31-Oct-2007
2:57:00 PM
mulchey, I'm thinking about heading up there soon for a few days at least. Let me know when you are planning on going up.
brendan
31-Oct-2007
3:05:45 PM
i'd be up for some aid action to nick

Capt_mulch
31-Oct-2007
3:15:28 PM
Now how did I know you'd be interested Brendan! How about the weekend of the 10/11th or the 24th/25th november. Leave Canberra Friday arvo 4.30ish - in the Blueys by 8.30pm - back on Sunday evening.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
31-Oct-2007
3:41:01 PM
Re; reading recent posts to this thread ...

Aahh it sharpens the tangs of an old aid climbers piton rack, to see such enthusiasm and the numbers involved!

wallwombat
31-Oct-2007
3:54:45 PM
What are 'tangs', Rod?


IdratherbeclimbingM9
31-Oct-2007
4:17:49 PM
The bent bits on the ends. You know, the bits that always snag the slings and ruin your trousers!, ... much like hooks have a tendency to do.

When getting prepped for an aid extravaganza, I drag out the rack, beat the bent buggers flat (again), and file off said tangs. Likewise will file off burrs on nuts, lube the cams if they need it, check/tighten all the sling knots, etc ....
... ~> all up an enjoyable ritual of anticipation.



Capt_mulch
31-Oct-2007
4:24:40 PM
Hey I'm just picking up on Brendan's rave - he's interested in climbing anything and any style - also, I'm a gear freak - any opportunity to buy more gear is fine by me ;-)

Capt_mulch
31-Oct-2007
4:26:21 PM
Sounds like we might have to go down to Mt Buffallo and get M9 to do some Yoda stuff with us...

wallwombat
31-Oct-2007
4:42:09 PM
Ha ha. Now they're comparing you to Yoda, Rod

''Hmmm , power drills, ringbolts, an aid climber craves not these things''

Imagine the rack, a short arse like Yoda would need to get up something big.


I can barely get off the ground with my rack, now. If I bought anymore, I'd be standing in a hole.

Mind you, I could do with a really big cam.
CanBeDone
31-Oct-2007
4:47:59 PM
I just did my first Aid pitch at Piddo last weekend! Was bloody hard work to start of with. I found the wider cracks alot slower to move up on then the wired nut placements?
It was good fun once I got my head around the order of thing. Wish I had some sky Hooks as it would has made some sections alot faster and saver to move though.

Bring on the bigger and better line I say!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
31-Oct-2007
4:50:12 PM
WW is aid-speak for gear-freak?
Heh, heh, heh.

Mind you, sorting out melded gear when two well equipped climbers combine their racks for an Aid adventure can take a fair while on the day after topping out ...

Having a rack like you describe is probably still small if you take on solo aiding ..., unless you short pitch when you run out of gear.

CBD wrote;
>Was bloody hard work to start of with.
Another new convert who has discovered it isn't as easy as some would think!

>I found the wider cracks alot slower to move up on then the wired nut placements?
Nah. That's why cams are known as crack jumars.

>Wish I had some sky Hooks as it would has made some sections alot faster and saver to move though.
Although confident on hooks, I would not generally describe them as safer, and certainly hard hooking is quite a slow affair.
... Test sketchy placement / placement blows / search for another / find one not as good as the first / test / ~> Ah, it holds! ~> one move higher repeat process / place / test / ... fear of unzipping if it blows and a fall ensues? ... ~> 4th or 5th move out; ... would be good to get something solid for pro! ... ~> orright a seam ... ~> should take a #2 RP ! ~> feeling a whole lot better now !!!

Heh, heh, heh.

wallwombat
31-Oct-2007
5:12:18 PM

>WW is aid-speak for gear-freak?
>Heh, heh, heh.

Unfortunately, this is probably true.

>Mind you, sorting out melded gear when two well equipped climbers combine
>their racks for an Aid adventure can take a fair while on the day after
>topping out ...

Again , true.

>Having a rack like you describe is probably still small if you take on
>solo aiding ..., unless you short pitch when you run out of gear.

Yes, I agree. I now have 18 cams and 2/3 sets of nuts, as well as numerous small wires/RPs and a few hexes and about 4/5 different hooks. I think if I were to aid solo a reasonably long pitch it would have to involve quite a bit of back cleaning.


>>I found the wider cracks alot slower to move up on then the wired nut
>placements?
>Nah. Thats why cams are known as crack jumars.

Thats why I need a couple of big cams. Although I reckon , when the going gets wide it's often better to break out the free moves.

>>Wish I had some sky Hooks as it would has made some sections alot faster
>and saver to move though.

Cam hooks can be good for speeding things up on thin cracks

IdratherbeclimbingM9
31-Oct-2007
5:22:52 PM
>to aid solo a reasonably long pitch it would have to involve quite a bit of back cleaning.

Yes. It is an intrigueing thing.

Climbs like Ozy are a bugga because they use the full range of sizes. Lots of thin stuff low and wide stuff on higher pitches, so you end up taking the lot.

The converse is that climbs that don't require the full range of sizes, often require multiples of similar size, and that is when you notice the lack of gear most ...

When free climbing, some of my most enjoyable outings have been when I have judged it right and been scratching for enough gear to set a belay after leading a pitch.
I don't think I have ever topped out an aid climb and been scratching for gear. I have either stopped early when the required stuff runs out (short-pitching), or I have heaps with me; ... usually all the left over wrong size stuff !

Either way, the improvisation is fun!


Phil Box
31-Oct-2007
6:17:55 PM
You could also set yourself up with a tag line attached to extra gear that is fifi hooked on a piece. Simply pull the tag line and the hook disengages, haul the extra gear up and repeat ad nauseum till you get to a belay. Saves a heap of weight but don't stuff up and dislodge the tagged gear otherwise you'll be shockloaded when you least expect it.

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There are 91 messages in this topic.

 

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