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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
Burnley: On Coxys Big Break Ch7 5.30pm this Sunday

damon23
23/05/2006
5:26:25 PM
Where abouts is this project?

nmonteith
23/05/2006
5:51:48 PM
On 23/05/2006 damon23 wrote:
>Where abouts is this project?

Full guide is here...
http://www.chockstone.org/Melbourne/BurnleyGuidebook.pdf
climbingjac
26/05/2006
1:14:34 PM
Dear climbers,

We will be routesetting on the vertical wall tomorrow. If all goes well, it should be open for business by Sunday.

This wall will be THE wall that brings new people into our sport.

Jacqui Middleton
BURNLEY PROJECT.
drdeviousII
26/05/2006
4:22:21 PM
On 26/05/2006 climbingjac wrote:
>This wall will be THE wall that brings new people into our sport.

I don't see the attraction of more climbers. I quite like it just the way it is.

Peacey
26/05/2006
4:27:22 PM
I think what Jac means is that the vertical wall will have climbs that, weaker /inexperienced climbers will be able to hone their skills on. Which is a good thing for our sport, as it allows for people to train and become stronger on the walls.

Cheers

Tristan
Fish Boy
26/05/2006
4:39:41 PM
The fisherman will be able to have a go too.
tastybigmac
26/05/2006
4:49:50 PM
i want to see them catch a 3 eye fish one day!
Fish Boy
26/05/2006
6:51:14 PM
Just go to one of thier restaurants on Vic St.

Peacey
28/05/2006
8:13:17 PM
I would like to say that all 3 walls at Burnley are works of forearm pumping art!! All involved with the project should feel proud as they have acheived a lot!

Cheers

Tristan
martyn
28/05/2006
10:25:30 PM
and at last the tired unfit older climbers can also get to play. Thanks everyone who has made such a great facility. Sometime soon I will manage the "easy" route on the 30* wall so PLEASE don't change it yet!
climbingjac
29/05/2006
8:54:30 AM
Dear climbers,

Thanks to a hard working team that pulled an 11 hour shift on Saturday, the vertical wall is now open for business. The wall is equipped with five routes, and due to some lovely juggy holds nice and low down, it even caters for short people (eg age 3). All routes on this wall are designed such that they can be done in runners, which will ensure that newcomers can have a decent play on it.

During the course of the weekend, a couple more "up" problems went up too…

An easy juggy blue route on the right hand end of the 30 degree wall; a moderate purple route on the right end of the 30 wall; a hard black route on the right hand end of the 45 wall; a moderate to hard pink route on the left end of the 45 wall; and a smattering of tiny green holds on the left arête of the 45 wall.

Routesetters will be doing some work throughout the course of this week to add routes to the wall. It is anticipated that by Friday we'll have a new route on the 45 wall; of difficulty in between that of the white route and the purple route. The route will be made up of burnt orange coloured holds.

The 30 wall might also be getting some new routes this week; subject to the availability of the allocated routesetter.

During the course of this week, the temporary worksite fencing will be removed, thus making it more obvious that it is a free public facility. Additionally a contractor has been arranged to attend the site and build up the ground level to make it flush with the mats, eliminating trip hazards. This contractor will also be compacting the ground so that the surface is much harder. This should mean less dust gets spread around and the area will be nice n clean!!

Please find below some piccies of the vertical wall. Thankyou heaps to Saturday's team that helped bring it to life…. Louisa Iacono, Steve Ford, Meily Effendy, Clarke and Kate Vincent, Ben Wright, Heather Murray, and Jeff Triplett.


Go go go! Routesetters hustle to get the first of the routes up on the wall before midday. This would allow us the luxury of borrowing the odd child from the bike track to sample the routes for us.






Many of the routesetters called in for duty on the vertical wall were not tall people. In other words we are short! This ensures we don't set things too reachy for the kids. Here, Meily Effendy is working on the juggy green route.




Open for business. Experienced climbers warm up on the wall, while families drop in to have a go in their runners. You will see from the pictures that there is a red route on the wall. This is the easiest route; and is below grade 10. It has two rows of handholds, which means even someone as short as a four year old can climb it!
















Best wishes to all

Jacqui Middleton
BURNLEY PROJECT
darkxst
31/05/2006
10:17:49 AM
what are the grades of the routes on the vertical wall ?
climbingjac
31/05/2006
11:39:18 AM
Approximate thus far :

Red: something sub-grade 10.
Green: grade 12ish
White: grade 15
Black: 17/18
Blue: 18
Fish Boy
31/05/2006
5:40:34 PM
Jac, I reckon black is a grade of two harder than blue.

Didier Bertold was there today!
Dalai
31/05/2006
7:53:38 PM
I picked up a few items of clothing there this evening that were left behind. PM me if you think they were yours including their description and I will organise to get them back to you.

Also for those venturing down. Although it's inner suburbia and a fair amount of litter floats by everyday, could you please take your rubbish (and any you find) with you? By keeping the area as clean as possible will only help our standing with the locals and the authorities.
climbingjac
1/06/2006
9:09:47 AM
There have also been two chalkbags left behind at Burnley and are now in our "lost property". If you've lost anything lately, perhaps email burnleybouldering@vicclimb.org.au and the next staff member to be attending the wall will arrange for you to be able to collect your things.

Good call on the litter dalai :-)
climbingjac
2/06/2006
11:54:59 AM
Dear climbers,

Please note that a routesetter will be present at Burnley tomorrow morning (Saturday), adding a new route to the 30 degree wall. The wall will NOT be closed during this process - the routesetter will work around you.

Please also note that a new (burnt orange colour) route has been added to the 45 degree wall. Thus far it is estimated at easy grade 22.

Best wishes,

Jacqui Middleton
BURNLEY PROJECT

Peacey
2/06/2006
11:58:24 AM
Will there be any other grade 17-18 climbs put on the 30 degree wall? The black 18 is fun! Will there be any other climbs placed on the wall within that grade in the near future?

Cheers

Tristan
climbingjac
2/06/2006
1:57:49 PM
No. We only have limited space, so we're doing our best to sort of put one of each grade, so people can progress onwards and upwards.
john s
4/06/2006
5:18:40 PM
had a great hour or so thrashing around at burnley this arvo. great job on the new routes that have gone up in the last week or so. A couple of moves on the the black on the vertical wall reminded me of the low traverse on trinity wall up at Melbourne Uni, and that made me wonder if this old favourite of the late 70s/early 80s is still open. Does anyone know? It is a lot closer to home than burnley now that my enthusiasm for outdoor innercity climbing has been rekindled

John

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