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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Poll Option Votes Graph
Yes I use chalk 126
82% 
No I don't use chalk 28
18% 

 Page 11 of 12. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180 | 181 to 200 | 201 to 220 | 221 to 227
Author
To Chalk or not to Chalk

nmonteith
15/07/2009
2:12:52 PM
My name is Neil and I'm a chalkaholic. I can think back to many instances in the past where I have run out of chalk in foreign lands and it's been a case of blind panic trying to locate the magic powder. I've begged, borrowed and even stolen chalk from others to keep up my habit. I've cleaned out shop after shop of every ounce they stock.

For example, I've never understood how you can boulder at the gym and NOT wear a chalkbag whilst climbing? I need to chalk up every few moves - so if its a long problem I'm stuffed if i don't have the magic dipping sauce.
widewetandslippery
15/07/2009
2:17:13 PM
I have fond memories of buying 20kg bags from the Forestville pottery shop. Are they the sort of blocks you're talking about M9?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
15/07/2009
2:20:29 PM
******************************************************************************************************
Defuse the bait buffer zone...................................................................Heh, heh, heh.
******************************************************************************************************
Nah, ... talking the poofytiny little over the counter in yuppie climbing shops stuff, about the size of a large bar of soap, wrapped in paper.
I have heard you can buy it in rock-colour pre-crushed form in plastic sachets these days!

I have bought builders dehydrated lime in bulk though, ~> and used some in poo-tubes for walling purposes. Do you want to borrow some?


ajfclark
15/07/2009
2:23:27 PM
On 15/07/2009 nmonteith wrote:
>a chalk ball doesn't even cut the mustard in summer

I find that my sweat + chalk = glue that clogs the chalk ball and stops more chalk getting out at any time of year.
BA
15/07/2009
6:16:44 PM
On 15/07/2009 nmonteith wrote:

>was in optimum ticking conditions (ie 10'C and zero humidity).

What sort of oven gives you 10 degrees C and 0% humidity? And one big enough that you can climb in at that? 0% humidity? WTF?

nmonteith
15/07/2009
6:19:07 PM
On 15/07/2009 BA wrote:
>What sort of oven gives you 10 degrees C and 0% humidity? And one big
>enough that you can climb in at that? 0% humidity? WTF?

Ok, not zero percent then mr pedantic pants! It was a lovely dry crisp clear day. The sort of conditions boulderers lust over.
bones
16/07/2009
12:48:42 PM
I'm an addict. I've been using for a few years now. I can't go a single move without a hit. It doesn't serve any purpose. Sometimes I even use without noticing. It just keeps me calm. If I don't get it my legs start to shake.

muki
16/07/2009
1:48:32 PM
Only ever use chalk if I can't hold onto a particularly bad sloper. or if I'm jaming a flaring crack and need
the extra help/aid of having my hand not suddenly blow out of the jam.
I have my chalk bag on most climbs, but it stays shut 99% of the time.
bl@ke
16/07/2009
6:32:32 PM
I use chalk but after reading the lattest article in rock i have started only using it when im leading because my hands sweat like mad when im leading. I hate chalk balls they dont give me nearly enough chalk.

Sabu
16/07/2009
11:09:14 PM
Well 4 years on I've remained chalkless and don't bother taking the bag with me. Climbed
in all seasons, and lead into the low 20's at araps recently. I must admit though i've found it
harder on the higher grades in summer without chalk, but I don't believe it influenced any
outcomes.
richardo
16/07/2009
11:45:05 PM
On 16/07/2009 bomber pro wrote:
>Only ever use chalk if I can't hold onto a particularly bad sloper. or
>if I'm jaming a flaring crack and need
>the extra help/aid of having my hand not suddenly blow out of the jam.
>I have my chalk bag on most climbs, but it stays shut 99% of the time.

Seems a bit weird to carry around a closed chalk bag only to use it one in every hundred climbs. My
chalk bag is a bitch to open with two hands on the ground. You must be spewin when you get to that
one in a hundred sloper a 100m out from your last piece of gear, and I shudder with fear thinking of
you fist up a flaring crack wiggling the toggle on your sack from behind just to get a shot of the good
stuff.

What brand of chalk bag do you use? And how do you know when to retire it? Do you keep a chalkbag
logbook? Do you practice how fast you can open a bag with one hand? My record is 14.3 seconds with
my left hand and 17.8 seconds with my right.

