Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
FREIGHT FREE
in Australia

Black Diamond: 10mm DYNEX: 60cm (24") Runner. (Open round sling) Great for making "extender" quick-draws. IMO   $10.00
28% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 21
Author
Slash and sandbag grades
Kanya
24/05/2005
11:39:25 AM
With my tongue firmly in the side of my cheek I notice in the thread "Good routes at Scorpion Rocks"
the introduction of slash and sandbag grades. Kent's new route Steve's Arete is given the grade 22/24
by one pundit. The route Poised to Strike is given 20 sandbag 24. This is the first published instance
of the sandbag grade I believe. It is not the first published instance of the slash grade but a post slash
grade 2 higher than the pre slash grade is interesting and possibly new.

After some detective work I think I know why these new grading techniques have been used. I think it
has something to do with the height of the gradee - or should I say the lack of height. I think the
second part of the slash and sandbag grades are shortass grades - how difficult a vertically challenged
climber would find the routes.

Now this seems like a good idea to me. Let's amend the Australian grading system to include a
shortass grade. So Poised to Strike could be 20 S+4 and Steve's Arete could be could be 22 S+2. The
under 5 traverse on the Burnley Bridge could be 26 S-2. And why stop at the Australian grading scale.
Let's make the shortass grading system international. We could have English climbs graded E6 6a S
+2. And dangerous climbs could be E5 5c X S+3. US grades could be 5.14b X S+2.

Finally wingeing shortass climbers could have their day.

What do you think Simey? Come to think of it Simey seems to have gone quiet lately. The cost of
broadband in Natimuk must be more than the Centrelink payment.
Ronny
24/05/2005
11:44:40 AM

>
>Finally wingeing shortass climbers could have their day.
>

why on earth should we give them that? ;P
J

cruze
24/05/2005
11:45:52 AM
Excellent idea in my opinion. And what about fatass grades? F+10 for the steep stuff, F-5 for the squeezy stuff. Or chubby finger grades for that crimpy stuff or thin cracks...


runnit
24/05/2005
1:02:56 PM
maybe the FA details n the description should just include their height, weight, ape index, finger size, shoe size, star sign and how many weetbix they had for brekky so everyone can make their own adjustments = )

littlejames
24/05/2005
1:23:45 PM
How about we just have Excuse Grades.

"Yeah, that was a 23, but given I'm short/tall/thin/fat/hungover/sober, it was Exc25."

James
24/05/2005
11:55:45 PM

>>Finally wingeing shortass climbers could have their day.

maybe the shortass climbers can just learn some technique...
KP
25/05/2005
12:00:13 AM
i heard it was because all the classice routes at scorpian rocks are soft ticks. Oopps i let it slip... oh well.
jmgh
25/05/2005
7:22:58 AM
On 24/05/2005 James wrote
>
>maybe the shortass climbers can just learn some technique...

shortarses:- Joe Brown, Don Whillans,Johnny Dawes, Roland Foster, Andy Pollit, Malcolm Matheson, Lynn Hill, Louise Shepherd,Nathan Hoette, Vincent Day, .............

lurches :- Ron Fawcett, Layton Kor, Martin Boysen,erm....Simey, isn't Giles Bradbury really tall or am I thinking of someone else?, Mike Weeks , er, I need help now........

Just thinking out loud .

jon, 6ft2" and tired of being told it's an advantage.............even if i do look for routes with a crux described as " a long reach "

oh and just in case,apologies to anyone who doesn't consider themselves a shortarse
:-)


nmonteith
25/05/2005
9:06:56 AM
I have seen a certain mostashed gent shut down completely by routes that were too reachy for him. He is not known for his crap technique!
Nottobetaken
25/05/2005
1:11:03 PM
Totally agree Ronny - it's been said before - but if you are 5ft 3" and therefore weigh 20+ kilos less than anyone over 6ft - you aint got nothing to complain about. Stop eating cake and get some real finger strength!
jmgh
27/05/2005
4:03:28 AM
neil, apologies for leaving you off the shortarse list!


>I have seen a certain mostashed gent shut down completely by routes that
>were too reachy for him.

you mean he didn't just jump? boy he can jump

IdratherbeclimbingM9
14/11/2012
1:36:19 PM
Bump of an interesting thread.

