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General Climbing Discussion

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The Age climbing guide


IdratherbeclimbingM9

31-Dec-2004
1:54:34 PM

The Age said; (small excerpt below)
>Most of all, you need trust: trust in yourself, some for the ropes, a bit for the instructor or >your climbing partner, and perhaps a little for the rock itself. You don't want a malevolent >rock on your first climb.
>
>The experience may terrify, but rock climbing leaves you exuberant in the knowledge that >your can-do attitude is quite accessible at great heights.
>
>Of the two types of climbing, "top roping" is how most beginners learn, with the climber's >protection rope anchored at the top of a rock, leading back to a partner who assists below >("belaying").
>
>The second type, "leading", is where climbers place objects such as tapered wedges and >bolts into cracks along the way to anchor themselves as they climb, and as a brake in case >they fall. Lead climbers are the ones who wish they'd been paid $50 million to hang by >fingertips in Mission Impossible 2.

malevolent rock?
partner who assists below ("belaying")??
"leading", where climbers place bolts into cracks ???

Hopefully any aspiring beginners will get sorted out early in their climbing careers, with good information ...

Re boosting gym numbers; Was the article sponsored by outdoor gear selling types ? (I am a cynic).

You are spot on BA re
>One thing they did get 100% correct was "A fantastic Australian rock climbing resource for >beginners is www.chockstone.org" Take a bow Michael and all your helpers, and especially >Steve at Rock Hardware for supporting your efforts.


tepas

31-Dec-2004
3:08:33 PM

On 30/12/2004 James wrote:
>there's heaps of gear at the start of the roof, but I guess most people
>find it just as easy to reach out further to clip (less rope drag & all)

The photo in Simon Carter's book (pp134-135) shows a climber with an extra three pieces of gear between that guy's last two pieces. The Age shot still seems crazy to me (but maybe I need to "harden up a bit").


nmonteith

31-Dec-2004
3:16:53 PM

I know of at least one euro who climbed it as a 'sport route'. You just clip the two fixed pitons and run it out!


Phil S

4-Jan-2005
5:55:15 PM

An odd thing about the photo of Ms Berry on "Cranky" - the route is actually located on the headland in the background of the shot. By the look of it "Cranky" has taken flight and now resides perhaps 300 meters above sea level and slightly out to sea. Wasn't the golden streak boulder reported missing a few months back?


rodw

4-Jan-2005
8:46:09 PM

Sorry Phil your wrong there, thats the beach you walk along to get to the crag and in the distance you can even see the jetty and boat shed. If you stand up behind the boulder and shoot across it, you get that view.


Paulie

4-Jan-2005
9:26:13 PM

"leading", is where climbers place objects such as...bolts...as they climb...

I like the way they're promoting true adventurous climbing!

Nice pic on the front page tho!


Jackie

5-Jan-2005
12:10:54 AM

I liked the article, lots of people know very little about climbing, sure its basic but gotta look at the audience

On 4/01/2005 Paulie wrote:
>"leading", is where climbers place objects such as...bolts...as they climb...
>
>I like the way they're promoting true adventurous climbing!
>
>Nice pic on the front page tho!

Cheeky paulie! Thats not what they said at all!!:

'... "leading", is where climbers place objects such as tapered wedges and bolts into cracks along the way to anchor themselves as they climb, and as a brake in case they fall.'


Phil S

5-Jan-2005
12:32:43 PM

On 4/01/2005 rodw wrote:
>Sorry Phil your wrong there

Shit. First public blunder of the new year - thanks Rod. It's not like I havn't been visiting said crag for twenty years or anything...

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