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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author

top roping from rap anchors

8/08/2005
8:35:57 AM

>However, two x screwgates, one through each anchor would be hard to stuff
>up, unlikely to fail and easy to prepare and use. Does that sound like
>a goer?

the problem here is twist. If you clip locking biners directly into the rings/U-bolts, your locking biners will want to sit flat against the rock. A weighted rope running through the two biners will try to twist them 90 degrees so you have a torque/twist applied on your locking biners which is non-ideal.

In the other solutions the sling and/or quickdraws provide the required 90 degree twist.


rodw

8/08/2005
9:18:45 AM

>He performs secret voodoo dances at crags to keep the U bolters away.
>

And Im a good dancer to...yeah baby:)

There are 42 messages in this topic.