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Would you bring a rope on a Europe road trip?


Eduardo Slabofvic

7-Oct-2005
10:21:34 AM

On 7/10/2005 dr_fil_good wrote:
>So a double 70m system. Sounds goodah. I'm going to miss climbing trad
>:'( I almost feel like dragging my rack along with me just for that sexy
>feeling digging into my shoulders, the cutting of my circulation, the numb
>fingers, the occasional dodgy placement that gets the heart really pumping,
>the wrong choice of hex for a split that gets the arms really pumping,
>the constant jiggling of my shoulders to move the weight around *slight
>exaggeration!!!*

There is heaps of trad climbing to to in Europe, and you don't have to go anywhere near a glacier to get to it. For a good laugh go to Germany and Czech Republic, Elbasandstien (not sure of the correct spelling there), and try your hand at using knots as trad gear. I found it a little disconcerting, but one of those essential climbing experiences as there is a very long history of this style of climbing, and knots for gear is not the only quirky tradition.

There was laso a new guide book that had just been released for new trad routes in the French Alps and High Alps. Trad climbing is currently in vogue with a certain section of French climbers.


LittleJames

7-Oct-2005
11:10:45 AM

On 7/10/2005 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>For a good laugh go to Germany
>and Czech Republic, Elbasandstien (not sure of the correct spelling there),
>and try your hand at using knots as trad gear. I found it a little disconcerting,
>but one of those essential climbing experiences as there is a very long
>history of this style of climbing, and knots for gear is not the only quirky
>tradition.

I read an article about this the other day. Looks frickin spooky, but I have to admit, I'm intrigued. I wonder if it's possible to protect Booroomba granite using only knots...


nmonteith

7-Oct-2005
11:14:40 AM

>On 7/10/2005 rod wrote:
>> so you'll need, 2 slings

>On 7/10/2005 dr_fil_good wrote:
>What for??? Sorry, I'm unfamiliar with the use of slings in sport and
>have racked my brain and can't think of any benefits (prolly 'cause I practically
>never climb sport).

Now you know! They are not for sport climbs but for the funky knot tying antics of the Czech Republic!
No need to bring cams/wires.


Robb

7-Oct-2005
11:20:09 AM

The climbiing in the elbsandstein (sandstone near the elb river) is amazing and a great experience. spent a couple of weeks there a few years ago. the big knots and the bolts are quite bomber depending on the knot placement. the smaler knots and threads can also be good. thoroughly recommended experience. My mate from dresden is actually coming to australia for a 6month road trip in january. great guy -currently had red dreds so you cant miss him.


dr_fil_good

7-Oct-2005
11:56:16 AM

On 7/10/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>
>Now you know!
Know what?
Hmm ... I've just had an epiphony - - the slings are for long runners? I would have through sport climbers would rig their bolts to avoid the need for long runners though ...

>They are not for sport climbs but for the funky knot tying
>antics of the Czech Republic!

Like tying waterknots and alpine butterflies on tape or something? I'm so unedumekated when it comes to all this .. I'm really looking forward to being thrown into the deep end with some foreign mate on the belay saying things to me that I don't understand as I take to the sharp end and start exploring!!!

>No need to bring cams/wires.

Cool - all trad gear stays home!

jmgh

8-Oct-2005
5:29:42 AM

On 7/10/2005 nmonteith wrote

>Now you know! They are not for sport climbs but for the funky knot tying
>antics of the Czech Republic!
>No need to bring cams/wires.

i was in what was then Czechoslavakia in 1982, we arrived a few months after Louise Shepherd and Kim Carrigan had left. A lovely old local lady insisted on inviting us in and giving us a cup of tea. She was proud of the tea,lou and kim had given it to her (some herbal hippy stuff)and she obviously treasured it.The only english sentence she managed was " this is Kim Carrrigans tea" which she repeated often and always with a gleam in her eye. The climbing areas ( we went to Adrspache (sp?) and Teplice) are incredible, truly wondrous landscapes. And the knot thing works really well, i've used it a few times since on limestone.It was really weird racking up with different sized knots. One thing that was lost with the wall coming down was the carpet slippers for climbing shoes, yep tartan slippers like Granny wears. A freind of mine still uses hers on plastic.

. http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.udini.de/gallery/germany/saxony1930bis2005/pages/erst003.htm&prev=/search%3Fq%3DBernd%2BArnold%2Bclimber%26start%3D30%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3DN

i hope that link works. i was looking for Bernd Arnold, a true great of the trad climbing game and this site looked good. the translation is fantastic. Rich, if you can, go to the sandstone towers.


