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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
Burnley: On Coxys Big Break Ch7 5.30pm this Sunday

nmonteith
30/04/2006
6:38:10 PM
Hatman donated lots of holds to this project - so i am sure he would like to know that his investment
doesn't get pinched on day 1!

tmarsh
30/04/2006
6:50:54 PM
They are safe and sound. The exact methods used to keep them from being nicked aren't eally a suitable topic for online discussion. That's all I meant by my comment.

jono
30/04/2006
6:55:41 PM
i came and i cranked and it was damn good fun! i'll be back again soon to donate some more sweaty goodness to the plastic holds.

tmarsh
30/04/2006
7:00:18 PM
Those that you don't rip clean off the wall, that is. So Hatman, when I said your holds were safe and sound I meant from would-be thieves, not the freak of nature that is jono.

nmonteith
30/04/2006
9:33:18 PM
Press release!

More first official photos of the new wall are here...
http://neilshaulbag.smugmug.com/gallery/1413315
hatsu
30/04/2006
9:33:50 PM
Had a visit at Bunley today. Though it was raining, fair number of people were there.
Thanks to Jacqui for the great effort and thanks to all everyone there for warm hospitality. Had a great time (^o^)/
climbingjac
1/05/2006
9:01:18 AM
Hatman I have sent you a PM to address your question.

Cheers,

Jacqui
climbingjac
1/05/2006
9:06:35 AM
Dear climbers,

The weekend was a grand success.

On Saturday, the wooden panels went up on the vertical wall. We will begin the teenutting process on this wall next weekend.

Also on the vertical wall, the wooden edging went in around the mats below the vertical wall.

Three routes went up on the 30 degree wall. All routes are designed so that you can climb them in either direction.

Black
Juggy route, graded at 17/18 going from left to right, or grade 18 from right to left.

Pink
Circuit route, designed so you can climb around in circles, or in a figure 8 shape, in any direction. The top row of holds go at grade 22, the bottom row at approx 24.

Yellow
Approx grade 25. Fantastically bouldery.

It was great to see the eager beavers turn up on Saturday evening the moment routesetting was finished, ready to have a shot on the new wall. Sunday's turnout was even better!

Jac
climbingjac
1/05/2006
9:08:49 AM
So - what's next?

Access to the area that contains the 30 and 45 degree walls is no longer restricted. This area is now OPEN to the public, and you can climb there whenever you like. Access to the vertical wall is still restricted as it is still under construction.

We aim to get three routes up on the 45 wall by the end of the week.

Then, each week, we aim to add a new route or boulder problem to at least one of the walls.

We will not close two walls at the same time for routesetting purposes. In other words, we will not create a situation where you turn up for a boulder and find all the walls closed for routesetting.

I will post information on this forum regarding proposed routesetting schedules.

Best wishes to all,

Jacqui

Rupert
1/05/2006
9:24:28 AM
A huge congratulations to Jac and all those others that have made this happen. You guys have clearly done an amazing job. Well done!
climbingjac
1/05/2006
9:39:44 AM
Progress pics of the vertical wall

Steve Ford gets to work with installing batons on the vertical wall


Precision is everything in this business – Leigh Colless pays attention to fine detail on the bottom rung of batons


Go go go! Steve Ford is happy with the speed of progress


Steve and Leigh popped around the corner to routesetting land and said "Jac – can you come here a second – we have to show you something." I thought "Oh no, don't tell me we've put the Chemset studs (bolts) in the wrong place…" so around the corner I go and ta da! They've finished panelling the wall – already! Great job guys!

climbingjac
1/05/2006
9:48:28 AM
Routsetting pics – 30 degree wall

Louisa Iacono turned up for work at the crack of dawn to get started with the setting of the black 18.




Meanwhile, back at the ranch – or should I say, at the other end of the mats – the pink holds are lined up ready and waiting to be attended to


Martin Lama and Tim Marsh team up to produce the pink circuit route. The guys did a great job. Not only did they produce a circuit that could be climbed in either direction, but you can also instead climb it as a figure 8 shaped circuit as well! So I guess we got four routes for the price of one! Well done guys!!


Ah the serenity. Here's a pic of a regatta in progress on the river.


Sustenance is important in this business. Specifically, sustenance in the form of jelly snakes!!


Tim Marsh multi-tasking… routesetting AND eating jelly snakes!


Paul Williams and Ti Hoang show up to try out the new routes




10.4 horizontal metres of 30 degree goodness


A few close-ups of the holds themselves…












climbingjac
1/05/2006
12:48:17 PM
30 degree wall is now open for business.

As per Neil's post above...


More first official photos of the new wall are here...
http://neilshaulbag.smugmug.com/gallery/1413315
Rob668
1/05/2006
1:08:52 PM
Hey Jac et al,

Well done everyone with getting this thing up.

Is there any thoughts on a Climbing Etiquette being posted on each of the walls to help non-climbers and climbers interact in a friendly manner?

Can't wait to get my hands dirty on the problems.

Rob
climbingjac
1/05/2006
1:21:20 PM
On 1/05/2006 Rob668 wrote:
>Is there any thoughts on a Climbing Etiquette being posted on each of
>the walls to help non-climbers and climbers interact in a friendly manner?

Some basic signage regarding route descriptions, how to spot etc will go up. The priority right now is to get the holds up on the wall. Value add stuff can be done later.
Lurking Dave
1/05/2006
1:32:11 PM
Its looking great Jac, we were down there late Saturday night, headtorch traverses :-)

Thanks again for all the effort, really appreciated.

LD
climbingjac
1/05/2006
1:45:40 PM
Fantastic Dave - thankyou to you also for taking on a prominent role in the working bee where mats were laid below the 45 degree and vertical walls.

I'd be really keen for everyone to let us know via this forum that they have visited Burnley, and to provide feedback. Feedback regarding the routes etc is incredibly important before we surge ahead and put more routes up on the walls.

Thanks all

Jac
James
1/05/2006
3:52:27 PM
went & had a play on the routes this arvo, overall I thought they were great. Grades are on the spot
(IMO), but I wonder if shorter people might find some moves a bit harder. It felt like I got a bit stretched
out at times (although I'm not a particularly strong boulderer, so this could just be my shoddy technique).

the traverses are great for endurance, though to compliment them, I assume some up problems will be
added in due course (?). can't wait for more routes to be added!
climbingjac
1/05/2006
4:21:15 PM
Yes, the 30 wall will get at least one more full-length problem, plus some up problems.

Before that though, we want to get three routes up on the 45 wall. Then people will have something to climb on when the routesetters show up to add routes to the 30 wall and it is inaccessible for a couple of hours. We do not want to create a scenario where someone turns up for a boulder, and all of Burnley is closed for routesetting. We want to make sure at least one wall is entirely free.
climbingjac
1/05/2006
4:21:47 PM
Cheers James for the advice re the possible reachiness. We can ammend if need be. Can we get some more thoughts on this everyone?

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