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Black Diamond: 10mm DYNEX: 60cm (24") Runner. (Open round sling) Great for making "extender" quick-draws. IMO   $10.00
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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 3 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 79
Author
Havachatwithsimey
widewetandslippery
7/08/2007
12:26:21 PM
Has gmanfairlyfaggot , the wog, the toy boy and the ryobi shown up yet? You need to take the frog sticky date puncher out and show him some gay mexican netball Simon.

muki
7/08/2007
12:33:09 PM
On 7/08/2007 M10iswhereitsat. wrote:
>Bomba wrote:

>>the fun really starts at about 1/4 hight and gets full on at 1/2 hight
>then backs off at about 4/5

all fixed hangers and some nuts and medium cams at the top

>OK... this is very important ... what grade mostly , is the 1st 1/4 ?

first 1/4 felt about 20/21

>... and wot grade is the ' cruisy ' trad stuff for the last 1/5 ?

19/20

>What grade is the final block ...

17/18 old boy crack climbing

>Did ... you ... *ahem* ... REALLY stand on top ?... mate ... *ahem *

Yeah!!! I was'nt about to put in all that effort an not stand on top! but it was more of a crouch and
hanging on for dear life to my lead rope, cos the wind was gusting pretty hard, but on and off- so you
could,nt lean against it or it would die down and you'd fall off!

PS: in response to some comments about a pitons in the first pitch crack, the vague memory of when
I did the route both times, that there was two in the crack but I didn't use them as they looked so bad,
but there are also some fixed RP's and ther junk on some Aid routes that go up above the first pitch,
as it wrapes around 3 different sides of the tote on it's way to the half way ledge.
Also the official hight is listed as 50m the first original pitch is only 10m in hight gain, but uses 25m of
rope, the second pitch is 40m and has 10 FH, equipment list is 6 bolt brackets, cams to #3, and 15
draws, luckily the top anchor is now a set of rings or U bolts rather than the collection of manky pins
arrows rurps and rusting shit that I had to use to create my tirolene anchor from!

M10iswhereitsat.
7/08/2007
1:55:21 PM
On 7/08/2007 stugang wrote:
>On 7/08/2007 M10iswhereitsat. wrote:
>
>>
>>Hey there, baby !!!
>>The Tote is really cool !!!:D
>>I wanna go with Stutang...
>>But that dude thinks ima fool !!!:(
>>
>>Stutgang --- ura tool ! :D
>>
>
>nah - i'll do it with ya - on one condition...I want a tiny bit more (only
>a bit more) beta than you - I want
>draws in place and fag tags on every hold with a little L or R underneath

Bomba --- for the 3rd time, PLZ , I need some beta re the ' every hold '...

>What about the size , positiveness of the holds , near the bolts , on the 2nd pitch ?

i.e. is it relatively easy to hang around at the bolts to clip them on pitch 2 ?

M10iswhereitsat.
7/08/2007
2:00:01 PM
Idrathercopyhexwithmypostingstyle wrote :

>In a useless attempt to mitigate the ensuing flaming...

get a life , mate ...



