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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 49
Author
Australian Climbs with great Mythology
dried rat
9/02/2005
12:00:34 AM
Yes to your first question I had [still have] my son and Tony was the other guy, I have a half dozen or so old VHS tapes all getting mouldy if you would like I will send them to you , if you can rescue them some how , I have Chris Piesker , Roxan Wells , I think the day down at Kangaroo point with Tam Balla , plus heaps of just footage of Frog Butt.,and other sundry stuff , and I think Tony has a few of stills .

nmonteith
9/02/2005
7:14:08 AM
You son must be a teenager by now! - i would love to dub those VHS tapes up to something better - and put the video on the web. Send em to 20 Thistlethwaite Street, South Melbourne 3205.

Phil Box
9/02/2005
9:37:58 AM
On 8/02/2005 manacubus wrote:
>> I dont seem to have read much about cliffs in Queensland other than Frog
>
>There's other cliffs? Must look into that...


Hahahahahaha, ahhh too funny. Wipes tears from cheeks, looks around in case anyone is staring.

oweng
9/02/2005
12:25:54 PM
On 9/02/2005 Phil Box wrote:
>On 8/02/2005 manacubus wrote:
>>> I dont seem to have read much about cliffs in Queensland other than
>Frog
>>
>>There's other cliffs? Must look into that...
>
>
>Hahahahahaha, ahhh too funny. Wipes tears from cheeks, looks around in
>case anyone is staring.

I have heared rumors of a super cliff in Queensland called Kangaroo Point. Perhaps you guys could check that out ;-). Indeed there was even evidence of some other crags on the mighty qrank, but the NetNanny at Hobart Council wont let me look at that any more. Good old netnanny must be sencing evil goings on behind the scenes at that site....
dried rat
9/02/2005
12:57:43 PM
it shall be done ! just give me a few weeks to clean up and I will send them , do you remember the taxi ? that is also on one of the tapes , as you know with filming theres a lot of crap so be prepared to be bored a lot , also could you edit out my boy and put him on disk?, Joshua is 11 now ,when you meet us he was 2 years old.Tony has moved from QLD into NSW , we are currently planing a road trip from Port Maquarie to Arapiles so with luck we shall meet again .
PS . $$$$ let me know if any costs are involved .

nmonteith
9/02/2005
2:08:00 PM
11 - amazing. - I will transfer the lot to DVD and send you a copy! (do you have the DV originals?). There was some great footage of some classic climbs- and i am sure Chock"stoners" would love to see it. No costs involved as i can do it all through work.

tmarsh
9/02/2005
2:10:12 PM
God help you Neil if anyone from your work reads this site...

rich
9/02/2005
4:17:19 PM
On 9/02/2005 tmarsh wrote:
>God help you Neil if anyone from your work reads this site...
or any other employer of a regular user when they look at the time posted and do the mental sums of posting time (especially when research is involved;)

Phil Box
10/02/2005
8:23:29 AM
On 9/02/2005 oweng wrote:
>I have heared rumors of a super cliff in Queensland called Kangaroo Point.
>Perhaps you guys could check that out ;-). Indeed there was even evidence
>of some other crags on the mighty qrank, but the NetNanny at Hobart Council
>wont let me look at that any more. Good old netnanny must be sencing evil
>goings on behind the scenes at that site....

The net nanny may be picking up some coarse language on qurank.

Back to Kangaroo Point cliffs. Yes it is a supercrag. Best in the world I`m told. Better than Arapilies. (Can you see me crossing my fingers behind my back.)

Actually it`s a pile of a quarry but what makes it unique is the fact that it is directly across the river from the CBD. It is hugely popular, some call it the best indoor outdoor gym in the world. Park right at the base, toilet facilities right there, picnic and barbecue plates available if you queue up to use them that is. Huge bollards at the top put in by a sympathetic council and get this, lights for night time climbing. Most any night will see scores of climbers tackling the clifflines. Safer Cliffs Queensland is conducting some rebolting efforts on the cliff to create some fantastic low grade safe climbs for the erstwhile budding N00B!!1111 leader. Awesome location right beside the river which makes for a unique belay stance at the top of the cliff. Talk to the tourists behind the wall up top whilst watching the river traffic flow by and gaze at the bustle of the city. Definitely worth a visit if you are on a tight schedule.

Other Queensland crags worth a visit is the Glasshouse Mountains just north of Brisvegas. Mt. Tibrogargans south east corner is a mere 7 to 10 minutes walk from the carpark and it now boasts a couple of class sport areas as well as some old school trad classics. We are talking multi pitch on a volcanic plug of a mountain. This mountain looms over the old highway like a dark foreboding gorilla. If you have seen this mountain then you will know what I am talking about as you drive by towards the Sunshine Coast. Definitely worth a visit too.

