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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 21 of 148. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180 | 181 to 200 | 201 to 220 | 221 to 240 | 241 to 260 | 261 to 280 | 281 to 300 | 301 to 320 | 321 to 340 | 341 to 360 | 361 to 380 | 381 to 400 | 401 to 420 | 421 to 440 | 441 to 460 | 461 to 480 | 481 to 500 | 501 to 520 | 521 to 540 | 541 to 560 | 561 to 580 | 581 to 600 | 601 to 620 | 621 to 640 | 641 to 660 | 661 to 680 | 681 to 700 | 701 to 720 | 721 to 740 | 741 to 760 | 761 to 780 | 781 to 800 | 801 to 820 | 821 to 840 | 841 to 860 | 861 to 880 | 881 to 900 | 901 to 920 | 921 to 940 | 941 to 960 | 961 to 980 | 981 to 1000 | 1001 to 1020 | 1021 to 1040 | 1041 to 1060 | 1061 to 1080 | 1081 to 1100 | 1101 to 1120 | 1121 to 1140 | 1141 to 1160 | 1161 to 1180 | 1181 to 1200 | 1201 to 1220 | 1221 to 1240 | 1241 to 1260 | 1261 to 1280 | 1281 to 1300 | 1301 to 1320 | 1321 to 1340 | 1341 to 1360 | 1361 to 1380 | 1381 to 1400 | 1401 to 1420 | 1421 to 1440 | 1441 to 1460 | 1461 to 1480 | 1481 to 1500 | 1501 to 1520 | 1521 to 1540 | 1541 to 1560 | 1561 to 1580 | 1581 to 1600 | 1601 to 1620 | 1621 to 1640 | 1641 to 1660 | 1661 to 1680 | 1681 to 1700 | 1701 to 1720 | 1721 to 1740 | 1741 to 1760 | 1761 to 1780 | 1781 to 1800 | 1801 to 1820 | 1821 to 1840 | 1841 to 1860 | 1861 to 1880 | 1881 to 1900 | 1901 to 1920 | 1921 to 1940 | 1941 to 1960 | 1961 to 1980 | 1981 to 2000 | 2001 to 2020 | 2021 to 2040 | 2041 to 2060 | 2061 to 2080 | 2081 to 2100 | 2101 to 2120 | 2121 to 2140 | 2141 to 2160 | 2161 to 2180 | 2181 to 2200 | 2201 to 2220 | 2221 to 2240 | 2241 to 2260 | 2261 to 2280 | 2281 to 2300 | 2301 to 2320 | 2321 to 2340 | 2341 to 2360 | 2361 to 2380 | 2381 to 2400 | 2401 to 2420 | 2421 to 2440 | 2441 to 2460 | 2461 to 2480 | 2481 to 2500 | 2501 to 2520 | 2521 to 2540 | 2541 to 2560 | 2561 to 2580 | 2581 to 2600 | 2601 to 2620 | 2621 to 2640 | 2641 to 2660 | 2661 to 2680 | 2681 to 2700 | 2701 to 2720 | 2721 to 2740 | 2741 to 2760 | 2761 to 2780 | 2781 to 2800 | 2801 to 2820 | 2821 to 2840 | 2841 to 2860 | 2861 to 2880 | 2881 to 2900 | 2901 to 2920 | 2921 to 2940 | 2941 to 2947
Author
Havachatwithhexy...

mousey
24-Nov-2004
12:28:09 AM
>that really is a soft-c#ck-torpedo you launched there
yeh I'll second that!!

>2 minutes
thats freakin pathetic!!

neats
24-Nov-2004
8:15:21 AM
now now boys....

Breezy
24-Nov-2004
8:37:15 AM
Incoming Hex

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:)

HEX
24-Nov-2004
12:49:16 PM
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ...

The year 2000&9 : Andrew Denton sends Hexyizaprique ( 39+) , situated on the wall to the right of HB's Shifting Sands , Mt Buffalo ...

>

Jackie
24/11/2004
>I reckon trad gear is going to get more high tech, lighter and specialised. It'll be >possible to protect the barest face without drilling - im hanging out for the invention of >super strong suction caps, where you press a hydrolic button to suck the cap to the >rockface, then you just clip and go...
---------------------------


HEX
24-Nov-2004
1:21:35 PM
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Breezy
24/11/2004
>there was some route put up in Spian ?? that was given 9a+ or maybe 9b cant >remember, the point is the route was 82m long !!!! To me this is contrived, most people >would climb 80m in 2-3 pitches not one pitch that you need a "special" rope for...

Well,grass-hopper --- obviously if there are no belay-ledges with-in the 80m pitch then a "special" rope would be required --- other-wise hanging belays would be required , witch would then,hence,thus, qpS , negate a pure-free ascent of the 80m-route ...
------------------------
Some of the mega-long-Huber-pitches on El Cap also illustrate, etc,etc,etc...
------------------------

HEX
24-Nov-2004
2:01:51 PM
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" This threadz gettin' far-too rad fa me, Hexy !! --- I'm outahere !!! "...