M10iswhereitsat.
7/08/2007
2:07:27 PM
On 7/08/2007 bomber pro wrote:
>On 7/08/2007 M10iswhereitsat. wrote:
>>Bomba wrote:
>
>>>the fun really starts at about 1/4 hight and gets full on at 1/2 hight
>>then backs off at about 4/5
>
>all fixed hangers and some nuts and medium cams at the top
>
>>OK... this is very important ... what grade mostly , is the 1st 1/4 ?
>
>first 1/4 felt about 20/21
---------------------------------------------
*sigh* ... this is good:-)
--------------------------------------------
>>... and wot grade is the ' cruisy ' trad stuff for the last 1/5 ?
>
>19/20
------------------------------------------
bewdy !!
-------------------------------------------
>>What grade is the final block ...
>
>17/18 old boy crack climbing
------------------------------------------------
Hmmmm ... OK ... Might get Simey along to lead this bit , since he still hasn't climbed to the top ... Simey ! Did you climb/aid all the way when you aided the Tote ?
-------------------------------------------------
>
>>Did ... you ... *ahem* ... REALLY stand on top ?... mate ... *ahem *
>
>Yeah!!! I was'nt about to put in all that effort an not stand on top!
>but it was more of a crouch and
>hanging on for dear life to my lead rope, cos the wind was gusting pretty
>hard, but on and off- so you
>could,nt lean against it or it would die down and you'd fall off!
-------------------------------------
Exactly... thats how I imagined one would do it ...
--------------------------------------
>
>PS: in response to some comments about a pitons in the first pitch crack,
>the vague memory of when
>I did the route both times, that there was two in the crack but I didn't
>use them as they looked so bad,
>but there are also some fixed RP's and ther junk on some Aid routes that
>go up above the first pitch,
---------------------------------
Yeah I believe this is the Spanish route...
---------------------------------
>as it wrapes around 3 different sides of the tote on it's way to the half
>way ledge.
>Also the official hight is listed as 50m the first original pitch is only
>10m in hight gain, but uses 25m of
>rope, the second pitch is 40m and has 10 FH, equipment list is 6 bolt
>brackets,
-----------------------------------
4 the 1st pitch, correct ?
----------------------------------
cams to #3, and 15
>draws, luckily the top anchor is now a set of rings or U bolts rather
>than the collection of manky pins
>arrows rurps and rusting shit that I had to use to create my tirolene
>anchor from!
>

Chalkischeap ! --- is all the heritage mank still there ?? I hope so . PLZ LEAVE IT.




many thx 2u Bomba;-)
----------------------------
simey
7/08/2007
2:23:40 PM
On 7/08/2007 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Has gmanfairlyfaggot , the wog, the toy boy and the ryobi shown up yet? You need to take the frog sticky date puncher out and show him some gay mexican netball Simon.

Yeah they've shown up at Araps and are doing a good job of giving climbers a bad name. There was a party at my place on Saturday and while everyone cut loose on the dance floor, they sat around and read climbing magazines. Lame.

They have fallen their way up a few routes at Araps, although I was more impressed with Vincent's form at the skate park. That boy has got style.


M10iswhereitsat.
7/08/2007
2:26:15 PM
OK ... nearly beta-saturated ... between 1/4 and 4/5 it's 'grade 25'... sustained 5.11/5.12 ... I understand that ... however ... what grade is most of this section ... or sections of this section ... it cant all be 25 , cos then ppl WOULD grade it 26/27 ...



M10iswhereitsat.
7/08/2007
2:29:35 PM
>There was a party at my place on Saturday and while everyone cut loose on the >dance floor, they sat around and read climbing magazines...

That always pulls the chicks ... the ones with coke-bottle glasses , buck teeth , with acne ... on their back ...






That's how I met MrsM10' ...
simey
7/08/2007
2:35:31 PM
On 7/08/2007 M10iswhereitsat. wrote:
>>There was a party at my place on Saturday and while everyone cut loose
>on the >dance floor, they sat around and read climbing magazines...
>
>That always pulls the chicks ... the ones with coke-bottle glasses , buck teeth , with acne ... on their back ...

There weren't any chicks like that at this party... they were all hot...





M10iswhereitsat.
7/08/2007
2:40:47 PM
>hot...

So r these ones once ya get em in the super-down fart-sack ... just put a condom on ur tongue , an their bad breath is managable ...

M10iswhereitsat.
7/08/2007
2:42:36 PM
On 7/08/2007 M10iswhereitsat. wrote:
>OK ... nearly beta-saturated ... between 1/4 and 4/5 it's 'grade 25'...
>sustained 5.11/5.12 ... I understand that ... however ... what grade is
>most of this section ... or sections of this section ... it cant all be
>25 , cos then ppl WOULD grade it 26/27 ...
>


Simey !!! --- I'd love ur opinion here --- U should know !!!
simey
7/08/2007
3:35:39 PM
On 7/08/2007 M10iswhereitsat. wrote:
>Simey !!! --- I'd love ur opinion here --- U should know !!!

What do you want to know that hasn't already been said?

26/27 is nonsense. It is soft touch at 25 and could easily be graded 24. Craglets actually graded the second pitch 23 when they first wrote it up (although I almost choked when I first read that - obviously someone was having a good day when they repeated it).