So yes Virginia there really is other crags in Queensland other than Frog.

neats
10/02/2005
8:33:58 AM
Tibro looks like a big scary monster from the road!

Phil Box
10/02/2005
8:42:46 AM
On 10/02/2005 neats wrote:
>Tibro looks like a big scary monster from the road!

Meh, itsa pussy if you know how to aproach it. It can certainly turn on you though and bite big chunks out of you. It has a certain mystique about it that puts the fear of God into people when they get off route.

The Caves Route at grade 4 or 5 is an awesome introduction to the mountain. Just ask Mike what he thought of the Caves Route.

Nick Kaz
10/02/2005
8:44:56 AM
On 10/02/2005 Phil Box wrote:
> budding N00B!!1111leader.

Too much time on RC.com Phill.
James
10/02/2005
8:57:11 PM

I always liked the 'dreamtime' story of the Glass House's.... its on this sign under the errie east face of Tibro....


LittleJames
10/02/2005
10:21:50 PM
I love myths about mountains/landscapes. I think my favourite is the Maori myth of Taranaki and Tongariro. The two mountains fought over Tongariro's wife, and Taranaki ended up going west to sook about it (the explanation for the Taranaki region's generally shite weather).

The idea of a mountain doing the walk of shame kinda appeals to me. :D

oweng
11/02/2005
8:10:19 AM
My god, I hope im not run-out on a cruxy bulge when one of those mountains decides to turn around to have a look at its neihbour, or when two fueding mountains decode to hug and make up!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
11/02/2005
11:01:28 AM
On 3/02/2005 oweng wrote:
>I'm interested in routes that have something distinctive about them that fires the imagination, be it an epic story of the first ascent, a distinctive piece of rock architecture on the route that you just have to experience first hand, or something more mundane like remnant pieces of unusual fixed protection from the first ascent.

You have summed up my inclinations with the above statement oweng.

>What Australian routes out there have a great mythology associated with
>them?
Too many to list, depending on ones definition of 'great'!

>What routes are you inspired to do by the stories you have heard about other peoples ascents of them?
Again, too many to list; but I am enjoying the fact that I know I have them ahead of me yet.

>Are there routes out there that you know technically that you would be able to do, but that some aspect of the mythology of the route (stories of injuries, loose rock, marginal protection etc) has thus far kept you off?
Nope, none. The greater the mythology the greater the magnet!
dried rat
12/02/2005
1:54:57 AM
Mythology and the sacred stones ???'spooky music..thunder!!!...just before crossing into QLD theres a region of mountains around the Nymbim Rocks [sacred ground ??]ask around atthe township of Nymbin and you are sure to get permission from the landowners, and Jerusalem mountains drive up any dirt road and you will see cliffs galore , climbable I dont know?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
2/12/2011
12:29:09 PM
~> Just bumping a good thread, even if it is a blast from the past...

Wallwombat has been stoking my interest lately with fabulous adventure cliffs and boulders that he claims are guarded by large angry brown snakes, ...and widewet&slippery tells me that Nangar makes Dogface seem like a walk in the Park!

Superstu
2/12/2011
12:42:23 PM
On 5/02/2005 oweng wrote:

>Superstu wrote:
>
>"There is that route Japhilion at Coles Bay........"
>
>Whilst I havent done Japhilion yet, ive done a 15 (phnises) and a 19 (griphon)
>that are just left and just right of that route. Phnises had one pitch
>100m of the deck, with a questionable belay (wires in pieces of rock held
>into a flared crack by dirt), with a 25m runnout to a little bush growing
>out of blank granite, then another 25m runnout to the next belay. Thank
>god I was belaying! Grade 15 slabbing may not be that hard, and you may
>never fall off a grade 15 slab move, but by the same notion you never feel
>secure.
>
>Ive heared Japhilion is better protected than many routes on the Hazards
>Main Wall, but is still run out by Tasmanian standards (where most people
>climb on bommer dolerite crack routes, and hence have a different definition
>of well protected than people who climb alot on granite).

That was all in 2005. I finally found myself in Tassie last summer and got around to doing Japhilion. Turned out to be a pleasant stroll in a pretty setting! Oh well!



benjenga
2/12/2011
4:25:10 PM
I am glad this old post was dug up and dusted off. Makes my palms all sweaty thinking about it.
Ps what is the fine for doing the fear these days? The more I read about it the more I really want to do it. Mike??

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 49
There are 49 messages in this topic.

 

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