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General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 27
Euro trip ideas?

Edward Sillypants
11:33:40 PM
OK mate , me n Neil r organising things next wk ... probably e-mail u wth the details around Wednesday , ... mmm-kay ... HB will be coming along too ... dalai is busy sanding his eves still !!! I'm going round on Saturday to help him , and gt the painting finished , so he cn come too --- without his missus going ballistic cos the eves need to be done , cos the house will be on the market soon ... mmm-kay ...
3:45:39 PM
On 4/10/2007 Duncan wrote:
>Is June too hot for the Verdon?


4:18:32 PM
>On 4/10/2007 Duncan wrote:
>>Is June too hot for the Verdon?

Yes. The main mutli-pitch cliff gets blasted at about midday. There are other more minor shady options in
the gorge that still make it ok. If I had a choice I would choose another time to visit, but if i had no
choice, then i would still go to Verdon - its simply too good to miss! Just bring a lot of sunscreen and get
up very early and siesta in the middle of the day.
11:32:58 PM
On 4/10/2007 Duncan wrote:
>Is June too hot for the Verdon?

I climbed there in late June and it was hot but said above you can climb on the other side if the heat is too much.

was in Ceuse in May this year and it rained everyday so be careful.....went back in late July and had a fantastic 8 days there (seeing DG on realization as well)....if you want to get good at sport climbing Ceuse is the of the best crags i've been to with excellent stuff at all grades (although you want to be climbing 6b (aussie 20ish) to get the most out of it).

If you want to ditch the car then maybe consider a week or two in of the best sports destinations ever.....was there for 10 days last month and can't wait to get back.....although it is best as a spring autumn option.

Eduardo Slabofvic
9:01:07 PM
On 4/10/2007 nmonteith wrote:
>The place is massive, but i thought the rock quality was pretty rubbish
>on the routes. Its certainly a
>'not to be missed' area, but I think i'd spend 50% of my time walking
>and via ferratering rather than just
>focusing on the roped climbing.

I've made 4 trips to the Dolomites as it is my most favourite area to climb. It is true that there is a lot
of loose rock there, so if you don't like lose rock then don't go, in fact if you don't like loose rock stay
away from anywhere where there is a freeze/thaw regime in place.

While in the Dolomites, keep to the routes that are on grey rock, as it is the best quality rock, the red
rock is o.k. but beware, the yellow rock is horrible and you'll know it straight away, and the white rock
can hardly be described as rock as it has the tendency to shatter into thousands of small particles if
you happen to look at it in the wrong way.

I've never had to que for a route, and have done many. I found the opposite to be true of Verdon and
Prelles, but I only spent a few days at Verdon and a week at Prelles. I've probably spent a few months
in the Dolomites, and am only just getting to know my way around - it's a very big region.
5:07:20 PM
I'm planning on heading over to Europe next year also, for an extended trip that takes me to as many crags as possible!

One thing I'm wondering about are guides. I love the idea of going to all these countries and sampling all the crags, but obviously don't want to deal with lugging around a few kilo's of books. Are there any guides available that cover an extensive area, or other ideas?
8:09:24 PM
Generally not for sport climbing....i've got one each for Buoux, Verdon, Ceuse, Finale etc....exceptions are the Filidor guides (mainly for alpine areas):

and the Arrampicate series by an Italian publisher.

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There are 27 messages in this topic.


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