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Your grading system is f#@ked

Nottobetaken

17-Dec-2004
12:49:57 PM

I think you'll find that E6 is pretty bad on grit - E5 is bad enough. You just have to look at how many ascents in total some of these things get. In a country where there are heaps of climbers operating at or above the 8b (31) grade - something like Gaia (E8) (technically 26) has only had less than 20 ascents in its 18 year history.


Hatman

17-Dec-2004
1:26:41 PM

bloody poms

gfdonc

17-Dec-2004
8:54:56 PM

On 17/12/2004 Hatman wrote:
>bloody poms
Yeah thanks for that. Enlightening in so many ways. Did you type it all yourself?
- Steve


mousey

17-Dec-2004
9:02:36 PM

>The Brit grades can't be that bad because Ozzie sport cloimbers have cleaned up England's hardest and boldest on their holidays

like who? hardest and boldest to me means hardest and boldest, not hard and bold. hardest and boldest would be E9&10 wouldnt it? it would take more than a holiday to'clean them up'

----
hexedit:
nice work simon! haha


cheesehead

18-Dec-2004
2:39:36 AM

On 17/12/2004 Salamander wrote:
>What do all those E's mean anyway, is it how many E's they needed to pop
>before doing the climb? :)

E's, or roleys. Both are rife.

Yeah, sometimes hard grit routes are just wildly wild boulder problems.
Would all you expats agree that for most hard grit you can't really convert straight to an ewbank grade - the E thing is kinda important (can't do hubble with an unwarped mind...)

Dave C

18-Dec-2004
8:51:43 AM

On 18/12/2004 cheesehead wrote:

>Yeah, sometimes hard grit routes are just wildly wild boulder problems.
>Would all you expats agree that for most hard grit you can't really convert
>straight to an ewbank grade - the E thing is kinda important

Spot on Matt.
The E-grade can be more to do with how your head needs to deal with the route than what your body needs to do to get up it.
As Niall Grimes said on the Hard Grit video about Parthian Shot, "the fall was the E9" rather than the climbing itself. I certainly found this to be the case at a somewhat lower level with routes like Hairless Heart (E5 5c) and even Great Slab (E3 5b). Seb Grieve's comments during the Paralogism section of the film also offered a good insight into the mental approach required.

Nottobetaken

18-Dec-2004
8:59:14 PM

You've done it now 'Stuck In' - you may as well be talking a different language on this forum. Visited Australia lately? Your more likely to raise your pulse by asking for some 'real bitter'.


LittleJames

21-Dec-2004
10:01:39 PM

On 9/12/2004 Damieta wrote:
>* Major river that takes in the Darling from Qld, NSW, SA and the Murray
>from Vic, and the Murrumbidgee in NSW/ACT. After each state has dumped
>waste and recycled drink water and sewage plus significant fertilizer run-off
>from farms the natural spring makes it's way towards SA where it provides
>that state's drinking water and beer supply. Yum!

To quote Kate Carnell and some American ad agency with no originality: Feel the power of Canberra.

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