Super Saiyan

8-Oct-2005
9:19:27 AM

there is an article in last month (Septembers i think) Rock n Ice about czech climbing on knots etc.. Think it was called "where the wild things are"

rod

9-Oct-2005
6:41:18 PM

2 slings: belays from trees or rocks on multi pitch routes. You'll regularly find a multi pitch with several lower grade pitches that require a little trad thinking.

Yesterday on a 16 pitcher there were several low grade pitches. On one I'd used 3 slings, 3 cordelettes and even ended up using the ultra elegant bum belay technique with legs spread around a tree. Luckily my girl didn't peel. We did summit on dark though, after stumbling around for a half hour we decided thinking might help...the displays on cheap mobile phones make quite a handy torch.

Rich, I reckon you can rely on partners for some draws. I'm just a little touchy and don't trust other people's gear unless I know the persons habits really well.

Onsight

9-Oct-2005
7:15:12 PM

I visited Teplice–Adršpach last year - to take photos for that Rock and Ice article and some other stuff. One of the most interesting climbing areas I've ever visited. There were some of the boldest (maddest?) climbers I'd ever met. As well as the knotted rope pro, the area is also famous for tower jumping and team support climbing.

This is what your standard knotted rack might look like:

And this guy had what he said was equivalent to a number three Camalot:

I guess you'd call that a Three Camaknot...

More pics here:
http://www.onsight.com.au/gallery/overseas/czech/teplice/index.htm


mousey

9-Oct-2005
11:21:48 PM

feckin hull!! crazy euros!
andhow good does that Bod Zlomu look?!!!!!!!!


Romfrantic

10-Oct-2005
5:16:27 PM

They're not just crazy - in some areas it is the ONLY way you would be allowed to climb!
In some areas (like just out of Dresden in Germany near the Czech border - I forget the name, in a National Park anyway), the sandstone rock outcrops form part of a World Heritage Area with medieval castles and all ....rockclimbing is not allowed with "metallic" natural pro and so you can only climb if you use the above-mentioned/illustrated pro...

climbingjac

11-Oct-2005
9:33:37 AM

Richo you could go thinner than 10mm. I took a 70m rope that was nine point something.

rod

11-Oct-2005
4:49:48 PM

climbing knot pro looks like a good way for neil to get even more value out of his ropes. looking at the rusty rings in the onsight shots, i reckon they're not so crazy.

agree with climbingjaq, i'm on a 70m 9.6m. rich if you're in a bind i've got a semi-retired 60m 10.5mm that you can have which is in reasonable condition.


Rich

12-Oct-2005
8:05:35 PM

hey, hi rod and jac and yeh thanks rod for the offer! .. i do have a 10mm 70m but would definitely go lighter. prob go one of those mammut 9.2s - 55g/m makes it pretty light.

cristian

12-Oct-2005
9:30:47 PM

Hi Rich, how are you.
I'm Italian climber, I'm studying english for 8 months.
If you want come in Italia at freeclimb, I can give to you somethings information for Italy north.

LGJ

18-Mar-2008
11:05:39 PM

I'm in Marseille at the moment - got here a few days ago from Syd. I didn't bring my rope with me so am currently looking for one here.

You should have seen the guys reaction when I told him I was after a 60! Bollocks he said! (in French...). The vibe I got (from 3 stores, I haven't been climbing yet, heading out tomorrow) was that 70s are required for a lot of routes, and are now only just enough, 80s are a lot more 'sensible'.

Can anyone give me any feedback about what length pitches are most often encountered? I would really prefer a 60, as thats what would be better when/if I bring it back to Aus, and its will be that little bit lighter (have got a car, but won't for the whole trip). 80 I can write off straight away - what a joke (a little voice is telling me "you said that about 70s over 60s not so long ago" though...).

dave

18-Mar-2008
11:24:51 PM

Hi LGJ,
Was in marseilles late last year and then climbed at Ceuse, Siurana, El Chorro, etc. (all the usual suspects) and we only had one 60m. It was fine- ok there was the odd route we couldn't do and we only did a few multi-pitches, but we didn't feel limited. All these Euro crags have SO much to offer that it really doesn't matter!
Pm me if you've any other queries!
Good luck!
Dave

Ps. i took a new rope on the trip and it was trashed by the end and i left it behind so dont think too much about bringing it home!

There are 37 messages in this topic.