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General Climbing Discussion

Author

Bolting on lead

mikepatt

17-May-2007
7:58:33 AM

Close by no banana heh? Maybe that's a Budawangs Banana?
I'd be interested. Experience includes Frenchman's Cap, Bungles and Grose valley routes.


wallwombat

17-May-2007
8:53:00 AM

Southern Highlands / Morton area was correct. I'm a lousy lier!

But it's a mighty big area

The Budawangs would be interesting. Theres some big lines on the Castle and Mount Cole. Problem is , lugging climbing gear up there would make it more like a mountaineering expedition. Very big approaches.

Has anyone climbed down there?


IdratherbeclimbingM9

17-May-2007
8:53:52 AM

wallwombat wrote on 15/05/07
>I haven't made it to my 'hypothetical route' yet. >Haven't come across anyone made of the appropriate metal to take along. >Too many fru-fru sport climbers !

On 17/05/2007 mikepatt wrote:
>Close by no banana heh? Maybe that's a Budawangs Banana?
>I'd be interested. Experience includes Frenchman's Cap, Bungles and Grose
>valley routes.
& Macciza wrote 13/05/07
>Wallie- message me off-forum if you wish to discuss it further, or need a partner;-}

... It seems you are firing up the juices of the old and gnarly trad-tribe here ww; and I am more than half interested myself!

Is there more than one 'classic' line in the area ? Perhaps we can make a party* of it ?(*one aid team and one trad??).
Gotta love those long hike ins with hand-drills and large racks, (both of which I have. Heh, heh, heh)!
:)
~~~~~~~~~~~
Post edit.

I have always kind of regarded the Budawangs as part of Morton NP.

Another expedition that would be a worthy undertaking is paddling up Lake Yarrunga to access some remote large cliff lines higher on the escarpment deep within the Park ~> mega paddle plus a mega hike? Heh, heh, heh.


wallwombat

17-May-2007
9:17:49 AM

There are a few classic looking lines, Rod. I'll try and get some pics soon as I have a portion of my rack hanging on a crack on the opposite side of the valley. That was the wasp's nest fiasco. Which is what I think I'll call the climb once I return with a can of Baygon.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

17-May-2007
9:30:16 AM

On 16/05/2007 Macciza wrote:
>Yeah I think they take the whole 'stone' thing far more seriously down
>there and forget all about the 'sand' part of it, oh well - what if you bolt on the border? Then what? . .

It is mostly granite around here (Albury/Wodonga border area), and some other stuff, but not much sand unless you go specifically looking for it.


wallwombat

17-May-2007
10:04:11 AM

Paddling up the Shoalhaven from Lake Yurrunga and hittting some of those clifffs has been on my hit list for a long time. I think that maybe oct/nov this year it will be done.


HM33

17-May-2007
10:20:33 AM

there is so much rock like this in the morton


IdratherbeclimbingM9

17-May-2007
10:34:24 AM

Thereyago nm; ... It'd take most peoples 5 hours to access the cliff in the far-far distance within shawkshaws piccie.
Btw the cliffs pictured are small time compared to other stuff deeper in the NP.

Once upon a time I looked around that area using a 4wd on firetrail type tracks as access, but those days are 'gone' now, unless you hike ...


HM33

17-May-2007
10:46:35 AM

its not the size of the cliff that im keen on its the quality of the rock. the white streaked wall in this photo looks to similar to the white streaked wall we have been developing nearby. its awesome fine grained sandstone unlike stuff ive seen around the sydney area before.


Garrath

17-May-2007
11:07:33 AM

While I have heard of people climbing in the Budawangs, I also know that some areas could have a climbing ban in place. Yes lugging gear up to the Castle would be hell.


anthonyk

17-May-2007
11:57:50 AM

its national park as well & popular in areas, so hanging off the side of the castle with a power drill would not be looked on very favourably i would guess


anthonyk

17-May-2007
12:14:34 PM

On 17/05/2007 Garrath wrote:
>While I have heard of people climbing in the Budawangs, I also know that
>some areas could have a climbing ban in place.

actually they encourage it-


Garrath

17-May-2007
3:28:35 PM

Let me guess that sign is located at the start of the Castle walk??


anthonyk

17-May-2007
4:32:25 PM

On 17/05/2007 Garrath wrote:
>Let me guess that sign is located at the start of the Castle walk??

yep

maybe we should nick the sign and stick it up at the gap, then when ranger jane comes to get you in trouble you just point at the sign and say its all part of the walk


IdratherbeclimbingM9

17-May-2007
7:58:37 PM

Not The Gap.
Better on Nth Head for accessing The Fear.
(... though I suspect that is where you meant)!
:)


mousey

17-May-2007
8:20:59 PM

i may need to borrow that for balls pyramid too....

climberman

17-May-2007
9:24:27 PM

I think the obvious sets of lines on The Castle have all been climbed. I have climbed half a pitch before my testosterone ran out as the cobbles retreated out with a hand pull. It's all no-school-like-the-old-school-fool stuff. All sans bolts. By a few years after I would have loved it having some more experiential pitches under the belt but it was a great learning/stumbling experience. Umm, Warwick ? Bryden ? Beuller ? I spoke to someone who had forgotten that they were on the first ascent but even my convo was close to 15 years ago I think. Anyway, Sinny Rockies' library would have the original route info. The topo is like something drawn on the back of a beer coaster at the pub IIRC.

Funny this came along I am back there for the first time in ten years for a day walk with me digger (Mt Bushwalker we think). Have fun, adventure routes are the things of dreams and memories and a failed wild route is better than a stomped consumer line any old time, to me at least.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

17-May-2007
9:38:53 PM

>Have fun, adventure routes are the things of dreams and memories and a failed wild route is better than a stomped consumer line any old time, to me at least.

... and me.


mousey

17-May-2007
9:40:18 PM

and me.

18-May-2007
10:21:01 AM

There was a photo "topo" of some climbing in the Budawangs published in Thrutch about 30 years ago, so I guess that makes it "old school".

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