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General Climbing Discussion

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Burnley: On Coxys Big Break Ch7 5.30pm this Sunday
9:02:34 AM
Dear climbers,

The 45 degree wall is now also open at Burnley. As such, the 30 degree wall and the 45 degree wall are now open for traffic. Please find below a summary of the routes that are on each wall thus far.

30 degree wall

Main Routes:

** All main routes on the 30 degree wall are designed such that they can be climbed in either direction. In general, left to right is easier and nicer climbing.

Black. Grade 18. Holds from Infinite Holds, Mingy Goat and Woodie Worx. Routesetter - Louisa Iacono.

Green. Grade 22. Holds (donated) from Tasty Holds. Routesetter - Jacqui Middleton.

Pink. Top row of holds is grade 23. Bottom row is grade 24. Pink can be done as a circular or figure 8 shaped circuit. Holds from Mingy Goat. This route was partially paid for by RMIT Outdoors Club. Routesetters - Martin Lama and Tim Marsh.

Yellow. Grade 25/26. Holds are Uncarved Block holds, acquired from a Melbourne woodie. Routesetters Tim Marsh, Martin Lama and Jacqui Middleton.

"Up" Problems

Red and Blue swirlies. Right hand end of wall. Holds from Infinite Holds, paid for by Afra Yang. Routesetter Joe O'Connell.

45 degree wall

Main Routes:

** Routes are designed to go from right to left.

Purple. Grade 24. Holds collected from woodies around the country and are from varying manufacturers, though most are Uncarved Block. Routesetter Jacqui Middleton.

Stone. Grade 25. Holds are Entreprise Holds, and were donated by climber Clarke Vincent. Routesetter Joe O'Connell.

Red. Grade 26/27. Holds are from Infinite Holds. Routesetter Phil Neville.

Blue. Grade 29?? Holds are from Mingy Goat. Routesetter Andy Ellemor.

"Up" Problems

Black. Left hand end of wall. Holds from Woodie Worx, paid for by Neil Monteith. Routesetter Phil Neville.

Turquoise. Right hand end of wall. Holds from Woodie Worx, paid for by Chris Toan. Routesetter Tim Marsh.

*** We will be putting these route descriptions up on the walls at Burnley very soon. Don't forget you can make up your own problems too! Apparently going from left to right on the bottom row of pink holds (30 degree wall), changing to green about half way along the wall is a really cool route.

Best wishes to all

Jacqui Middleton
Burnley Project
9:19:40 AM
Dear all,

A big thankyou today to Jamie Reardon who has donated a bunch of climbing holds to the project.

Jacqui Middleton
Burnley Project
11:02:44 AM
Dear climbers,

Please find below some pictures taken over the weekend. They should give you a good understanding of the kind of coverage (in terms of holds) that the Burnley walls now have.

It's all in the planning! Designing the 45 wall grade 24 route on the floor at home.

Justin Knight helps out the routesetting team, tightening up a hold on the 45 degree wall.

Spectacular stuff the 45 degree wall now sports holds!!

A view of the 45 wall at the end of Saturday (an additional route went up on Sunday).

Hatsu having a great time making up his own problems on the 30 degree wall.

Bonnie gives the black 18 her seal of approval.

Kathy is at Burnley a lot these days. She's a woman on a mission to get strong!

A climber (sorry I don't know your name!!) tries out the brand spanking new green route on the 30 degree wall.

Nick warms up on the 30 degree wall, while others take a break.

Tim Marsh's dogs pay us a visit at the crag. (The wire fencing in the background is really handy you can tie your dog's leash to it while you have a boulder).

Another climber shows up. Wait a minute, didn't I see him yesterday? This is how to get strong. Climb climb climb!

Mac Brunkhorst explains a sequence to Bec Hopkins.

The 45 degree wall now boasts four main routes and two up problems. There's more to come, too!

Scrub scrub scrub! The first toothbrush makes an appearance at Burnley, and James Scott-Bohana explains to the crowd that denture toothbrushes are not only better for scrubbing holds, but they are cheaper than normal toothbrushes!

A nice posse. The Sunday afternoon crew at the crag.

Tim Marsh (foreground) and Mac Brunckhorst (background) sample the new routes on the 45 wall.

Best wishes,

Jacqui Middleton
Burnley Project
3:36:13 PM
its good to see all the spoting going on.

maybe there should be a sign saying you must have a spotter while climbing
3:38:14 PM
What if you are there on your own- What are you gonna do, sit and wait til someone turns up? Folk know the risks. And besides, just standing behind someone waving your hands around doesn't mean you actually know how to spot properly. Done badly, spotting is more dangerous than falling and not getting a spot at all.