...~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

---------------------------------

Breezy
24-Nov-2004
2:04:47 PM
On 24/11/2004 HEX wrote:
>--------------------------
>Well,grass-hopper --- obviously if there are no belay-ledges with-in the
>80m pitch then a "special" rope would be required --- other-wise hanging
>belays would be required , witch would then,hence,thus, qpS , negate a
>pure-free ascent of the 80m-route ...
>------------------------
>Some of the mega-long-Huber-pitches on El Cap also illustrate, etc,etc,etc...
>------------------------

I agree Hex,
i guess i should have mentioned from what i could gather about that 82m route, it involved a lot of traversing, ie IMO contrived 82m route.
If it was 82m from bottom to top and no avalable ledges i would agree a route should be "straight through" not stopping at a hanging belay.
Any wally can traverse 82m, though not at grade 9b :)

mousey
24-Nov-2004
10:37:45 PM
as far as i know there are only two routes in the world graded 9b and i dont think either of them are 82m long!!

Breezy
25-Nov-2004
8:29:12 AM
On 24/11/2004 mighty mouse wrote:
>as far as i know there are only two routes in the world graded 9b and i
>dont think either of them are 82m long!!
>

Yes your right ....... sort of ....... the route i was talking about was actually graded 9b+

...On July 4, Spaniard Bernabé Fernández claimed the first ascent of Chilam Balam, at Villanueva del Rosario in Málaga, Spain. Fernández has proposed an unprecedented grade of 5.15c, two grades harder than the current 5.15a standard set by Chris Sharma’s ascent of Realization at Ceuse, France.
(above taken from climbing.com)
5.15c = 9b+
Onsight
25-Nov-2004
10:29:01 AM
=38 (in theory at least).

It was extremely controversial (given it was two grades harder than anything else that had ever been claimed, and the ascent was even disputed).

http://www.8a.nu/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=66&start=0

kcwat13
26-Nov-2004
1:14:08 PM
Just had to post something. I couldn't allow one of the most entertaining threads to slip from the main page.

What is the future of discussion forums? Where will be in ten years? Have we seen views and replies in a single thread peak, and never to be re-attained? Or will new technology allow more of the masses to engage at higher level without increasing the number of intelligent/thought provoking posts? I personally held higher hopes for this thread's longevity.

kc

HEX
26-Nov-2004
1:29:40 PM
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' Stoplooknlistenbaby ' , Luv HEX~~~~~~~~~~
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HEX
27-Nov-2004
2:32:39 PM
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HEX
27-Nov-2004
2:42:09 PM
................................
Rick White Memorial Post
...............................

HEX
27-Nov-2004
2:43:14 PM
...........................
Rick White Memorial Post
...........................

HEX
27-Nov-2004
2:48:22 PM
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-----------------------------------



Rick White's legacy [ MANYTHANXTOQURANK.COM...]

