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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 49
Author
Australian Climbs with great Mythology

Doug
2/12/2011
4:55:15 PM
On 2/12/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>~> Just bumping a good thread, even if it is a blast from the past...
>
Okay, I'll bite and here's another one from Tassie. Incipience (22) at Freycinet. First ascent by Peter Jackson and Michael McHugh in 1970. Despite being clearly visible from the (now burnt-down) shop and Post Office in downtown Coles Bay to climbers enjoying an ice cream whilst gazing across at the Hazards, virtually saying, "Here I am, come climb me", it took another five years and no less a climber than Hot Henry Barber to nab the FFA.
If I'm not getting my mythologies mixed up, I believe that Jackson wore full motorcycling leathers on the first ascent in a nod to the flesh-shredding nature of the rock on that side of the Hazards (I think I read that in an article by Bobbo, so there may be a bit of amplification of the truth there).
Doug Fife took a massive (flesh-shredding) plummet from near the top in the early '80s, only adding to the mystique - especially amongst local climbers. Gerry Narkowicz wrote a terrific article in Rock a few years ago that further highlighted the impressive reputation of the route. I don't think it gets many ascents, and those who do have a go are pretty comfortable at the grade.
kieranl
Online Now
2/12/2011
5:01:53 PM
On 2/12/2011 Doug Bruce wrote:
>If I'm not getting my mythologies mixed up, I believe that Jackson wore
>full motorcycling leathers on the first ascent in a nod to the flesh-shredding
>nature of the rock on that side of the Hazards (I think I read that in
>an article by Bobbo, so there may be a bit of amplification of the truth
>there).
I thought that story was from the first ascent of Pourquoi but may be mistaken.
Will_P
2/12/2011
5:06:58 PM
At the risk of a stern talking-to from the reposting police (or the 'off-topic police', who seem to be fairly permissive in the Chockstone world of law and order) - Mr Moonteeth, did you ever get the films discussed and put them on DVD and/or these here internets? I'm guessing this was stuff from the mid-1990's. I'd love to buy/borrow/download a copy, there were some classic names mentioned, and, y'know, the films the kids these days make, what with the hair, and the music, and the rabbit suits...

nmonteith
2/12/2011
6:29:54 PM
On 2/12/2011 Will_P wrote:
>At the risk of a stern talking-to from the reposting police (or the 'off-topic
>police', who seem to be fairly permissive in the Chockstone world of law
>and order) - Mr Moonteeth, did you ever get the films discussed and put
>them on DVD and/or these here internets? I'm guessing this was stuff from
>the mid-1990's. I'd love to buy/borrow/download a copy, there were some
>classic names mentioned, and, y'know, the films the kids these days make,
>what with the hair, and the music, and the rabbit suits...

No sadly. I never received anything.
widewetandslippery
2/12/2011
6:47:52 PM
On 2/12/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>~> Just bumping a good thread, even if it is a blast from the past...
>
>Wallwombat has been stoking my interest lately with fabulous adventure
>cliffs and boulders that he claims are guarded by large angry brown snakes,
>...and widewet&slippery tells me that Nangar makes Dogface seem like a
>walk in the Park!
M9 the dogface is a road side crag, nangar a crag you see in the distance from the road. Thank god I don't believe in a god or self. I'd go back! Never believe. The story in joe friends book got me up gorgon. 3rd shot.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
2/12/2011
8:19:59 PM
On 2/12/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>M9 the dogface is a road side crag, nangar a crag you see in the distance
>from the road. Thank god I don't believe in a god or self. I'd go back!
>Never believe. The story in joe friends book got me up gorgon. 3rd shot.

Don't worry, I am a non-believer from way back(!), ... ~> proof is in the fact that I have 'done' Nangar, and still aid climb from time to time! ~> plus Joe Friend's book, Classic Climbs of Australia, has pride of place on my bookshelf!
Heh, heh, heh.


stugang
2/12/2011
10:52:37 PM
JF's book is a classic. If i was to say one source that got me properly into climbing it would be that book. I had already done the standard school trips top roping and a token trip or two to arapiles in the early eighties. Then I came across, and bought a heavily discounted copy of Classic Climbs in Rundle Mall Adelaide. The whole book blew me away and made me want to become part of the climbing thing to the point of obsession.

The obsession is no longer the raging fire it once was, but it smoulders still.

P.S. I'm only getting softy weepy cos I might win something with onsights competition...the photo of Roland Paulink with c--ky on shoulder calmly climbing a crack somewhere or other in that book was the clincher. I wanted to be part of a breed that could still be cool wearing woolen pants, knitted jumper and have a c--ky on my shoulder.

I have managed to succeed in two out of three of those childhood dreams. In my aging years, I still look cool in woolen pants, nobody looks better than me in a knitted jumper, but I've never had a c--ky on my shoulder (even in my recent trip to san francisco).

pmonks
3/12/2011
4:34:58 PM
On 2/12/2011 useful wrote:
>but I've never had a c--ky on my shoulder (even in my recent trip to san francisco).

Let me know next time you're in town and we can rectify that!
oldtraddad
7/12/2011
6:26:24 PM
NSW great routes: Big Glassy all three routes, The original, because of the history, in memory of Chris Dale who died this year, the great stopper pitch three with a big run out on a skyhook runner. Grade 20 no chalk friable edges and you finally get to the peg (god knows how Chris Dale placed it without crapping his pants!) and it comes out. Tattered old rope littering the base 10 years for a repeat and the obvious next chapter some young punk or punket will free it (onsight hopefully)
Fever: Haven't done it but an amazing line by two of the great underrated Aussie climbers of their day, Andrew and Vera. Heat wave, running out of water blah blah .. Great stories of Gilbert Meunier and the blond adonis doing the second ascent where the blond one ended up swinging wildly from an ice hammer pick screaming he was coming of and when Gil tightened the rope the outward force pulled out the old carrorot runner beneath him. He left for Sweden almost immediately after and never climbed outside of a gym afterwards.
And the classic big loose corner. Was it Kieron who lost his front teeth on the first (or early attempt) ascent. Scene of some epics and a couple of frighteningly bold attempts to free it, Zac pulling (snapping?) a bolt and watching barefoot brian onsighting up some serious choss I'd just backed off, 10m of unknown steep ground and a belay that was definately weaker than me!

Oh and Bluff mountain, any route!

And Carne wall, Carnivore, the big loose corner and Macca and Zac's recent play things

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There are 49 messages in this topic.

 

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