Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author

ben cairn history - anyone know this???


Kingerz

7-Nov-2006
9:09:33 PM

seems amazing that a hoax route would be in the guides so long - quite funny though! Looked for the bolt yesterday but not there i think.

2-Feb-2009
10:50:31 AM

On 29/10/2006 sking wrote:
>... at the time of the Musk, Hashish and Blood attempts and eventual hoax.” Greg Pritchard.
>There is no indication of what this 'hoax' is or was...anyone know?
On 1/11/2006 GTempest wrote:
>Hmmm, a little iddy biddy bolt (hidden in the moss) just left of the WHOPPER
>on Skating Away? And for what? A couple of extra metres of what is pretty
>much exactly the same climbing.
On 2/11/2006 sking wrote:
>Could not see the bolt to the left at all. Would seem pointless.
>... untraceable weirdness that would go left into moss just to finish in a bush!

Musk Hashish and Blood has had about 90% of the moss removed by a good samaritan, so we TRed it yesterday. It shares the cracks of Skating Away then steps left as soon as you're on the slab (2-3m before the bolt on Skating Away). the independent top half is good slab climbing and well clear of the Skating Away slab. And the moves are actually quite different to Skating Away. steeper slab moves between two faint dykes, very cool. The bushes are a non-issue, it's all over by there and there's a gap which is easy to go through. Plus it's nice to have an excuse to redo the beautiful cracks in the bottom half of Skating Away. So, MH&B definitely adds to the crag and I'd encourage others to continue the cleaning to properly salvage this totally worthwhile line (it's not quite in condition for leading yet IMO). The bolt is in the right spot, it would not be as freaky to clip as the bolt on Skating Away - but it now has a healthy coating of rust so may be in need of replacement.

There's some discontinuous cracks & seams (completely mossed over) on the bulge 2-3m L of the cracks of Skating Away, under the MH&B bolt. the hoax may relate to whether or not these cracks were ever climbed - they look bloody hard (even if clean). would be a great line if they did go though!

On 1/11/2006 GTempest wrote:
> Which brings me to another point. The bolt
>on Skating Away. Is it the same mild steel bolt I angle grinded to the
>shithouse and over hammered (using a held star drill and small sledge
>hammer) probably 25 years ago?
On 2/11/2006 mikl law wrote:
>had a bit of a slabpiphany at THE bolt. Got up it quickly but realised that slab 21 = somewhere between18 and 25 depending on what you've been climbing lately.

a certain relapsed Mexican had a very rapid downwards slabpiphany for about 7m past that over-ground and over-hammered bolt yesterday. it held, and the compulsory dodgy looped wire didn't fall off ... this time. can someone explain the sense in letting such time bombs keep ticking?

all the usual trade routes are in pretty good condition at the moment. can everyone please remember to take their brushes and do their bit to keep it that way

Anyone got some good beta for the crux bulge of Fiction? such a good route, if only I could do that move :( if we'd not been trying it at 2pm in blazing sun i guess that might have helped. we might look at replacing the old rusty carrots too (if we can suss the moves).


IdratherbeclimbingM9

2-Feb-2009
11:34:21 AM

WM wrote;
>(it's not quite in condition for leading yet IMO).

You have obviously become used to the clean rock at Taipan etc, as I remember a similar comment made about classic lines on the Nth Wall of Buff ...

>can someone explain the sense in letting such time bombs keep ticking?

You already answered your Q? with
>it held, and the compulsory dodgy looped wire didn't fall off
?

>remember to take their brushes and do their bit to keep it that way

... or use chalk?

Hmm, is there an ethical issue here??
Shades of this post (and the rest of that thread); ... but ~> it would inhibit the veg regrowth?

:-P
Heh x 3!

2-Feb-2009
11:55:33 AM

On 2/02/2009 WM wrote:
>a certain relapsed Mexican had a very rapid downwards slabpiphany for
>about 7m past that over-ground and over-hammered bolt yesterday. it held,
>and the compulsory dodgy looped wire didn't fall off ... this time. can
>someone explain the sense in letting such time bombs keep ticking?

Slab climbing is for losers.

mikl law

2-Feb-2009
12:13:08 PM

On 2/02/2009 WM wrote:
>Anyone got some good beta for the crux bulge of Fiction?
Tight stiff boots

hero

2-Feb-2009
3:19:32 PM

I know Greg Pritchard and I remember him telling me that he brushed Musk, Hashish and Blood and couldn't do it, so he claimed it under the name of Andrew Black (alluding to his Angel Black persona). The first ascent was probably Mark Colyvan and Greg. Hoax one.

Rum, Sodomy and the Lash, the supposed traverse of the wall, attributed to Ian Anger, was never actually climbed. Hoax 2.

You'd have to ask Mikl about the veracity of his claims on the cliff. he he


Zebedee

2-Feb-2009
11:37:08 PM

On 2/02/2009 hero wrote:
>I know Greg Pritchard ....
In the biblical sense, cause I think we've all been there!

mikl law

3-Feb-2009
12:59:22 PM

On 2/02/2009 hero wrote:
>
>You'd have to ask Mikl about the veracity of his claims on the cliff.
>he he

Free white and 21 was never 21, but has probaly been reclaimed by the moss
I don't remember Gnipples at all, did I put it up, is it worthless?
Rent-a-doddle is real hard, I'd love to hear of a repeat
I Can't Breath Either was a one move wonder
I looked at (for )Popular Hits & Pakenham Upper last tiem i was there before having an epic on My brilliant Career

There are 28 messages in this topic.