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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 4 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 107
Author
What got you started?

Sabu
24-Oct-2007
10:11:24 PM
On 24/10/2007 davids wrote:
>>which he and Stempy ran
>Stempy. mmm... I wonder if that's the rather tall blondish fullback who
>used to play for the Monash Uni rugby team with me in the early 80's? He
>was much too fast and skilful and much too stylish (and good looking) for
>the rest of us knuckle draggers.
>David
Full name is Brenden Stemp if that helps!

shortman
23-Feb-2011
10:51:43 PM
Bump

A good topic!

Always climbed things. Did my ACL in my right leg and had to go into a climbing shop to get gear for a slackline to strengthen the knee. Saw all this stuff and was fascinated. Anyway, six months later when the knee was stronger I started soloing buildings and bridges and anything I could climb again. On cup day last year was in Tassy, really stoned, had a chance to climb "properly", took it, and loved it. That was less than 4 months ago and I cant remember my life without climbing.

pmonks
24-Feb-2011
6:25:17 AM
A very good topic!

First direct exposure to climbing I can remember was a trip with the family to Tibro in about 1983 or so. We wandered up to the base of the cliff somewhere and noticed a pair of shoes sitting on the ground. Out of nowhere a climber appeared, grabbed his shoes and proceeded to solo straight up the cliff. He said it was a very easy and direct way to the top, and offered to take us up it, so off we went (still sans rope, gear etc.). I can remember it being quite easy - lots of small trees (ironwoods?) to grab hold of, etc., but after what seemed like forever (but was probably less than 50m) the exposure started getting to me and we hit a treeless, exposed traverse off to the right.

The climber whizzed straight across and then waited on the other side for us, and while dad was keen to continue, I freaked out and refused to do it. I can still picture what the traverse looked like, and while my memory of it makes it seem obviously easy (low angled slab below an overhanging bulge), I think the rock architecture (particularly the overhanging bulge) and the huge amount of air below it was enough to scare the bejeezuz out of 9yo me.

I've often wondered what that route was - in hindsight it must be a popular ascent / descent route since the base was quite worn and eroded and I recall seeing plenty of signs of wear on the bit we did climb too. There may have even been a sign at the base?

Anyone recognise it from such a vague description? Better yet, anyone know who the climber might have been? I think he may have even been wearing EBs - my memory of that event is so clear I can still picture them 30-odd years later!

[edit] this isn't what got me started - in fact it may have delayed my eventual interest in climbing by scaring the crap out of me early on!

nmonteith
24-Feb-2011
7:13:46 AM
That is the Caves Route on the East Face. The first hard moves are that awkward traverse which is certainly high enough to kill you if you fell off. It used to be the common descent (for climbers) on that side of the mountain, but I believe these days people have added retro rap chains down it so you don't need to down solo it. It's a great climb with a long history of dodgy ascents and rescues!

Gavo
24-Feb-2011
8:48:05 AM
I got started because I always climbed things as a kid. According to my mum, when I couldnt even walk I would manage to clear the 5ft fence in the backyard, thanks to some stuff against it, which she used as my playpen, end up in the neighbours yard, then get returned via the front door and an unhappy neighbour.

Then I grew up on a farm with massive sugar(?) gums and spent most of my youth up them pretending I was one of the characters from the movie K2.

But I never pursued it for some stupid reason. Then 6 months ago I ended up in THIS town with nothing to do, and I started thinking about things I wanted to do. Climbing of course popped to mind and I checked a map, Arapiles 1.5 hours away. Ripper.

Started thread on chockstone, joined the VCC, went on a beginners day, did more and more.

Im sure thats the same story for everyone
bones
24-Feb-2011
9:12:53 AM
My dad took me to cliffhanger when I was really young, and a mate took me multipitching in Araps a bunch of times during Uni while he was building up his lead miles for an outdoor ed course, but I didn't get really hooked until I was stuck in London, broke. I couldn't afford much, but a 30 pound monthly Westway gym pass was within reach so I just spent all my time there, training and meeting climbers. Eventually I met one that offered me a job in the Dolomites. Spending the better part of a year in the mountains with a group of climbers would inspire anyone.

pmonks
24-Feb-2011
9:14:16 AM
Thanks Neil - how far up is the traverse? I remember it felt like I was about a million miles above the ground, but it can't have been that far since we didn't climb for very long before we got to it.

nmonteith
24-Feb-2011
9:36:06 AM
On 24/02/2011 pmonks wrote:
>Thanks Neil - how far up is the traverse?

Maybe 50-100m up?

That route has really fond memories for me. My dad has photos of him climbing it (solo) with his highschool mates in the early 50s. They rode push-bikes from Brisbane, climbed up that face then rode home that afternoon! I dragged both of my aged parents and younger brother up it when I was 15 using the tow-rope from our car! My Mum got a bit freaked at the traverse but we got her up. She had climbed it 30 years previously when she was part of the Queensland Uni climbing/bushwalking club. It's a real mountaineering adventure. You can camp in the caves halfway up the route which has got to be one of the coolest places to bivi - expansive views over the Sunshine Coast and pineapple plantations.