JimboV10
17/07/2009
9:01:39 AM
I'm a longterm hardcore user.. Maybe its the boulderer in me... Liquid chalk plus loose chalk over the top... I had to start going harder and harder a couple of years ago, the chalk bag wasnt giving me that buzz any more.. Had to buy a chalk bucket and its a long slippery slope from there...

muki
17/07/2009
11:07:15 AM
On 16/07/2009 richardo wrote:

>Seems a bit weird to carry around a closed chalk bag only to use it one
>in every hundred climbs.
every ones different I suppose.
>My chalk bag is a bitch to open with two hands on the ground.
Maybe my bag is easier to open
>You must be spewin when you get to that
>one in a hundred sloper a 100m out from your last piece of gear,
No, I just down climb to the last stance if I'm not at one already at one.
>and I shudder with fear thinking of
>you fist up a flaring crack wiggling the toggle on your sack from behind
>just to get a shot of the good stuff.
Well if you try to control your fear levels eg shuddering less, you might stand a better chance.
>What brand of chalk bag do you use? And how do you know when to retire
>it? Do you keep a chalkbag logbook? Do you practice how fast you can open a bag with one hand?
>My record is 14.3 seconds with my left hand and 17.8 seconds with my right.
It's been a while since I last bought any , sorry can't remember, no logbook, and I have never tried
timing how fast I can open or shut the calkbag, bit of waste of time really, can think of much better
things to do than time myself doing things that take no effort normally ?
I also use it to carry bolt plates and have been considering taking a toothbrush for cleaning unwanted
chalk build up off the holds on cruxy sections.
BA
17/07/2009
5:45:32 PM
On 15/07/2009 nmonteith wrote:
>On 15/07/2009 BA wrote:

>Ok, not zero percent then mr pedantic pants!

Not pedantic, just annoyed about how lazy some people become when trying to express themselves.
;-) :-) :-( ;-( etc. Oh, and ;-p

nmonteith
17/07/2009
5:46:54 PM
Sorry Bill!
richardo
17/07/2009
11:52:15 PM
On 17/07/2009 Wingello Panther wrote:
>>14.3 seconds with my left hand and 17.8 seconds with my right.
>
>those are fast times dickyb8 (@gmail.com). im sure the girls are impressed.

Faarkk yerrhhh. If I could pull myself away from the mirror (practising one handed desperate chalk bag
opening off a sloper) they'd be dripping off me.

muki
18/07/2009
8:42:53 PM
On 17/07/2009 richardo wrote:

>Faarkk yerrhhh. If I could pull myself away from the mirror (practising
>one handed desperate chalk bag opening off a sloper) they'd be dripping off me.

Hey Oivand, did you send Mr Joshua Yet, Or are you still dripping off it.
richardo
18/07/2009
10:15:12 PM
On 18/07/2009 bomber pro wrote:
>On 17/07/2009 richardo wrote:
>
>>Faarkk yerrhhh. If I could pull myself away from the mirror (practising
>>one handed desperate chalk bag opening off a sloper) they'd be dripping
>off me.
>
>Hey Oivand, did you send Mr Joshua Yet, Or are you still dripping off
>it.

Yeh, I half did it a few weeks ago (by half I mean that on my first try I missed the dyno on the second
pitch following it...otherwise an onsight?). Anyway who gives a f---. Its just a f---in stupid piece of
rock.

I am hopefully permanent in Australia now. I just need a job and a flat (with a full size mirror) before
my melbourne friends kick me out.

Chuck Norris
18/07/2009
10:34:38 PM
Bullshit. Oivand's a loser and can't climb for shit.

By the way does anyone in Melbourne want a Norwegian flatmate who farts a lot and thinks that 2kg of
bananas per week qualifies as rent.

muki
19/07/2009
11:53:54 AM
On 18/07/2009 richardo wrote:
>Yeh, I half did it a few weeks ago (by half I mean that on my first try
>I missed the dyno on the second pitch following it...otherwise an onsight?).

So by half doing it (normally called failing to do it) you have otherwise onsighted it ?

>Anyway who gives a f---.Its just a f---in stupid piece of rock.

this is an interesting comment that I have come up against quite often when people flail/fail on climbs.
I would consider most climbs on Tiapan to be of very high quality.
Even the bad ones on Tiapan, are in a superb location !

>I am hopefully permanent in Australia now. I just need a job and a flat
>(with a full size mirror) before
>my melbourne friends kick me out.

you could just move to Sydney, not so much "stupid f@#$kin rock" up there I hear.

 Page 11 of 12. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180 | 181 to 200 | 201 to 220 | 221 to 227
There are 227 messages in this topic.

 

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