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General Climbing Discussion

Catherdral Ranges Bouldering

8:45:15 AM
On the weekend I followed a rumor and headed out to The Catherdral Ranges to see if I could find some of the fabled bouldering. At the ye olde cliff The Sugarloaf I found many excellent problems, simialr to Andersons at Stapylton. Thin slightly overhung faces with the occasional pocket. I only found one chalked problem, deep inside a chasm just below the mian cliff of The Sugarloaf. There looks like lots of potenial if people are keen to get out there - and the 10min walk in was also very good. I also went to all the other crags but didn't find much that excited me. You would really want several good crashmats as most landings are nasty broken rocks or steep slopes. Has anyone else been out there?

9:03:34 AM

Did a bit of bouldering out there a few months back. See the Cathedral write up. The "sugarloaf boulder", documented in the Eastern districts guide as having about a dozen short problems on it looked like a crap, slimy, sloping thing to me. I did find a nice little problem on the summit, here's a pic. Also did some general traversing at the main sugarloaf cliff.

9:50:01 AM
The summit boudlers were excellent - and some great looking highballs. I did a few problems up to V2ish but without a crashmat or spotter it was a bit death. Did you climb the overhung arete problem that you are photographed underneath of?
10:07:04 AM
so its worth a trip out there just to boulder?

and neil, did u get to sunset strip?


10:15:31 AM
Ive done a bit of bouldering on the sugarloaf boulder, and also in the vicinity of the Sugarloaf itself, there is certainly some good stuff in there. The North Jawbones didnt seem to have much potential for bouldering. Out of interst Neil, did you make the epic trip into Bissets Pinnicles?

11:12:12 AM
> Did you climb the overhung arete problem that you are photographed underneath of?

I went about halfway up just left of the arete. I chickened out on going further, despite obvious moves. I had hike boots on though :-)

12:01:21 PM
Next trip in the area i will go to the infamous bissets pinnacles. Hopefully the new guide has better access beta.

I did get near Sunset Strip but because of a map confusion ans some new tracks I was in slightly the wrong area - and i spent an hour scarmbling around deathy loose slabs. Very annoying.

12:19:31 PM
oh - and yes its very worthwhile just going for the bouldering. Just stick to the summit area of the Sugarloaf.

2:54:58 PM
I went in there with a mate 3 or 4 years ago (Bissetts) and managed to find them ok using the old guide. Following the road directions was ok (although they had been closed to cars at a different point to what the guide said), the real problem was knwing when to cross the creek and head up the hillside (as you cant see the roack from the track). If I rememeber correctly (its a bit hazy) you head up the hillside to the right just before the creek bends around to the left. I dont want to remenber the prickle bushes, the guide warns you abou them, but there is no describing how horrible they are, suffice to say I remember finding prickle splinters in my fingertips for weeks afterwards, and ended up throwing out the jumper I was wearing on the day.....Spiral Architect was a great climb though.
Online Now
12:29:16 PM
The main bouldering area in the Cathedrals is around Sugarloaf (another area is in the slow process of being developed). I started exploring out there after spending time in Hueco Tanks in 1996 and wanting somewhere to go for an afternoon.
The bouldering is blocks (the Sugarloaf boulders and the Breadloaf) and overhanging uphill side of fins on the way to Wells Cave all up offering ~50 problems to V6.
Some areas have started to be covered again by moss and need another brushing such as the boulders below the Sugarloaf boulders (~12 problems to V5).
The chalked problem Neil is possibly refering to if it is capped by a block is infact the very short top rope Isabel or (V0- highball). If not capped it could be the Ghetto. 4 problems V2 to V6 and up to 7 metres high, but with the ground following below.
Landing for most of the established problems are not too bad, although a spotter and mat wouldn't go astray. Enjoy.

1:27:53 PM

Thans for the info! Would you consider writing up a bit of a guide for this site?

Online Now
1:43:36 PM
Hi Neil,

I have already put together a basic photo topo for this area as well as a few areas closer to Melbourne. I will probably put something together, but only after Tempest and Co bring out their 'best of' guide to avoid them stripping the info as they will do with the Eastern District guide when it appears.

Cheers Martin

2:46:16 PM
he he. cynical.
Online Now
2:08:59 PM
Neil, did you do problems around the summit itself? When bouldering out there I went only as far as Wells Cave. Could you send me info of what you did up there so I can include it in my topo? Cheers Martin

3:07:48 PM
I have to get out there again to document stuff. I didn't have a camera and it was really confusing so I have no way of tellign you what I did. I only did about five problems around V2ish as I had no spotter/crashpad. I might go out this weekend with the camera and write something up.
Online Now
4:44:11 PM
No worries Neil. It will be interesting to see what you did out there last time . If they are established problems, it will be good to see what grades you think they are.

6:04:20 PM
trying to bring this topic back to life as i'm gonna be in the area and have to waste about 3 hours in why not boulder hey?
does anyone have any info or pictures of the boulders at sugarload or surrounding areas? how to get there etc..

sorry i'm a cheap arse and won't buy the eastern vic guidebook..

Much appreciated for any info dug out..
6:32:30 PM
Cathedral is an hour or so from Mansfield!
2:57:19 AM
Some bouldering pics here from

There are 19 messages in this topic.


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