Goto Chockstone Home

  Tech Tips

      Sponsored By

Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 11. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180 | 181 to 200 | 201 to 203
Removing bolts to create trad paradise

6:45:55 PM
Someone I know is interested in removing all bolts from a certain multipitch trad venue in the
Grampians (currently closed due to bush fire damage). This cliff has some of the most popular longer
routes in the Grampians, but sadly there is a scattering of bolted routes amoungst the many glorious
trad routes. He is proposing the removal of any previously placed bolts to create a 'bolt free zone' so
trad climbers can enjoy an area without the visual pollution of bolts. It will be any area that respects
the skill of placing trad gear, and the all day adventure asssociated with multi-pitch ground up
climbing. No rap anchors, no lead bolts and maybe even no pitons. To descend you walk down. It will
be an attractive venue to visiting climbers who are interested in climbing with minimal impact. The
area will be open to headpoint new ascents of the previous bolted routes (Routes which previously
contained bolts will have their first free ascent records nulled due to the new ethics of this area.
Guidebooks will be updated accordingly).

7:16:33 PM
And you are saying this because???

If the guy is serious he is going to do it anyway. Otherwise T0 on the troll scale.

If you want a debate on this forum over whether people think it is a good idea, then you of all people know how that is going to pan out.

I just hope nobody gets hurt because of this guys actions (ie lack of information to those who don't check forums or update guidebooks).

7:16:35 PM
I call bullshit on that

push my big red button, Monty

7:27:42 PM
Cool - Count me in Neil . . .
All I would ask is that we be allowed to rap from bollards, chickenheads or chockstones . . .
I can get by without the bolts and the rap anxhors, but please allow hand-placed pins . . .
And if people get hurt, so be it - let the climber beware, I am not my brothers keeper . . .
7:51:11 PM
Well of course it's Rosea (Redman's would qualify but they probably haven't been there).

Do you realise how many bolts there actually are at Rosea? To remove all of Chris Baxters aid bolts alone would take more lifetimes than most of us are prepared for ;)

I suspect the scheme is just a cover for making money from the scrap metal value.
8:27:52 PM
Why stop with 1 crag, if you think you can do the route without gear chop the bolt.
I have a friend also who wants to chop bolts, but his focus is more on the worthless sport crags that have been established over the past few years. I'm all for headpointing routes, let's keep climbing elitist!
8:32:50 PM
On 3/05/2007 kieranl wrote:
>Well of course it's Rosea

That's what I first thought of too.
IMHO I find all the old carrot bolts smattered here and there attractive as it shows the heritage of the cliff, and the lengths that were required to climb this cliff. I definately wouldnt advise using them, but it's interesting for me to climb past them and use my own protection in place of the bolt, that is now available to use.
Thats just my 2c, take it or leave it.
9:23:51 PM
I take it this individual has spoken to each and every FA of the lines featuring bolts, and asked permission to mess with their lines? I thought not...

Chuck Norris
10:26:53 PM
which idol do we turn to when all the first ascionists have died?
10:41:47 PM
On 3/05/2007 stugang wrote:
>which idol do we turn to when all the first ascionists have died?

I've actually wondered about this one too. The only people I can think of at the moment, are the climbing partners of the FA, as they would have an understanding of the ethics this person utilised. Just a thought. not sure otherwise. my 2c

11:49:31 PM
I will assume you are serious... as you haven't been known to descend to trolling often.

What about us poor sods who want to lead climbs at this crag which are beyond our trad leading comfort level. You cannot say "go climb something else if you cannot follow in the FA's footsteps" as the climb was established with bolts. You are free to omit it from your own rebolting efforts but preventing others from rebolting these climbs is not OK - unless there is a clear consensus including the FA's that it is a good move.

12:26:47 AM
The world moves forward, our gear gets better and easier to place, bolts are like chalk, you clip (dip) it cause it's there, but do you really need it?
If the climb can be climbed Trad without ridiculous run outs, then chop it :-)
4:54:20 AM
is the proposed 'bastion of trad' Rosea or the Assess Ears?
9:20:07 AM
Pembroke in Wales was retrodebolted back in the early nineties.

Seemed to work out OK because the majority was in favour.

Some bold E8s and E9s were then climbed.

Some places are suitable for this.

9:28:50 AM
I must have missed that Pembroke action. What routes were they then?!

Edit: Note to oneself to read post properly. Retrodebolted. That's a new word for me! Thought you meant retr0-bolted. Coffee time.

9:33:49 AM
Just jumped across for some cross pollination. I think they should go for it! I'm all for segregation of styles at different areas.
9:47:54 AM
How about chopping Arapiles? It is the most obvious choice for a trad only crag. Just get rid of the Flight wall, Punks and the ring route gully and you'll have some sweet mexican goodness.

10:48:40 AM
...this is a serious proposal and yes, the crag in question is rosea.

11:16:04 AM
Who gave this guy the right to play god. The idea of someone removing bolts from an area coz they think it should all be trad creates an ugly precedent - where does it stop.

I do not support this action.
11:22:57 AM
I think chopping arapiles would be a much more sensible and cronguent proposition.

 Page 1 of 11. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180 | 181 to 200 | 201 to 203
There are 203 messages in this topic.


Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.

Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints