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General Climbing Discussion

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What goes through you mind while on the sharp end?

Dalai

5-Sep-2003
2:54:49 PM

If I haven't been on the sharp end for a while, I pick a safe climb (steep) and take a couple of 8 to 10 metre falls. Once done, this allows me to concentrate on the moves and not on falling. Hence being able to relax if I do happen to fall.

Many times I have intentially jumped off climbs I have been working on. Especially those where there is a clip you would waste too much time and energy clipping and therefore will skip on the ascent. To ease any concerns of the potential fall, I have skipped as per the ascent beta and jumped. I have never worried about the runout on those climbs after I have done this.
(disclaimer - this has only ever been done on steep routes where all you fall into is space)


IdratherbeclimbingM9

5-Sep-2003
4:00:43 PM

On 5/09/2003 Dalai wrote:
>If I haven't been on the sharp end for a while, I pick a safe climb (steep)
>and take a couple of 8 to 10 metre falls.

Remind me never to buy/borrow/loan a used rope from/to you!
:)

(PS I don't buy old ropes anyway!)

kieranl

5-Sep-2003
10:19:54 PM

Most of this post seems relevant to people who are on protected routes.
If you are leading Blyth Street direct start, the first pitch of Take Five, the first pitch of Calabrese or the second pitch of Pumping then you would want to be looking at options that excluded falling off.


Rich

8-Sep-2003
10:08:02 AM

yea did that blyth st direct start a while back.. i know what u mean kieran, just a lil unprotected to put it mildly

dodgy

8-Sep-2003
11:33:04 AM

I hope we see more of the R and X ratings as used in the US.
Basically "poor pro" = R, and "no pro" = X. I notice the new Blueys guide has a graphical representation scheme (skull and crossbones) used similarly.


Rupert

8-Sep-2003
2:31:04 PM

I was just thinking sure the skull and crossbones icons are good at drawing your attention to 'death routes' but isn't there a concern that using them draws the focus away from the other routes in the guide and could potentially give some subtle impression the others are 'safe'?

kieranl

8-Sep-2003
8:06:50 PM

I'm not so sure about the R and X ratings. I think that they will fall foul of the same problem that the Ewbank system has. People will over or under state the seriousness of the climb. Sometimes this be a result of playing games with their peer-group but often it will be subjective judgement. Still, it's good to discuss it; even if it doesn't catch on it might encourage people to be more accurate when judging the seriousness of their climbs.
To get back to the original topic, if you're heading out there and not sure where the next runner or rest is, think about how you might back off the last few moves. Descending is often much easier than climbing (you're going with gravity after all!). Learning how to downclimb is a very important skill. If you've stuck your neck out more than you're comfortable with then you can get back.
Like any other climbing skill this has to be practised. You can do it in a gym on top-rope. Climb a route and then downclimb it rather than lowering off. If you're wasted on a well-protected route, rather than slumping on the gear try to down-climb the last few moves. You will be amazed at what you can do with the aid of gravity.
You have to educate yourself to see down-climbing as an option. It's not a natural response.


shiltz

8-Sep-2003
8:37:04 PM

Downclimbing is really worthwhile. Even when a route is not that run out you can often use your downclimbing skills to save the on-site. I regularly climb myself into a corner by misreading the sequence. Faced with a desperation dyno to get back on track or a quick retreat to the last rest to reconsider I almost always go for the latter. Can't imagine lead climbing without knowing how to down climb.

Peter

9-Sep-2003
1:43:56 AM

Kieran, you will be glad to know I couldnt take the fall, I down climbed again. I have been told by many that if I wont take a fall, I wont push myself to the limit, at 40 though, my limit extends as far as not injuring myself so I can climb another day.
(sorry for the delay, went climbing)

Peter

9-Sep-2003
1:50:07 AM

Thanks to the rest of the guys (like A5) who replied also

kieranl

9-Sep-2003
10:11:53 PM

Peter, as long as you lived to fight another day!

There are 51 messages in this topic.