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Climbing as a group of three ... how best to do it

AntiPrincess

2-Aug-2006
5:52:00 PM

I don't think either of the suggested techniques are complicated! Trying any new system for the first time
may seem "complicated", and anything you have been doing for years may seem "simple", regardless of
the objective truth. I'd guess that the Rock article was aimed at people who had already mastered efficient
anchor set-up and changeover times. In this case it's surely indisputable that having a system which
allows the two seconders to climb simultaneously will be significantly faster. The importance of speed in
an alpine situation is self-evident, but speed is still an advantage for "everyday cragging", if you are trying
to fit several routes into your day.

rod

3-Aug-2006
4:15:25 PM

threesome or twosome i use a reverso in autolock mode with a resultant requirement for double ropes of minimum diameter 8.5mm. using ropes much thicker than 9.5 gets heavy for the lead on longer than 25m pitches. the seconders climb together about 5m apart, both unclipping their own rope alone as they progress. if you need to pay out some rope you simply have to hold both ropes, pull on the blocking carabiner and pay out. those situations are rare. with threesomes i've found not changing leads quicker, easiest if you loop your ropes in the reverse order (ie small loops getting bigger) to minimise tangle problems.

One day hero

4-Aug-2006
5:26:58 PM

.......or the second who will lead the next pitch grabs the other second's rope. As these ends are on top, leading off goes smoothly. Then the first leader gives one of their ropes to the person who seconds both pitches.

-deano-

6-Aug-2006
7:46:46 PM

for three people, i've always liked leading on doubles and bringing up the seconds a few metres apart. (one at a time if tricky climbing). if easy climbing, but wandering climb, i might get the 'third' to start only after i can see the 'second'. it would all depend in how confident you are in the respective ability of your partners.

having said that, belaying two compentent climbers simultaneously is often hard work! perhaps an auto-blocking belay device (eg reverso, b52) would be good there? i would be sure there is minimal chance that you would have to lower-off a second in this case.

one day hero, that's a really cool idea. i've never been able to use it (un)fortunately. i usually get the second to start flaking the rope from their end as soon as they are up and clipped into the anchor. by the time the third is up, they are done and one rope is ready to go.

tastybigmac

9-Aug-2006
12:43:30 PM

like everything, groups of three can be a lot more fun and rewarding. sure you have problems of tangles and sometimes there are space issues, but once you work out a good technique for your group then it becomes much more efficient. sure it might take longer but speed isn't everything. just enjoy the sights while waiting for your turn.


BigMike

9-Aug-2006
12:46:39 PM

NEVER CLIMB IN A THREE!!!

Hands up all those climbers who've been driven insane on a multipitch by some bloody group of three who are fartsing around up ahead ... ?


Super Saiyan

9-Aug-2006
2:04:35 PM

you could do what we did- climbed The Bard with 4 people. Not as 2 teams of 2 as would be logical, but with 4 people on two ropes. Which meant leaving the 4th person sitting on a ledge, and throwing a rope back down to them so they could follow unprotected lol

dont ask us why we ended up that way... we were all strong leaders, climbing well above grade 12.. massive FUBAR... those were the days! lol

nico

16-Aug-2006
12:31:25 PM

Two single ropes, a sticht plate for each climber, or bettabrake, with two holes. Put the least experienced in the middle, so they are protected from both sides if there is a traverse. Let the middle person do the belaying, so they can practice under supervision, both belaying the leader and bringing up the 'third'. If the middle person wants to lead, they can either use both ropes, or just trail one of them.

The one thing that an inexperienced 'middle' always forgets is to unclip from protection (above) and clip into protection (below). So when they try to climb past the pro without unclipping, they come to a dead halt and wonder why ...

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