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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 89
Author
Bolting on lead

wallwombat
19/03/2007
5:54:08 PM
But I have to admit the rock is a very similar quality sandstone.

nmonteith
19/03/2007
5:56:40 PM
the advantage of big dynabolts is that you can un-screw them and pull them out easily (and replace with
glue-in bolts). Think of them as dodgy cheap cams.

wallwombat
19/03/2007
6:00:15 PM
That's pretty much what I've decided to do.

nmonteith
19/03/2007
6:03:14 PM
On 19/03/2007 chris wrote:
>Of course there are the occasional towering wall of choss, and the patina
>of hard rock overlying the soft rock is varying in thickness, but this
>is true of crags like Taipan, which has a hard patina over incredibly loose
>choss.

I'm not sure where you get that impression from? (Spurt wall perhaps!) In my 8+ years of bolting in the
Gramps I think i might have only had a handfull of bolts that went into soft rock. Mostly it is damn
bomber all the way through. Im happy to use 10mm expansion bolts at 99% of Gramps crags.

Macciza
19/03/2007
11:28:27 PM
Hey Wallie
Carrots are fine in my book and depending on all sorts of things chances are they will still be fine in
40years - stainless more like 140. Don't dismiss carrots as no good because of the sportwhingers.
Go for it - Bolting on lead rocks. though you may have to use a few tricks and maybe some aid as
well. Might be best to get up it anywhichway then return for the free ascent- or pitch by pitch
I bought an 18v hammer drill with 2 batteries for 40 bucks at an auction - it works fine for small holes.
Make sure your belays are bomber - 12mm dyna or 10mm trubolt - no skimping, at least one good bolt
plus gear or two bolts. That way everything else can pretty much blow but you will be relatively ok
(compared to a dodgy belay) Get a few pitons (blades, arrows and angles) as well as hooks and bird
beaks, try them out before heading off though. Use as much gear as possible - bolts as a last resort.

It's a big multipitch remote wall, right? Set your own rules and don't worry about it too much.
Get a 6, 8, 10, and 12 mm drill bit also.
6mm drills really fast onehanded with a drill and take birdbeaks at 5-10mm depth 40mm deep for
hammerdrives with swaged loop or slightly longer for dynas or 50mm for mini-carrots for aid
8mm is workable for dyna on easy ground or for rope redirects etc or for aiding pro.
10mm is probably best for general climbing on though if you expect any major falls.
12mm is kinda overkill unless it is DogFace style choss (I once drilled an 8mm hole for a 10 mm
carrot that came out by hand Put in a 10mm dyna tightened it up pulled it out as well hammered in a
12mm dyna tightened it up no pulling and decided to search for better rock - 12's can be handy.)

For sport routes use gear and aid to get to the top drill an anchor than redo the lot. Far better than rap
bolting as you actually get a feel for the climbing. Done a few routes like that.

Simey - I agree wholeheartedly 'I think I would rather repeat a route that someone has bolted on lead.
The number of times people stuff up rap-bolting is unbelievable.' And unforgivable as well.

Cheers All
Wallie- message me off-forum if you wish to discuss it further, or need a partner;-}

IdratherbeclimbingM9
15/05/2007
1:21:17 PM
Noticed you were chasing down a hand-drill on another thread at about the same time as this thread.
So how did it go with your 'hypothetical' route wallwombat ?

rodw
Online Now
15/05/2007
1:34:55 PM
He was beaten back by a small docile nests of wasps...talk about soft, typical trad/aid climber :)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
15/05/2007
2:02:22 PM
Yeah. He should have taken a powerdrill, rings and an apiarists bee-suit to fit right in!; ... unless there is some new protection available called 'wasps'?, that he could stack like pins to make a nest of pro ...
Heh, heh, heh.
rod
15/05/2007
4:28:12 PM
equipping ground up on lead is the path to enlightenment.

mousey
15/05/2007
5:55:07 PM

>smaller dynabolts arn't really suitable at all due to the soft NSW rock.

thats a bit of generalisation neilo!!

nmonteith
15/05/2007
6:03:20 PM
ohh yes, i meant soft Blue Mountains rock!

wallwombat
15/05/2007
9:51:33 PM
I haven't made it to my 'hypothetical route' yet. Haven't come across anyone made of the appropriate metal to take along. Too many fru-fru sport climbers !

