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General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 72
Naming rights on FAs (aka The Law of Ming)
1:45:55 PM
On 10/07/2006 Boardlord wrote:
>Take for instance (for one example) Pegasus
>down on Lower Taipan.

Pegasus is still an excellent aid route! I have done it as have two other mates at seperate times.
It is quite techincal in places especially skyhooking off the glued on edge.

1:48:00 PM
On 10/07/2006 drdeviousii wrote:
>Pegasus is still an excellent aid route! I have done it as have two other
>mates at seperate times.
>It is quite techincal in places especially skyhooking off the glued on

Ha ha! That glued on edge is a classic. Good ol dodgy Pollit ethics once again. At least hes given up
climbing these days...

4:11:09 PM
So lets get this straight top roping is not free climbing. Dam there goes more than half the routes I thought I'd climbed. If some body top ropes a route onsight because they felt it was not ethically right to bolt it they can't say they climbed it first even though they did. Then some ecological dimwit can come along and bolt the f--- out of it and be the first to climb it even though they dogged it into submission and weren't the first to climb it. Sounds good to me (NOT).

4:16:26 PM
Nevertheless, that's about the long and short of it.
4:27:28 PM
On 10/07/2006 Zebedee wrote: "..."

Though not eloquent, it is accurate.
4:43:25 PM
Get your hand of it Boardlord!

This is just too stupifying to even muster a response.
5:51:59 PM
On 10/07/2006 SirOinksALot wrote:
>Get your hand of it Boardlord!
>This is just too stupifying to even muster a response.

What? Topropes as first ascents? No shit! Nevertheless, you seemed to have mustered at least 10 whole words - so congratulations! My mission is complete...
6:03:46 PM
Should that be the law of Minge?
6:23:22 PM
Steve Monks tried unsuccessfully to rename 7th banana when he freed it...

Reality 1 Ming 0

No Bolts Please just left of Soweto is an excellent toprope route. It's very worthwhile just the way it is - as good as Soweto IMO. Nothing wrong with it being written up how it if it does get lead free it's a name (and warning) worth keeping.

Reality 2 Ming 0
8:14:47 PM
When I freed Stress Fracture at Stapylton I renamed it largely to try to get a rise from one of the seconds who claimed to have seconded it free (as the single aid point was a rest on a route with difficult gear this was no great achievement). My renaming was studiously and correctly ignored. The first ascent was a good lead by Wayne who isn't disposed to siege things.
If you think someone has written up something that should still be a project by all means give it a new name when you do it. Common usage will decide which name sticks.
8:35:36 PM
On 10/07/2006 hero wrote:
>Should that be the law of Minge?

Only if you're a disciple of 'Flesh Gordon' - in which case - the truth has been revealed...

On 10/07/2006 WM wrote:
>Steve Monks tried unsuccessfully to rename 7th banana when he freed it...
>Reality 1 Ming 0
>No Bolts Please just left of Soweto is an excellent toprope route. Nothing wrong
>with it being written up how it if it does get lead free it's
>a name (and warning) worth keeping.
>Reality 2 Ming 0

but if you really are taking the original meaning of this thread completely seriously (like SirOinks) - then the score is back to Reality 0 Ming 23 - as I said - mission accomplished. At the end of the day - we do what we like over here in Mongo land!

Chuck Norris
8:42:33 PM
On 10/07/2006 kieranl wrote:
>Common usage will decide
>which name sticks.

well said - if you free something and wanna rename it go for it, sometimes it sticks sometimes it
don't...what sticks will generally have some justice about it, whether it be the better name or the most
visionary ascent or who has the most mates.

oh I almost forgot - does the rock care?
8:51:18 PM
On 10/07/2006 stugang wrote:
>oh I almost forgot - does the rock care?
...only if you chip it.
Welcome back ex-ruler of Mongo. We were wondering when you'd turn up. Please be advised that your presence is required at this years Froctoberfest - you know the place and time...

11:14:27 PM
On 10/07/2006 Boardlord wrote:
>Anyone opposing the Law of Ming should make their thoughts known by way
>of this topic - then prepare to have your house attacked by hot hail. The
>Law of Ming has spoken...

I've checked the weather forecast - only light showers this week...

You’ve raised a few interesting points. However, I can't say I agree with you. If the fist “ascent” of a route was done on top rope (for whatever reason – first ascentionist being too poor/weak to bolt it, not enough natural pro, etc) and someone’s come along and soloed it why should it give that person the right to rename it? Why is bolting a route more valid than top-roping it? Obviously if it can be soloed there is no point putting bolts in and damaging the rock. Anyway if something’s 8m high is it even a route or just a highball? Bouldering mats have improved in the past 15 years which probably makes it possible to solo some of these routes previously done on TR. And since we're talking about style - how many of these solos were done onsight?

What’s in a name? People often don’t even remember the names of climbs they’ve done and refer to them as that “grade 18 thin crack” or “grade 14 corner” or even “grade 11 pile of choss”. Sure some names are funny or quirky, but I think most climbs are named so that people actually know what route they’re on. Some climbs in the Adelaide Hills guide which were done on top-rope, probably haven’t even been repeated because they’re crap – what would be the point of leading them? I just find the whole idea of route ownership strange. The rock was there millions of years before you were born and it will be there for millions of years after you die – unless you stick useless bolts in it just so that you can say you were the first person to lead it. I do agree with you however, that naming open projects is a bit silly.

10:16:31 AM

These Adelaide solo routes look mega-classic Steve!
[Rob topping out on Nev (16) solo (note the spotter!) Pic by Craig Ingram]
10:24:07 AM
On 11/07/2006 nmonteith wrote:
>(note the spotter!)

I certainly did! That guy is sexy - wow!
10:32:43 AM
If the person has a spotter it instantly changes the ascent from a solo to a highball boulder problem - grading should be V/font grading and new name stands.

Toprope was merely a preinspection for the first ascent of the boulder problem (frowned upon in most bouldering circles but a tool sometimes used...)

10:37:00 AM
after 2 metres, the "You're on your own" call was made. Some of the topouts were a little scary , not to mention the bushwalkers taking photos and making comments as you are trying to mantle the grass tufts!
11:08:01 AM
Interesting use of the Flickr site Neil. Don't get too excited though - they aren't 'mega classic' - but they are all good fun. Yeah dalai - they were all done ground up onsight with spotters and mats - so they are highball boulder problems (8 metres). The arete however was done last year with no spotter (apart from a small lizard) above a rucksack - but after a quick abseil inspection and brush - so what are you classifying that as?

11:09:33 AM
Spotting on the top of those routes/problems was more for moral support than for any actual belief that it was gonna stop anyone from hurting themselves! Spotting a 90+kg climber from 8m below, well I was planing to run for cover if ronny or Beefy bailed from the top. And the topouts did suck!

You can see that spotter is handsome but you can tell from the camera angle the photographer is HOT!

We did give most of the problems a V grade as well as the route grade.

Most importantly did we have fun? Well the cheese was fantastic!

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There are 72 messages in this topic.


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