It's route #8 on this topo
http://www.qurank.com/glasshouse/images/topo_tibro_groundlevelroutes.jpg

You would have climbed to just after the diagonal topo lines goes vertical - about 2/5ths of the way up.

Miguel75
24-Feb-2011
10:29:22 AM
I was first exposed to climbing when I moved to the US in 95 and was lucky enough to have been dragged along to some amazing locations. My room mates brother was a diehard climber who lived in his car at Hueco and Smith Rocks. He took me bouldering in Little Cottonwood Canyon one day and I really enjoyed it so on the way back we popped into REI and I picked up some hightop scarpas... He took me climbing all over Utah: AF Canyon, St George, Logan Canyon, LCC, BCC... I thought it was because of my awesome accent but I now realize I was his belay slave.

Another friend would take me to Smith Rocks during our Summer boarding camps at Mt Hood, Oregon. And than when I worked on the ranches in La Sal (just below Moab Ut) and in Wyoming, I got to play in Zion, all around Moab and Vedauwoo

I enjoyed the experiences though I had boarding running through my veins and it wasn't until a year and a half ago I met up with an old friends hubby and caught the itch to climb everything.

I like climbing!


pmonks
24-Feb-2011
10:32:34 AM
You lived in La Sal? Wow! Even my hardcore Utah / LSDLDS mates advise me to stay well away from there!

wallwombat
24-Feb-2011
11:19:27 AM
I read a Chris Bonginton book when I was on a school bushwalk. I think I was 14. That made me decide I wanted to climb.

After that, I was soon using dog leads and screw drivers to aid climb up the side wall of our two story terrace. Mum wasn't pleased.


Miguel75
24-Feb-2011
11:36:44 AM
On 24/02/2011 pmonks wrote:
>You lived in La Sal? Wow! Even my hardcore Utah / LSDLDS
>mates advise me to stay well away from there!

I worked on a mates family's 250,000 acre ranch. It was an amazing place with no one around... Except for a communist polygamist group with automatic weapons. They were waiting for the apocalypse and were really very pleasant to speak with. I'm not sure what their fundamental beliefs were as I was a touch scared to ask! I'd be out on the horses at 4am and you could hear them cut loose with their machine guns; shooting at what I wasn't sure.

Further south, in the four corners area where the borders of Colorado, Utah, Arizona and New Mexico meet, there are quite a few FLDS, Fundamental LDS, church members. They're the ones that still practice polygamy.

hangdog
24-Feb-2011
12:26:19 PM
i joined a Bushwalking club when i was 14. Met a few climbers and then headed off with them into the wilds of Glenbrook gorge. The bushwalking club didnt like us climbing as they were a bushwalking club. So we gave up bushwalking and took up climbing.
Wendy
24-Feb-2011
1:53:24 PM
On 24/02/2011 Miguel75 wrote:

>
>Further south, in the four corners area where the borders of Colorado,
>Utah, Arizona and New Mexico meet, there are quite a few FLDS, Fundamental
>LDS, church members. They're the ones that still practice polygamy.

Are they doing as well as this guy?
http://www.abc.net.au/news/stories/2011/02/23/3146295.htm?section=justin

Miguel75
24-Feb-2011
2:46:44 PM
On 24/02/2011 Wendy wrote:
>Are they doing as well as this guy?
>http://www.abc.net.au/news/stories/2011/02/23/3146295.htm?section=justin
>

Freak nasty! How does he survive? I have one wife, two kids and struggle. Granted I am a slug!!!
dalai
24-Feb-2011
2:46:52 PM
On 24/02/2011 Miguel75 wrote:
> He took me climbing all over Utah: AF Canyon, St George, Logan
>Canyon, LCC, BCC... I thought it was because of my awesome accent but I
>now realize I was his belay slave.

Yes, nice belay ticks. Having been to a few of those areas, wouldn't have been too much for the beginner to do other than hold the rope!

Miguel75
24-Feb-2011
4:10:51 PM
On 24/02/2011 dalai wrote:.
>Yes, nice belay ticks. Having been to a few of those areas, wouldn't have
>been too much for the beginner to do other than hold the rope!

Luckily I got to climb a little at each of the places he dragged me around to though I mainly just bouldered/scrambled.

I did lots of bouldering in LCC as my home mountain (Snowbird) was just a few miles up the canyon. It is still one of my favorite places in the world, along with my house, Werribee Gorge, Boobs, Winki and 2nd reef.
Wendy
24-Feb-2011
4:39:47 PM
Boobs are amongst many men's favourite places

Miguel75
24-Feb-2011
5:17:56 PM
On 24/02/2011 Wendy wrote:
>Boobs are amongst many men's favourite places

Indeed they are... Well played Wendy!

I originally meant the west coast surf break not too far from Winki; next to Steps... Though your comment rings true:)

freesolo
25-Feb-2011
7:52:59 AM
was living in greece, working at a potato processing factory, living in one room, but my tv got some english programs. saw a documentary about a french guy who climbed all time "8 hours a day on the vertical". this was about 15 years ago. first thing i did when i got back home was buy a pair of shoes and start climbing indoors. have given up career, family, sex, home, and normal friendships ever since.

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