And , no, RodW. That line with the bloody wasps on it is a mere boulder problem in comparison to ' my hypothetical line' . I wouldn't stick a bolt on that. Just run it out. The pro is good enough. That 1/2 friend easily caught that 20 ft fall I took. Think it spooked Hatman a bit, though!

My hypotheical line is safe. The walk in is too long for the sport climbing , drill carrying brigade. It's days are numbered, though!
mikepatt
16/05/2007
10:27:58 AM
Hi Wallwombie,

Considering that your crag is a 5 hour walk in I don't think you'll be giving too much away by disclosing the location.
I'm guessing Southern Highlands/Morton National Park.
You may be suprised to find that your 'secret crag' probably had a first ascent 30 years ago when long walk ins and multi pitch ground ups were much more in vogue.
I you do need to bolt then I'd suggest the hand drill. I've seen bolts placed on lead in under ten minutes on sandstone. The 5 hour walk in is virtually gaurenteed to make your first ascent probably the only ascent.


nmonteith
16/05/2007
10:40:17 AM
Im struggling to think of anywhere in the East Coast of Australia that requires a 5 hour walk-in?!! Wouldn't
that be 10km+ from a road (do we have any wilderness that big these days?)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
16/05/2007
10:48:10 AM
On 16/05/2007 nmonteith wrote:
>Im struggling to think of anywhere in the East Coast of Australia that
>requires a 5 hour walk-in?!! Wouldn't that be 10km+ from a road (do we have any wilderness that big these days?)

I reckon mikepatt is on the money with his
>I'm guessing Southern Highlands/Morton National Park.

... as well as his history lesson re
>You may be suprised to find that your 'secret crag' probably had a first ascent 30 years ago when long walk ins and multi pitch ground ups were much more in vogue.

... there is still plenty of scope for more routes of similar nature there though.
mikl law
16/05/2007
12:16:24 PM
On 19/03/2007 nmonteith wrote:
>12mm x 70mm dynabolts are fine for most sandstone.
>
>People placed tiny rubbish carrots for a reason, the time needed to handrill
>the holes was shorter.
>A hole for a 12mm dyna could take up to half an hour to hand-drill.

One point to note is that people in Victoria mean the gramps when they say "sandstone", where dynabolts are ok and carrots are crap.
In NSW "sandstone" means Blue Mtns, where dynabolts are crap and carrots are ok

Macciza
16/05/2007
3:53:14 PM
On 16/05/2007 mikl law wrote:
>
>One point to note is that people in Victoria mean the gramps when they
>say "sandstone", where dynabolts are ok and carrots are crap.
>In NSW "sandstone" means Blue Mtns, where dynabolts are crap and carrots
>are ok

Yeah I think they take the whole 'stone' thing far more seriously down there and forget all about the 'sand'
part of it, oh well - what if you bolt on the border? Then what? . . .

wombly
16/05/2007
3:57:39 PM
>Yeah I think they take the whole 'stone' thing far more seriously down there and forget all about >the 'sand' part of it, oh well - what if you bolt on the border? Then what? . . .

for the most part of it ye be swimming!

wallwombat
16/05/2007
11:38:47 PM
On 16/05/2007 nmonteith wrote:
>Im struggling to think of anywhere in the East Coast of Australia that
>requires a 5 hour walk-in?!! Wouldn't that be 10km+ from a road (do we have any wilderness that big these days?)

I reckon mikepatt is on the money with his
>I'm guessing Southern Highlands/Morton National Park.

... as well as his history lesson re
>You may be suprised to find that your 'secret crag' probably had a first ascent 30 years ago when long walk ins and multi pitch ground ups were much more in vogue.


Close, but no banana.

I know you got around a bit down there, Rod, but I bet you didn't get where I've got in mind.

I'm almost 40 and I grew up in the area. I do believe I know of some spots that haven't been climbed at yet.

rodw
Online Now
17/05/2007
7:49:27 AM
If it more than 5minutes from the car...I just aint interested...walkings for nerds.

 Page 2 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 89
There are 89 messages in this topic.

 

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