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New pitons on Watch Tower |
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15-Feb-2005 6:13:28 PM
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Sorry about the delay, I had to go climbing all weekend??!! What a total waste of time!
Right, must be the station slightly below then, just before things round off. (in Claw's guide it says to rap 10m to here then 40m to ledge) Anyway, it seems to be a bunch of carrots which are rusty as, plus one galvo 20mm coach bolt (also seems carrotified). Add a couple of mallions, one of which has rusted down to about 2mm and the whole lot is in soft sandy rock, it's the sort of place that needs a euro style footlong mega ring. Of course, if you can rap straight from the top and still pull your ropes it'd be O.K. as is.
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15-Feb-2005 11:04:04 PM
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On 15/02/2005 One Day Hero wrote:
>Sorry about the delay, I had to go climbing all weekend??!! What a total waste of time!
Yep, you could have been sitting at your computer telling others how they should be doing it... just like I do.
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16-Feb-2005 2:07:21 PM
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Hey Simey, It's a good thing you didn't mention those extra bolts you put in the second belay. Imagine the hoo har that would have caused.........woops!
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16-Feb-2005 4:28:47 PM
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the only thing the peeves me more than pitons are fixed wires. I can't beleive people 'still' equip routes in this fashion. It's ludicrous... and lazy.
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that ends richie's rant of the day.
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16-Feb-2005 4:45:50 PM
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On 16/02/2005 richie cunningham wrote:
>the only thing the peeves me more than pitons are fixed wires. I can't beleive people 'still' equip routes in this fashion. It's ludicrous... and lazy.
Well it's narrow-minded and selfish to think that the only way to re-equip routes is with stainless glue-ins. Every climb is unique and should be approached accordingly.
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16-Feb-2005 5:04:08 PM
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On 16/02/2005 simey wrote:
>On 16/02/2005 richie cunningham wrote:
>>the only thing the peeves me more than pitons are fixed wires. I can't
>beleive people 'still' equip routes in this fashion. It's ludicrous...
>and lazy.
>
>Well it's narrow-minded and selfish to think that the only way to re-equip
>routes is with stainless glue-ins. Every climb is unique and should be
>approached accordingly.
IMO fixed gear (generally) is an eyesore and a blight on the climbs involved.
It's matters of degree I guess. I can live with the odd bit to perhaps show the way on uncertain routes, or as belays; but it detracts considerably (& annoys me!), when the challenges of the route have been eliminated by the presence of fixed gear.
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