I wonder if today's gymn expats think this topic also includes offwidths?
;-)
pecheur
14/11/2012
1:45:59 PM
On 14/11/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Bump of an interesting thread.
>
>I wonder if today's gymn expats think this topic also includes offwidths?
>;-)

Are you trawling through old stuff again Rod?

Offwidths shouldn't have a special grade, however something like Veni Vedi Vici (17) at Werribee is offwidth for me but if you have bigger fists it's purely a fist jam, and a piece of cake. That being said even doing it mainly with arm bars it wasn't too bad, just need bigger gear ...

On Melbourne Cup weekend at Araps I tried Red Parrot Chasm (11) for the first time which is a true chimney. My two gym expat partners couldn't get more than half way up on second and they climb much harder than that on face climbs.

shortman
14/11/2012
2:04:10 PM
On 14/11/2012 pecheur wrote:

>Are you trawling through old stuff again Rod?
>

Clearly!!

>Offwidths shouldn't have a special grade, however something like Veni
>Vedi Vici (17) at Werribee is offwidth for me but if you have bigger fists
>it's purely a fist jam, and a piece of cake. That being said even doing
>it mainly with arm bars it wasn't too bad, just need bigger gear ...
>

This thing is like a hand crack for me. Fists and armbars!?!

Your smaller than I thought!

>On Melbourne Cup weekend at Araps I tried Red Parrot Chasm (11) for the
>first time which is a true chimney. My two gym expat partners couldn't
>get more than half way up on second and they climb much harder than that
>on face climbs.

WTF?!?

Climboholic
14/11/2012
2:05:43 PM
I've never met HB, but I've always pictured him being over 6ft.

I guess it's got something to do with looking up to him metaphorically (I'm 5'11").

Post Edit: and the fact that he's lanky like a greyhound.
pecheur
14/11/2012
4:06:13 PM
On 14/11/2012 shortman wrote:
>On 14/11/2012 pecheur wrote:
>
>>Offwidths shouldn't have a special grade, however something like Veni
>>Vedi Vici (17) at Werribee is offwidth for me but if you have bigger
>fists
>>it's purely a fist jam, and a piece of cake. That being said even doing
>>it mainly with arm bars it wasn't too bad, just need bigger gear ...
>>
>
>This thing is like a hand crack for me. Fists and armbars!?!

Hmm if you think you climb No 4 Camelots (the dog leg bit) as a hand crack I can now understand why you can't climb "hand crack" :P

>>On Melbourne Cup weekend at Araps I tried Red Parrot Chasm (11) for the
>>first time which is a true chimney. My two gym expat partners couldn't
>>get more than half way up on second and they climb much harder than that
>>on face climbs.
>
>WTF?!?

Yeah I was a little surprised too, I found it quite fun.

E. Wells
14/11/2012
8:54:28 PM
Wow, Vincent Day is a shortass?! Nathan Hoette? Logan Barber does the best Ive seen but still lets you know about it. ....My partner can reach my elbow at full stretch and I think about a;ll those holds I just can reach...but shortasses can get theyre feet higher and have less weight to haul up. I think the hardest thing about being really short is getting hard catches from sh&t belayers.
mattbrooks
22/11/2012
10:41:32 AM
No excuses for short arses when numerous very good climbers such as Lynn Hill are less than 5 foot and still hauls arse. Get fitter, get better technique or just be prepared to work harder for the send! I have been shut down on many things first up and just have to find a way around it, many routes its actually an advantage, with more options!
mattbrooks
23/11/2012
10:12:07 AM
New route grades are always going to be just a punt in the air! Grade it and wait and see what consensus says. I have had new routes go down and just as many go up, pick your closest guess and go with it. Having a good day can get you 3 extra grades on the odd occasion, lol.

rodw
Online Now
23/11/2012
11:02:37 AM
I reckon more tend to go down than up...as ego comes into play and not wanting to sound soft. ..but agree its hard to grade new routes when you bolted it, cleaned, sussed the moves etc and all the time telling yourself how hard/easy it is before you even get on it.

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 21
There are 21 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints