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Climbing Destinations in Europe?

spicelab

19-Oct-2005
10:01:53 AM

I'd add Misja Pec (Osp) in Slovenia to this list. Having spent 3 months in Europe climbing last year in France, Italy and Spain, this place rated behind only Font and Ceuse IMHO.

It's also a great place to camp with a really cruisey, friendly atmosphere and the nearby town of Koper is great to hang out in on rest days.

Onsight

19-Oct-2005
2:34:03 PM

IMO... Spain: I didn't think much of El Chorro, it has had its day. Riglos is wild if you're looking for some long multi-pitching (Fiesta de Los Bieceps is the ultra classic). Rodellar is popular though no I'm not so sure why. Monsant is top of my list for next time. Montserrat is massive, seems an interesting place to spend more time but not totally convenient. So so many different areas in Spain, particularly in the north.

France: Yes, Ceuse. I also like Gorge du Tarn for some reason (pleasant). Verdon is a must. Buoux is old school and polished but less crowded these days and maybe still worth the visit, I’d certainly put that much higher on my list than the many smaller crags which are just like everywhere else. Do lotsa research. Font, it’s a long way to go for bouldering but whatever floats your boat.

Switzerland: what Eduardo said, spend some time here. Italy: Dolomites. Arco, hmmmm, yeah you might be able to find something worthwhile that not too polished. In Germany (virtually? in Austria), near Bertesgarden, Goll (aka Enstall) is a well kept secret good for summer sport in mid 20’s. If you’re going to Greece then Kalymnos Island is all the rage, and if you’re passing by I’d check out Metorea with the huge colglomerate domes with the monasteries on top (remember that Bond film…). Osp does sound good. UK, Pembroke, and um.. gosh, is that the time…


Eduardo Slabofvic

19-Oct-2005
4:50:55 PM

On 18/10/2005 Stuck in UK wrote:
>You obviously hadn't heard that the U.K. is actually part of Europe (although
>there are a still a few old fogeys who think otherwise.) This has been
>true for as long as humans have lived in Europe. Officially endorsed when
>the UK joined the EEC in 1974.

I am aware of England’s geographic proximity to Europe, but the way the European Union keeps expanding, it won’t be long before East Timor is admitted, so EU membership is not a compelling argument, in my opinion.

As this thread is about climbing destinations in Europe, we are providing advice to someone who is going to sending their money on travel, and the last lot of people who travelled to England with any sort of enthusiasm were the Luftwaffer.

The characteristics that make a climbing trip worth while, such as quality of rock, quality of food stuffs, weather, indigenous culture, and local brews are all far superior on the other side of the channel than on your loathsome putrescent island.

If you need any further convincing not to go to England then ask yourself why do they (the POMs) all want to leave?

julian.A

19-Oct-2005
6:35:23 PM

OSP, - In Slovenia, near Trieste, Italy. Fantastic.
There are also a bunch of crags just south of Osp, in Croatia.

Morocco - The Todra Gorge is quite good. There are some hotels in the gorge you can stay in that are cheap.


The Good Dr

19-Oct-2005
6:36:16 PM

As mentioned, go to Switzerland!!!

Eduardo is right, surely Engelhorner is one of the best. Silberfinger (6b+) is an absolute humdinger - 7 pitches of immaculate mountain limestone, sportingly bolted. You can bivvy on the moraine or stay in the hut (meals, beer at the end of the day etc etc). Also do the Kingspitze (6a, but 19 pitches and a very long day).

For small crags head up to the Basel Jura in N Switzerland.

As for spain, Montserrat is awesome, and do something on the Penon d'fach in Calpe. Montenejos is obscure (for foreigners), extensive, but really great (walk up the valley and do La Belle Epoque - 3 pitches 6a+).

All the other classics mentioned (Verdon, Finale, Ceuse, El Chorro, Font etc) are excellent and worth spending time at. Don't avoid the more obscure crags though, some are absolutely brilliant.

Have a great time

maxdacat

19-Oct-2005
8:29:32 PM

On 19/10/2005 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>The characteristics that make a climbing trip worth while, such as quality
>of rock, quality of food stuffs, weather, indigenous culture, and local
>brews are all far superior on the other side of the channel than on your
>loathsome putrescent island.
>

at least in england they know how to make a decent breakfast! now that makes for a good day's climbing!


Eduardo Slabofvic

20-Oct-2005
10:59:54 AM

On 19/10/2005 The Good Dr wrote:
Silberfinger >(6b+) is an absolute humdinger - 7 pitches of immaculate mountain limestone,
>sportingly bolted. You can bivvy on the moraine or stay in the hut (meals,
>beer at the end of the day etc etc). Also do the Kingspitze (6a, but 19
>pitches and a very long day).

There's nothing like downing a litre of beer before staggering back down the mountain to the car. God damn the Euro Alps are good.


Romfrantic

20-Oct-2005
8:52:02 PM

On 20/10/2005 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>....God damn the Euro Alps are good.