9:10:11 PM
Are we allowed to place our own holds on the wall? Or will this be frowned on?
8:46:25 AM
On 8/05/2006 Peacey wrote:
>Are we allowed to place our own holds on the wall? Or will this be frowned


Part of the reason is because: This wall is configured very differently to other walls. The first time a hold goes into a teenut can be a painstaking process. Sometimes we have to adjust the hole and/or the teenut. I do not want anyone trying to attach holds to the wall. If you do you will almost certainly stuff the hole and teenut and render that spot useless. If there are holds you'd like to have placed on the wall, please contact and I will arrange to collect them and have them added to the wall on your behalf.

2:18:01 PM
Dear climbers

This is just a quick note to let you know what will be happening at Burnley over the next few weeks.

More "up" problems to be added to the 30 and 45 degree walls.

Tee-nutting and painting of the vertical wall will commence.

We aim to add an additional "main route" will be added to the 45 degree wall (juggy - grade 23 or lower).

I am still pondering whether we should squeeze another main route in on the 30 degree wall. I was too tired to function yesterday, so I promise I'll ponder the matter a little more seriously this evening.

We are busily acquiring the necessary supplies to equip the vertical wall with routes.

Best Wishes,

Jacqui Middleton
Burnley Project.
8:36:05 AM
Thankyou very much to Mike O'Brien who identified me at the crag (ie Burnley) yesterday and asked if he could donate to the project - which he did - then and there. Thanks Mike!!!

Jacqui Middleton
Burnley Project

9:36:39 AM
I had a great session down there last night around midnight with a headtorch. Crispy friction conditions!
The 45 degree wall certainly needs an easier orute. I couldn't even do all the moves on the purple '24'.
9:50:36 AM
Hi Neil,

Good to hear :-)

As per a previous post, we are intending to put an easier route on the 45 wall :-)


12:12:56 PM
How good is the red traversze on the 45 wall... top shelf!

12:20:59 PM
On 11/05/2006 phil_nev wrote:
>How good is the red traversze on the 45 wall... top shelf!

To 'ard for this little chicken. I can't do all of the moves on any of the routes on the 45 degree wall!
12:34:46 PM
You just need to get stronger Neil...

They are all good problems, great work Phil!
3:55:14 PM
Dear climbers,

A new problem has been added to the 45 degree wall. A yellow route on Uncarved Block holds. It goes at grade 25 or easier, and was partially paid for by Michael O'Reilly.

Thankyou to Andy Ellemor for giving his time towards the setting of this problem.

Jacqui Middleton
Burnley Project.

4:24:20 PM
Can i suggest that the proposed 'easier' route on the 45 degree wall is more like a grade 20 - not 23. It
would be good for us mere mortals to have something they can climb without falling off evey two moves.
The old burnley wall was all about endurance - easy moves that went for a long way. It would be good to
have a few things to lap at the new Burnley.
4:27:14 PM
It is a 45 degree wall! I would be surprised even if with the largest holds you would be able to create a route that easy and have interesting sequences...
4:32:44 PM
Neil - as I said in my post above, I have ordered in a whole bunch of jugs to create a route which will be grade 23 or easier. I will set it in my boots, and ensure stomach muscles do not have to clench to execute moves. That should keep it easy as a 45 degree over hang permits.


Super Saiyan
4:36:16 PM
Hey neilo,

In the mean time you can come train on the Moon Board in geelong. its a nice 40 degrees overhung... and everything is easy.... honest!

Just ask StuckInLara


4:54:48 PM
On 11/05/2006 Dalai wrote:
>It is a 45 degree wall! I would be surprised even if with the largest holds
>you would be able to create a route that easy and have interesting sequences...

I've climbed plenty of grade 20 roofs in my time (ie Spinning Blades @ Nowra). Angle doesn't have to =
hard. I also don't think every route requires 'interesting sequences'. It just needs to get you pumped
spectacularly! I tend to boulder as training for longer endurance route climbing - as opposed to bouldering
for single move power training. That what i used ot use the old Burnley wall for anyway. I'm not
complaining - its a brilliant wall and everyones done a great job. I just reckon a few easier things would
be cool. There are a lot of much weaker climbers than me out there (and a lot of much stronger climbers
as well!!)

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There are 452 messages in this topic.


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