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24-Mar-2004 5:52:50 PM
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If your pieces aren't long enough, why not tie two lengths together? So you have four instead of two tripple-fishermans knots! Does this matter?
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24-Mar-2004 5:56:28 PM
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On 24/03/2004 gfdonc wrote:
>Relaced all my chocks recently, and tried to get some 'new' 7mm cord through but
>it would not fit.
>So it now has 6mm. Is this good enough? Should I use Spectra instead?
My faithful #3 hex is wired and rated at 10 kN which is the same strength as a #6 (& larger) Stopper.
I would suggest looking up the rated strength of your 6mm cord and comparing it.
(Note: Mammut 6mm cord is rated at 7.2 kN).
Small wired Stoppers are rated 2 kN to 6 kN, but they don't inspire heaps of confidence if you are facing a good whipper.
Everything else (quickdraws, krabs etc) in most systems is rated at 20 kN or better.
Spectra, Gemini etc type cords are incredibly strong, lightweight, water & abrasion resistant, but can have low melting point properties.
I swapped for the strength factor.
If you don't switch to spectra, just treat your #3 hex like the smaller sized Stoppers and climb/protect accordingly.
In my experience I have 'found' #4 RP's with busted wires, ... so falls of that severity can/do happen.
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25-Mar-2004 9:30:27 AM
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it can be scary if you actually read the ratings of small wires, but then I think back to belaying a mate who fell 8-9m onto a #3 RP which held fine
PS: there are people round who will put new sewn slings on cams (properly rated etc), so you don't even need to worry about cord & knots etc
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26-Mar-2004 5:05:29 PM
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James I assume your mate was on the lighter side?
Bomber as a placement may be I have trouble seeing a #3 RP saving my gravity challenged fat butt....rather not try and learn!!!!!!
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26-Mar-2004 5:15:24 PM
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i fell 5m off soweto onto a no.3 rp.. weighing in at a hefty 62kg ;-) lil heavier now unfortunately :( too many sausage and egg mc muffins
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26-Mar-2004 9:24:06 PM
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I seem to recall that it was not a bomber piece either Rich.
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27-Mar-2004 9:59:23 AM
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>James I assume your mate was on the lighter side?
~70kg, so average weight I guess. If you want to learn to place really good bomber wires, just go climbing with him.
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29-Mar-2004 12:53:14 PM
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Back onto the main topic of this thread, used a cordalette for the first time for lotsa pitches on the weekend (12) and I'm definitely a convert.
Using a piece of 8/9mm that I bought for running toprope anchors, works fine. Easier than trying to tie off the main rope and you can't beat the ease of equalising.
- Steve
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