Amen to that...


stephan

20-Oct-2005
10:08:51 PM

switzerland: check out this!
piz badile, cassin route, bergell.
this is an must!!
to see it go to: petzl http://www.petzl.com/petzl/frontoffice/Sport/static/explorations/index_en.jsp
and then click on it.

Blah

21-Oct-2005
10:04:55 AM

I found Maijorca was great. Went there in winter and went swimming after climbing on the seacliffs there. (Not at all like the dodge rock we get near the sea in nsw). It is Limestone, not polished as there is not too much traffic, people are friendly, just stess you are not English.... and no England is not part of Europe, the don't see themselves as such, don't share a currency, ideologies, weather, landmass, anything really. Last time England and Europe met was in 1066. Plus most of Europe don't want the English and their dodgy soccer rules such as throwing beerbottles at the opposing team. Oops, back to the topic... as I was saying M s great, and you can do some insane canyoning on the rest days. One canyon has as its last abseil a waterfall into the sea out of a tiny keyhole. Fantastic! Acro in Italy is great. The dolomites are truely beautiful, and there is a good mix of sport and trad (do you like scaring yourself? Not my cup of tea, but itis all there if you want it, the rock isn't the world's most stable when it comes to gear...) Ah, just go to the train station and catch the next train to leave, chances are you'll travel to a great climbing spot and random is fun!


Rich

30-Nov-2005
12:54:22 AM

Wow! Finally starting to complile all of these locations.. Thanks for all the tips guys, getting a massive list together. Next task I'm trying to do is get together a bit of quick info on each area and mark them on the map. Then it's just connect the dots :) Gonna be great!


Garrath

30-Nov-2005
9:10:26 AM

A publication titled "Europe Sport Vertical" by Jingo Wobbly Euro-Guides is pretty damn awesome for the planning stage of any Euro climbing adventure. It's more of a guide of where to go climbing. Jampacked full of maps and millions of symbols to explain all sorts of interesting things you need to know about each climbing locale. Also full of lots of glossy photos to inspire.


hangdog

1-Dec-2005
1:10:52 PM

I think have I one of those jingo wobbly books and it is useless. Just a book with maps and dots and no real directions. Bit of a surprise as most euro guides are brilliant.
Having climbed at more than 20 areas all over the country known as europe i agree with most of the areas recommended. Although you will have check how well you are climbing for some areas.
Some of the more popular places that aussies go too are not full of easier climbs. Someone said el chorro has seen its day. I wouldn,t agree with that especially if you haven,t been there before.I loved it. Don,t be afraid to try areas that are not so often seen in the magazines as some of the best climbing i have had has been at places we have never heard of. Just can,t remember the names at work. I have the guide books at home to remind me.
My list
Arco Italy( agree a lot of routes in certain sectors are polished just try the less popular areas and sectors)
El Chorro Spain ( do the walkway thingy and lookout for the trains)
Montserrat Spain (amazing rock and the Monastry is like religion meets Wally World -Chevy Chase version not the route in the bluies!!)
Orpierre France (lots of more doable routes)
Costa Blanca Spain (Sella in particular)
Dolomites Italy (try the via ferrate. lots of fun. like sport mountaineering !)
Finale Italy
Lots of others I can,t remember without the guide books. I will post them when i get home.


Eduardo Slabofvic

1-Dec-2005
5:03:54 PM

I had a book called "Rock Climbing Guide to Europe" by Dave Jones. It is 13 to 14 years old now, but I'm sure the crags are still in the same place. It give very limited information, like direction on how to get there, how many routes in different grades, and when the crag comes into the sun.

It is amazing what was left out of the book, as Switzerland get only 2 pages and then it only really mentions Handeg. Regardless it is a hand reference book to find out how to get to popular sport climbing crags with lots of maps.

Nottobetaken

2-Dec-2005
9:31:30 AM

How about Le Chant du Cygne 7a (24) - put up in '92 by Conrad Anker – a fully bolted sport route on the Eiger North Face. Has mixed terrain of ED3 to get back down, but that shouldn’t be a problem. With El Nino etc I think most of the snow would've melted anyway and you can probably just hike it. Otherwise you could always do a quick beginners course in ice down in Grindelwald before heading off.

The actual route has an ‘obligatory grade’ of 6b+ (22). That means you need to be able to free climb 22 to get from bolt to bolt (if you want to aid it that is) - but you know aid climbing's for the birds - so you probably don't need such info. At 900m long it's the same height as El Cap – but with loads more exposure (about 2 or 3kms of it down into the valley) – with the final 4 or 5 pitches overhanging quite a lot. Check out:

http://www.alpinist.com/climbing-notes/note/10020/

It’s number #24 (orange line) taking the pillar on the right hand side of the North Face.

A friend did it in a day car to car (36 pitches).
Take a helmet, a couple of Mars Bars, and a six pack of Red Bull - you'll be fine.


manacubus

2-Dec-2005
11:40:00 AM

What a chosspile.


Rich

2-Dec-2005
8:28:38 PM

farrk, what a mission. Certainly would be memorable.. also probably pretty damn cold! Not sure if something that epicable is on the cards at this stage but who knows!

There are 37 messages in this topic.