If you want to train for it, then I recommend throwing a few laps down at Richmond Bridge in Melbourne.

Stop asking all these dumb questions and have a bloody bash at the thing.


IdratherbeclimbingM9
7/08/2007
4:45:05 PM
On 7/08/2007 M10iswhereitsat. wrote:
>Idrathercopyhexwithmypostingstyle wrote :
>
>>In a useless attempt to mitigate the ensuing flaming...
>
>get a life , mate ...
>


Interesting dilemma / chicken and egg thing, happening in your mind hex, as I did not think my style copies yours. The last thing I reckon you would want is to be tarred with that brush!

... anyrate as stugang kind of alluded too; I suggested; and now simey reinforced ...
>Stop asking all these dumb questions and have a bloody bash at the thing.

Heaven help mousey if he has to answer a heap of q's about Lord Gumtree before he is 'allowed' to go do a winter ascent of it (or Cerro Torre for that matter), with you!

:~((

Heh, heh, heh.
Bob Saki
7/08/2007
5:21:19 PM
On 7/08/2007 M10iswhereitsat. wrote:
>Idrathercopyhexwithmypostingstyle wrote :
>
>>In a useless attempt to mitigate the ensuing flaming...
>
>get a life , mate ...
>

I think you are being rude to Idratherbeclimbing, what has he ever done to offend you?

At least spar with people who genuinely may be r soles..........or do they have your measure?

Remember less is Moore!


>
>

Chuck Norris
7/08/2007
9:21:08 PM
On 7/08/2007 simey wrote:
>If you want to train for it, then I recommend throwing a few laps down
>at Richmond Bridge in Melbourne.
>

thanks for trying to wrap it up simey...though I expect there will be a couple more 'last questions'
before this thing gets finished. Let me see - if i were m10, what would i ask?

"is that where you trained to get fit for the tote?"..."which wall is better training?"...."are the aretes
similar to the tote & if so which one?"...."should I be using the crimpers or the side pulls?"...."is the
seepage on richmond bridge similar to that of salt water on dolerite?"..."which shakes more? the bridge
with a passing train or the tote with a crashing wave?" &c &c &c...

and if you answer those then i suspect there will be one more question PLZ!!!!!
simey
7/08/2007
9:43:37 PM
Stugang,
You manage to ask better questions than M10, even though you are only taking the piss.

By the way, I reckon Richmond Bridge with a passing train shakes more than the Tote being hit by a wave. But the chances of the Tote falling down in the near future are pretty good given that since I've started climbing, the summit of Mt Cook, the Bonatti Pillar on the Dru and one of the Twelve Apostles have all collapsed.


muki
7/08/2007
10:52:59 PM
On 7/08/2007 simey wrote:
> But the chances of the Tote falling
>down in the near future are pretty good given that since I've started climbing
>the summit of Mt Cook, the Bonatti Pillar on the Dru and one of the Twelve
>Apostles have all collapsed.

Hear that!, better stop all the betta breakdance and just get out there and DO IT! before it falls over.
BA
8/08/2007
11:15:07 AM
On 7/08/2007 simey wrote:

>But the chances of the Tote falling
>down in the near future are pretty good given that since I've started climbing,
>the summit of Mt Cook, the Bonatti Pillar on the Dru and one of the Twelve
>Apostles have all collapsed.

Crikey! Does that mean that Araps and most of the Gramps can be expected to fall down soon? Get the selected guides and do the climbs in them soon! While they're still standing! Meanwhile those of us without a death-wish will be found in the back-blocks looking for places that Simey hasn't climbed.
widewetandslippery
8/08/2007
12:07:06 PM
(re fairlyfaggot). Those softc--ks can be somewhat an embaressment but I'm sure they get more embaressed by me far more often. Do they have orange arms and ordinance? (they will know what I mean). Has Damo bolted Syrinx yet? I may be down soon and I expect to see a lot of these "hot chicks" you are talking up.
simey
8/08/2007
3:43:31 PM
On 8/08/2007 widewetandslippery wrote:
>I may be down soon and I expect to see a lot of these "hot chicks" you are talking up.

The hot chicks have gone (well most of them). They were trucked in especially for the party from outa town.

 Page 3 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 79
There are 79 messages in this topic.

 

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