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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
Burnley: On Coxys Big Break Ch7 5.30pm this Sunday

Peacey
14/06/2006
10:12:12 PM
True, would it be possible to place some form of material unter the hold to stop it from rotatng?
Something that would create friction, when the bolt is tightened?

Tristan
climbingjac
16/06/2006
9:44:01 AM
Dear climbers,

There was a bit of activity down at Burnley yesterday afternoon. We were approached by the production team of Channel Seven's "Coxy's Big Break" to shoot a segment on Burnley, which will be coupled with a segment shot at Hardrock in Nunawading. As always, I was lucky enough to find climbers willing to show up and do their bit for the project, showing off their climbing skills for the camera. Thanks guys!

Below are some pictures of the day.

Bec Hopkins (left) and myself turn up for "work"


The film crew arrives and begins setting up


Tim Le and myself talk with the film crew about what they are wishing to capture on film


The camera man roams about and gets a collection of snippets. That's me in the pic below, and the latter pic is Tim Le




"Cut!" We had to film one particular question about 10 times, to ensure the statement became nice and brief (it's a tricky job outlining the history of the project, CityLink, Parks Victoria, the Victorian Climbing Club, 130 volunteers, and how great the wall is… all in the space of a snappy 15 seconds!), and to ensure we didn't have the noise of passing cyclists on the bike track in the background. The wind picked up too – and everyone gave up on presentation and tied their hair back!


The segment is expected to air in a couple of weeks – I'll let you know details when I hear more.

Burnley is now attracting more and more "new climbers". It's great to see experienced climbers helping these people out with techniques. We are inticipating more of an influx of beginners following the airing of the segment. Let's make them feel very welcome!

Thankyou to Nigel Preston for zipping around taking pics on the day. Thankyou to the climbers in attendance. Thankyou to Jen Stone who provided prep notes to me!

Best wishes,

Jacqui Middleton
BURNLEY PROJECT
climbingjac
16/06/2006
9:49:51 AM
Dear climbers,

A few new "up" problems went onto the walls yesterday.

45 wall: new fluorescent yellow "up" problem at left end of wall. Lookout for the fancy heelhook. Moderate. Routesetter – Bec Hopkins. Thanks to Josh Mills and Cameron Abraham for donating the fluorescent yellow holds!

30 wall: two new blue "up" problems in centre of wall. Moderate. Routesetter – Tim Le

Best wishes,

Jacqui Middleton
BURNLEY PROJECT
BA
16/06/2006
4:44:06 PM
How many people saw the Buffalo adventure on one of Coxy's "specials" a few weeks back? Or should this be a new post?
climbingjac
16/06/2006
4:58:00 PM
New thread if possible - this thread's getting quite long and is already catering for a number of different (Burnley-related) matters - cheers BA.
jespa
16/06/2006
9:39:04 PM
hey jac, do you have a contact number for timmy??? i think i may have something that belongs to him. just pm me the details
Cheers, Jesper
climbingjac
19/06/2006
10:06:50 AM
Please note the following works that took place at Burnley over the weekend:

Chris Abernethy created some stencils for us that would allow us to label our walls "Wall 1", "Wall 2" and "Wall 3". David Russell, Francesca Haig, Paul Coster and Anthony Morgan did the installation work. Thankyou to all for your efforts! The labelling will make it easier for us to direct beginners to "Wall 1" (the vertical wall) from the information sign (which is still in design phase).

Works on the 30 degree wall ("Wall 2")

A sit start has been added to the black 18. This adds 1 move to the route.

After having observed what is of interest to kids when visiting this wall, it seems that their key interest is being able to climb to the shark hold. As such, a few random jugs have been added to the wall to help them achieve this goal.

Works on the 45 degree wall ("Wall 3")

A sit start has been added to the stone coloured 25. This adds 2 moves to the route.

A magenta (purple-ish) coloured "up" problem has been added to the wall. It is located approx one third of the way along the wall, from the left. It is a toughie! It was set by Sam Morley, Selena, Scott Clarke and Anthony Prieto. Sorry – I don't know Selena's surname! Shall find out for the purposes of documentation in the guide. Anyone know Selena's surname?

A collection of random holds have been added to the kickboard and into the gaps on the face. This makes designing your own up problems a goer. It also makes it possible to do a low traverse using all colours. Thankyou to Marcel Jackson for pointing out this fact.

If anyone knows the surname of Selena, please post here!

Thanks all

Jacqui
gfdonc
19/06/2006
11:35:57 AM
Jac,
According to a PM he sent me over the weekend, Ant Morgan was going to be at Burnley yesterday. Chockstone user is Ant. I think this is "tall Anthony" (I doubt he qualified as "strong Anthony".)
- Steve
climbingjac
19/06/2006
11:58:57 AM
Thanks Steve! I've updated my post accordingly. Anthony Morgan sounds about right to me. The Anthony that has been working in the Northern Territory.
gfdonc
19/06/2006
1:37:39 PM
Bing! You got it.
climbingjac
26/06/2006
3:41:53 PM
Hi all,

FYI the email address to contact the Burnley Maintenance team is contained within the guidebook (see GUIDE section of Chockstone) -

http://www.chockstone.org/Melbourne/BurnleyGuidebook.pdf

jac
climbingjac
26/06/2006
3:42:53 PM
Dear climbers,

Please note that four new "up" problems went up over the weekend - two green ones on the 45 wall (Wall 3) and two white problems on the 30 wall (Wall 2). Also Wall 3 got a heap more spatter holds of random colours. This wall is now looking rather full - a fantastic woodie for making up your own problems!

