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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 28
Tick definitions
10:01:00 AM
On 22/02/2005 Breezy wrote:
>This is apparently a quite common occurence in Europe, so as both climbers
>may attempt the onsight.

Yeah, the onsight ascent is highly coveted in Europe Ė as it should be. No beta (otherwise, often times, you may as well be red-pointing).

However it doesnít matter to them that thereís chalk on the route or someone elseís draws on it. And Iíd agree with that - assuming itís a route without any trad placements.

12:57:18 PM
But have you ever found some info missleading you though that a hold your partner used look big, but turned out to be crimper...? Or the rest ledge was really off-balance, so when you get there, expecting a nice cosy recovery, you're still having trouble hanging on?

Could it be possible that sometimes (and I stress sometimes), that leading second is harder, not easier, than leading the route first??

Maybe we need a new term to express how a route can be lead (If there aren't enough allready), like an opposite to on-sight? Dunno, maybe miss-sight, due to miss-information??

1:02:14 PM
Maybe we need a new term to express how a route can be lead (If there aren't enough allready), like an opposite to on-sight? Dunno, maybe miss-sight, due to miss-information??



1:03:39 PM
They are always better ascents in hind-sight!

1:26:19 PM
the only tick i will acknowledge is the solo blind-sight.
2:21:24 PM
This fastidiousness of style of ascent is really a luxury afforded by the safety and convenience of modern climbing. Way back when, what ever got you to the top of the cliff safely went. If you find yourself on big adventure routes or in the mountains, this still applies. At the risk of being stampeded by a hoard of indignant elephants, I reckon we can basically divide ascents into onsights (ground up with basically no knowledge of whatís ahead, but I wonít be pedantic about not watching the first climber, because if my belayer isnít watching me whilst Iím on the sharp end, Iíll throw my 4.5 camalot at them) and all the shenanigans of redpoints, pinkpoints, yo yo, flash, dogging, working, preplaced gear etc etc are just variations on the theme of whatever it takes to haul your carcass up there. I know what style I like to climb in (although Iíve done my fair share of frigging around too) and what I respect the most, but to each their own Ö

BTW, donít expect to get a lot of useful beta out of watching me climb either because I inevitably avoid laybacking like the plague and will throw any available part of my body in a crack in preference to face holds, probably adding a few grades to the climb and laughter to anyone watching, but it keeps me happy.

4:08:34 PM
Your loud vocal outbursts would put most people off Wendy!

5:01:05 PM
Well said Wendy.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 28
There are 28 messages in this topic.


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