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General Climbing Discussion

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Cordalettes


jens

24-Mar-2004
5:52:50 PM

If your pieces aren't long enough, why not tie two lengths together? So you have four instead of two tripple-fishermans knots! Does this matter?


IdratherbeclimbingM9

24-Mar-2004
5:56:28 PM

On 24/03/2004 gfdonc wrote:
>Relaced all my chocks recently, and tried to get some 'new' 7mm cord through but
>it would not fit.
>So it now has 6mm. Is this good enough? Should I use Spectra instead?

My faithful #3 hex is wired and rated at 10 kN which is the same strength as a #6 (& larger) Stopper.
I would suggest looking up the rated strength of your 6mm cord and comparing it.
(Note: Mammut 6mm cord is rated at 7.2 kN).
Small wired Stoppers are rated 2 kN to 6 kN, but they don't inspire heaps of confidence if you are facing a good whipper.
Everything else (quickdraws, krabs etc) in most systems is rated at 20 kN or better.

Spectra, Gemini etc type cords are incredibly strong, lightweight, water & abrasion resistant, but can have low melting point properties.
I swapped for the strength factor.

If you don't switch to spectra, just treat your #3 hex like the smaller sized Stoppers and climb/protect accordingly.

In my experience I have 'found' #4 RP's with busted wires, ... so falls of that severity can/do happen.

James

25-Mar-2004
9:30:27 AM

it can be scary if you actually read the ratings of small wires, but then I think back to belaying a mate who fell 8-9m onto a #3 RP which held fine

PS: there are people round who will put new sewn slings on cams (properly rated etc), so you don't even need to worry about cord & knots etc


fruityarse

26-Mar-2004
5:05:29 PM

James I assume your mate was on the lighter side?

Bomber as a placement may be I have trouble seeing a #3 RP saving my gravity challenged fat butt....rather not try and learn!!!!!!


Rich

26-Mar-2004
5:15:24 PM

i fell 5m off soweto onto a no.3 rp.. weighing in at a hefty 62kg ;-) lil heavier now unfortunately :( too many sausage and egg mc muffins

26-Mar-2004
9:24:06 PM

I seem to recall that it was not a bomber piece either Rich.

James

27-Mar-2004
9:59:23 AM

>James I assume your mate was on the lighter side?

~70kg, so average weight I guess. If you want to learn to place really good bomber wires, just go climbing with him.

gfdonc

29-Mar-2004
12:53:14 PM

Back onto the main topic of this thread, used a cordalette for the first time for lotsa pitches on the weekend (12) and I'm definitely a convert.
Using a piece of 8/9mm that I bought for running toprope anchors, works fine. Easier than trying to tie off the main rope and you can't beat the ease of equalising.
- Steve

There are 48 messages in this topic.