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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
Burnley: On Coxys Big Break Ch7 5.30pm this Sunday
James
1/05/2006
4:39:11 PM
On 1/05/2006 climbingjac wrote:
>Cheers James for the advice re the possible reachiness. We can ammend
>if need be. Can we get some more thoughts on this everyone?

no need to change them! being 6'2" I get very bunched up on lots of boulder problems - these are a nice
change. short-@#%$ can just jump if they can't reach... :)
darkxst
1/05/2006
5:09:19 PM
no need to change the them ;) but if you do is it possible to just add foot holds so it doesnt create a horrible cramped up problem for us tall people!
darkxst
1/05/2006
5:12:32 PM
hey jac,
are there any plans for lighting to be installed ?
the problems so far are sweet, well cant really comment on the 24 and 25 but the rest are
climbingjac
1/05/2006
5:41:52 PM
The lighting issue is on my list of things to maybe look at - but that is "value add" stuff. My first mission is to get all three walls finished, and with routes set on them. If after that we have any money left, I'll ponder lighting. It may however come down to sacrificing holds for the sake of lighting. Anyway, when we get to that stage if it is even an option maybe we can all vote on it or something.

brat
2/05/2006
7:20:15 AM
Leave it as is, need to practice those "after dark epics", anyway, real climbers have head torches! :)
climbingjac
3/05/2006
11:53:27 AM
Dear climbers,

The first 45 degree wall routes are scheduled for routsetting this weekend.

Please be sure to list any feedback regarding the routes on the 30 degree wall prior to this weekend so we can ensure we set suitable routes on the 45 wall.

Feedback can be positive or negative.

Examples of some feedback we have received so far, and what we've done about it are as follows:

---------------------------

Re: a hold at the top of the pink route

Issue: "I found that my fingers got stuck in that sidecling, and I thought that might be a bit ugly if I fell and my fingers couldn't evacuate from the hold"

Resolution: We rotated the hold a bit so that the pocket was pointing downwards a little, such that fingers can "fall out" of the pocket during a fall.

Re: reachiness of moves

Issue: Some climbers reporting certain moves being a bit reachy, even for a person who is not short.

Resolution: These people are actually happy with this variety, as being taller, they often find themselves squashed up on routes in general. Short people and people with less ability to generate solid body tension have been placed on the routes to test whether in general, a climber can sort themselves out by shifting the feet etc. Decision made to leave routes as is for the moment pending any further feedback. Additional routes to be placed on the wall will be set less reachy in order to provide variety in techniques required to climb on the 30 degree wall.

During routesetting process

Issue: "A big undercling/dropknee combo would be awesome right there!"

Resolution: Such a move is not suitable high up on the wall, as due to the body positioning intiated, it is impossible for the climber to get into a suitable landing stance during a fall. These techniques are very important during climbing, and we'd like people to be able to learn them at Burnley, so we'll keep these sorts of moves close to the ground.

---------------------------

Please lodge all feedback here!!

Regards,

Jacqui Middleton
Burnley Project
darkxst
3/05/2006
2:27:18 PM
>Re: a hold at the top of the pink route
>
>Issue: "I found that my fingers got stuck in that sidecling, and I thought
>that might be a bit ugly if I fell and my fingers couldn't evacuate from
>the hold"
>
>Resolution: We rotated the hold a bit so that the pocket was pointing
>downwards a little, such that fingers can "fall out" of the pocket during
>a fall.

is this the sidecling at the start (left end) of the pink route, if so my fingers are too big to fit in and get stuck, but i am sure that if they did fit, they wouldnt come out in a fall..
pharmamatt
3/05/2006
2:33:52 PM
i would have to second that!

there's definite possiblity of getting a finger getting jammed.

i think its the second or fourth high hold on the pink route from the left
dalai
3/05/2006
2:42:57 PM
Didn't like that hold if it's the one I think it is - but was an early replacement after some strong person decided to break the original...
climbingjac
3/05/2006
2:46:46 PM
It is towards the right hand end of the wall - top row of holds, about 4 holds in, yes. This is the one we turned to deal with the issue.

I'll also check out the sidecling on the left end of the wall.