Jacqui
climbingjac
10/07/2006
10:12:26 AM
Dear climbers,

Burnley has been open a little over 2 months now, so it's definitely time for a little bit of a review, and a debrief on where we are at.

We have received nothing but positive feedback regarding the presence of the bouldering walls, and the people using them. I thought you should all be aware of this feedback. Well done to everyone that has been using the wall for representing our climbing community in such a positive light, and for being so welcoming of newcomers. You should also know that the local residents are thrilled to bits about the walls, and have not felt any annoyance in terms of too many cars parked at the front of their homes.

In other news, a combination of local support, a constant stream of climber traffic, and perhaps a little bit of respect regarding the efforts you have put in to build your walls, has meant that the bouldering walls have, thus far (touch wood!) enjoyed a vandalism and theft-free existence. Yay!

Our dream of expanding the climbing community by means of using Burnley as an open invitation to "come and try" is definitely now coming true. Loads of beginners are having a crack at climbing at Burnley in their runners – and we have noted many of them coming back multiple times. We have kept a close eye on how these people are going on the routes we have provided, and have plans in place to add a new climb to the 30 degree wall that assists them with the transition into the world of overhanging terrain.

Bogong Equipment - one of Burnley's sponsors - has noted a distinct increase in the number of beginners coming into the store to purchase climbing shoes (such beginners have indicated to Bogong that they started climbing at Burnley). This is also fantastic news – we are really pleased that Bogong's support of the project is now paying off, and that the newcomers Burnley generates are finding their way to such a great store, where they can get fantastic advice on their intended purchase.

Well done to everyone once again. Let's keep this great networking up. Let's keep referring newcomers who are keen to acquire climbing shoes and chalkbags on to Bogong Equipment, and let's keep making the newcomers aware of the existence of climbing gyms in Melbourne (specifically our sponsors - Hardrock in Nunawading, and the Victorian Climbing Centre in Seaford) so they can try some nice tall climbs, as a contrast to their bouldering experience at Burnley.

A huge thankyou to everyone once again for helping make Burnley so successful.

Best wishes,

Jacqui Middleton
BURNLEY PROJECT
The Victorian Climbing Club working with Parks Victoria
climbingjac
10/07/2006
11:33:28 AM
Thanks Bluey - the comments by DrDevious did nothing but detriment the project and have been removed.

BurnleyBouldering
8/08/2006
4:02:31 PM
Re: The new faces of Burnley

Dear climbers,

I would like to take this opportunity to notify you that I am heading off to Europe for an extended stint for work and, of course, climbing. Burnley doesn’t run all by itself, so we've arranged a team of people to take care of things.

Three new committee members have been appointed to the VCC, specifically to look after Burnley. These are the people that will handle matters such as purchasing, maintenance and routesetting schedules, liaison with Parks Victoria and Wall sponsors, and communicating with you, the users of the wall. In addition to these people, we have a three-man strong support crew to assist with matters such as routesetting, spinning holds etc.

The collective skills and enthusiasm of these people will ensure the ongoing success of the facility. You'll see their smiling faces at Burnley, and I am sure you will extend to them the same fantastic support that I have enjoyed.

Should you wish to get in touch with the Burnley Bouldering Wall Crew, you can send an email to burnleybouldering@vicclimb.org.au and the email will automatically forward to all members of the team.

All the very best to the new wall crew – and a big thankyou to everyone for supporting the Burnley Project, and helping it become the great facility that it is today.

I shall send you a trip report once I get settled overseas to let you know what I'm up to!

Jacqui Middleton
Burnley Project
climbingjac
9/08/2006
9:04:49 AM
Dear climbers,

Please note that a climbing segment which includes the Burnley Bouldering Walls, will feature on Coxys Big Break this coming Sunday at 5.30pm on Channel 7.

Regards,

Jacqui Middleton

tnd
9/08/2006
11:21:33 AM
Wow! Lots of new climbers will be attracted to rush along and enrich our sponsors! Great!
simey
9/08/2006
12:13:04 PM
On 9/08/2006 tnd wrote:
>Wow! Lots of new climbers will be attracted to rush along and enrich our sponsors! Great!

That's a dumb comment.

Bob Saki
9/08/2006
12:27:18 PM
On 9/08/2006 tnd wrote:
>Wow! Lots of new climbers will be attracted to rush along and enrich our
>sponsors! Great!

on the flipside it may pave the way for more facilities like Burnley to get the green light.

Sabu
9/08/2006
4:44:45 PM
i might watch just so i can laugh at the jolly fat guy..... !!

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There are 452 messages in this topic.

 

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