Pioneering Australian climber Rick White died peacefully on 26 November 2004 in Winchester Hospital in the UK following a short but determined battle with cancer. He was 58 years old. Rick and his devoted second wife Jane travelled to the UK three weeks ago in a desperate attempt to seek natural treatment for a particularly aggressive brain tumour. As many of you will know, Rick — who is probably best known for his visionary development of Frog Buttress— battled the muscle-wasting disease, inclusion body myositis, for the past 12 years and has been unable to climb since the early 1990s. In recent years, he devoted himself to coaching Australia's top junior sport climbers, Cass Crane, Tiffany Melius, Libby Hall and Thomas Farrell, and worked with Samantha Berry under a Mountain Designs climbing support program. They are some of the many hundreds of young climbers who have benefited from Rick's mentorship over three decades.
Rick's first climb was a scary solo ascent of the exposed Prometheus II on the east face of Tibrogargan in 1967. From 1968, he played a leading role in a new wave of climbers in Queensland who began to push the existing limits nationally. Within 12 months, Rick had repeated all of the toughest known routes in SE Queensland, the Warrumbungles and the Blue Mountains and realised there was only one place left to go: into the unknown. With his climbing partner Chris Meadows, Rick first walked down the scree slope of what would later become Frog Buttress on 9 November 1968 and Australian climbing changed forever. Rick led hundreds of new routes at the Buttress over the next 20 years and many of the guides to those early climbs read invariably...'Second unable to follow'. Rick inspired a cohort of climbers in Queensland as he pushed the boundaries of the known, opening up new routes on the east face of Mt Maroon. In 1972, he put up what was then the hardest route in Australia --Valhalla. He and a small group of hard climbers like Ted Cais, Paul Caffyn, Greg Sheard, Ian Thomas, and Robert Staszewski put Queensland climbing at the forefront of the sport in Australia.
In 1973, Rick made the first Australian ascent of The Nose on El Capitan followed by the Salathe Wall with his long-time friend, Doug Scott. In the Christmas period 1974-1975, Rick teamed up with newcomer Robert ‘Squeak’ Staszewski in a bold attempt to climb the FitzRoy in Patagonia. Thwarted by the weather and tent-ridden on the Torre Glacier, they discussed the possibility of making a living out of climbing by manufacturing quality equipment designed for local and international use. When they returned to Australia, Rick expanded his small part-time climbing equipment import business into a fully-fledged manufacturing venture: the forerunner of Mountain Designs. Although much of Rick’s time was then spent developing his business interests, he maintained his interest in Frog Buttress, Mt Maroon and new areas like Maggie’s Farm (Mt Maroon). In 1979, he made a solo ascent of Ball’s Pyramid. Two years later, he was reunited with Doug Scott and an international climbing team to make the first ascent of the East Pillar of the 6500 metre spire, Shivling, in the Garwhal Himalaya in northern India. Both he and Doug Scott celebrated their birthdays on the climb—Rick turned 33 and Doug, 38. The climbing equipment business was booming and Rick always ensured that the benefits flowed on to his mates, with scores of climbers finding work at Mountain Designs over the years. Some wryly recall that cash-flow crises always seemed to emerge when Rick was on a climbing trip out of the country! Rick began to turn his attention to the international climbing scene and the high mountains and in 1990, organised an expedition to climb the 8000 metre Cho Oyu. Michael Groom joined the expedition and was the only member of the team to summit, climbing the standard route after their attempt to climb a new route was abandoned because of avalanche danger and altitude sickness by most members of the team. Rick returned to the Himalayas in 1991, this time with Everest in his sights. But the collapse of a long-time financier meant Mountain Designs was plunged into crisis. In a devastating set of circumstances, Rick lost control of the company he had started and was left with huge debts. It was about this time that his muscle-wasting disease was diagnosed. Despite extraordinary odds, he was determined to continue his lifetime commitment to climbing and eventually started up a high-end sleeping bag manufacturing business, working from home. By 2001, Mountain Designs’ ownership had changed again and new proprietor Greg Nunn invited Rick back into the fold as research and development advisor, or as Rick described himself, ‘a walking historian’.
Rick maintained his intimate association with Frog Buttress and participated in all of the ‘milestones’ over the years. At the 20th anniversary in 1988, he and Chris Meadows made another ascent of the first route they climbed at the Buttress on 16 November 1968, Corner of Eden. It was their last climb together. Chris took his own life in 1991, the same year that Rick’s illness was diagnosed. In 1998, Rick was back at Frog Buttress for the 30th anniversary and abseiled down the classic ‘jamB’ crack, The Infinity. With his adductor muscles no longer operating, he struggled back up the scree on his hands and knees, denying all offers of assistance. It took him the best part of 45 minutes to make it back to the car park.
All of us who knew Rick as a congenial, loyal friend will miss his incisive, invariably perceptive wit. He was working on a book about his life in the last weeks before his death. In typical style, bedridden, frustrated, he came up with a title just a few days ago: ‘@#%$ the diagnosis!’ Although unlikely to be acceptable to a publisher, it nevertheless sums up the extraordinary determination he showed right to the end. Doug Scott was one of the few climbers Rick ever saw as having a major influence on him — and in Doug’s words: ‘He’s the toughest bugger I’ve ever known’. Ted Cais, too, identifies Rick’s extraordinary mental toughness as one of his most admirable traits.
Perhaps the greatest contribution Rick has made here is his attitude to clean climbing. From the late 1960s, he adopted an approach that rejected the use of anything but ‘jamB’ protection. He always hoped that Frog Buttress would remain a bolt-free zone but the first bolt was placed there in 1981. Just weeks ago, he expressed a desire for Frog Buttress to de-bolted and kept as a bolt-free crag. Many of those who have placed bolts in climbs there have indicated they would be prepared to remove them. What a lasting tribute to one of the great Australian climbers this would be—a bolt-free zone in the tradition of the gritstone crags in the UK. We trust the climbing community to decide how best to honour this enigmatic, inspirational and quintessentially Australian climbing pioneer.
On behalf of all of the climbers and friends who have been part of this story for the past 36 years — we’ll miss you mate…rest in peace.

(Michael Meadows and Phil Crane , Qurank.com )

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Dave C
27-Nov-2004
9:34:46 PM
Thanks for posting this Hex.
A sad loss for Australian climbing and an even greater loss for his family and friends. They have my condolences.
A bolt-free Frog would indeed be a fitting memorial.
DC
gfdonc
28-Nov-2004
9:44:20 PM
Ah f---.
I am one of those on Chockstone lucky enough to have known Rick, having looked after the shop in Fortitude Valley one December long ago while he was still running the place and having been fortunate enough to have climbed at Frog with him.
On reading the opening sentences my first reaction was that it was a joke, apologies Hex.
I will contemplate my own memories of his passing.
- Steve

Phil Box
29-Nov-2004
9:35:48 AM
More tributes are flooding in for Rick on qurank.

Personally I am very saddened to hear of his passing. I came to know Rick through having met him in the same circles we mixed in. I will miss his wry and knowing smile. He exhibited a stoic determination unmatched in almost any other person I have met.

Last weekend I was out new routing on the very mountain that saw his first climb. I first learned of his passing from the Sunday Mail that had almost a complete column devoted to him.

He was a giant amongst our fraternity.

Bye Rick, off belay.



Mike
29-Nov-2004
10:14:13 AM
Above messages have been moved to a new thread.

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