Thanks people! This is good important feedback :-)

Chuck Norris
3/05/2006
9:12:26 PM
Something i have seen work well on other bouldering walls is to have a bunch of VERY small footers
bolted directly into the wood on the lower part of the wall - it was good in two regards...firstly helped short
%@$z with some intermediate footers if the stretches were too far, and also doing an established
problem with only the small footers usually added a couple of grades which was good for a bit of variety.

nmonteith
3/05/2006
9:22:52 PM
It would be good to have a set of campus rungs built into the wall at some stage. The wooden rungs on
the old burnley wall were always great for a post-boulder workout. Especially when it was too cold to use
the normal holds!
climbingjac
4/05/2006
8:29:07 AM
On 3/05/2006 stugang wrote:
>bunch of VERY small footers
>bolted directly into the wood on the lower part of the wall

We do have a bag full of bolt on footers. They'll probably be the last thing to go on, but they will definitely go on :-) The order I aim to work in is to get the main routes on the walls (minimum 3 main routes per wall), then boulder problems, then fill the remaining teenuts as best we can with random coloured holds that have been donated, then add the scew-on holds.
climbingjac
4/05/2006
8:32:42 AM
On 3/05/2006 nmonteith wrote:
>It would be good to have a set of campus rungs built into the wall at some
>stage.

Noted - cheers Neil. We'll get all the holds up first as a matter of priority. In general we are not aiming to put things such as campus boards, hangboards, chinup boards in, for fear it places Burnley directly in competition with the gyms we don't want that. However, once the intitial spec of "building three climbing walls with heaps of holds on them" is completed, we will review the impact to the gyms and contemplate value-add things such as campus rungs etc.

nmonteith
4/05/2006
9:01:34 AM
On 4/05/2006 climbingjac wrote:
>. for fear it places Burnley directly in competition
>with the gyms we don't want that.

I don't see why the public facility should be curtailed to make the gym owners happy. Thats like saying a
public swimming pool can only be 25m long because we don't want to compete against Sea World. I
would have thought that the aim was to try and make the best facility for the least amount of $.
climbingjac
4/05/2006
9:58:29 AM
Understand your thoughts: however this is a massive project and the scope doesn't include campus rungs. If I stopped and diverted to do these value add things along the way, we'd never get the walls finished. That said, there is nothing to say these requests can't be readdressed when the walls are finished. You're request is definitely a worthy one, and is up for consideration :-)

jac
climbingjac
4/05/2006
10:22:27 AM
Hi all,

Just to clarify suggestions such as Neil's are not being ignored, they are just not all something it is possible to address in addition to getting the three walls up complete with routes and boulder problems. Not if we want to see that phase finished any time this lifetime, anyway. Suggestions such as Neil's are being documented such that they can be reviewed at the conclusion of "The Burnley Project". At that time, the VCC will look at all these additional requests and determine which of them are possible to deliver as a "Phase 2" type project. So in summary, definitely make the suggestions. Don't feel unloved if you don't see your suggestion appear on the wall right away. It is definitely being noted.

Best wishes

Jacqui Middleton
Burnley Project

PreferKnitting
4/05/2006
11:25:32 AM

>On 4/05/2006 climbingjac wrote:
>>. for fear it places Burnley directly in competition
>>with the gyms we don't want that.

On 4/05/2006 nmonteith wrote:
>I don't see why the public facility should be curtailed to make the gym
>owners happy. Thats like saying a
>public swimming pool can only be 25m long because we don't want to compete
>against Sea World. I
>would have thought that the aim was to try and make the best facility
>for the least amount of $.

I think Jac has a point, there are people out there who have invested heaps into creating awesome gyms around melbourne and it would be a shame for those gyms to be affected.

i don't think that the design of burnley has been curtailed because of the fear of the gym owners retribution. Rather it's a great attempt at working in conjuction with the other businesses that help support our interest. It would be good to see this attitude and thoughtfullness continue.


climbingjac
4/05/2006
4:13:02 PM
A big thankyou to Scott Clark who has donated a bunch of (new!) holds he never quite got around to putting on his own woodie.

Jacqui Middleton
Burnley Project
climbingjac
5/05/2006
12:57:40 PM
Dear climbers,

Please find below the routsetting schedule for this weekend. Be sure to plan your bouldering session around the work so you remain unaffected.

Saturday 6th May

Routesetting taking place on 45 degree wall all day. 30 degree wall remains unaffected and is open for business :-)

Sunday 7th May

Routesetting taking place on 45 degree wall until 2pm. 30 degree wall remains unaffected and is open for business :-)

Thankyou,

Jacqui Middleton
Burnley Project

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There are 452 messages in this topic.

 

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