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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 131 of 148. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180 | 181 to 200 | 201 to 220 | 221 to 240 | 241 to 260 | 261 to 280 | 281 to 300 | 301 to 320 | 321 to 340 | 341 to 360 | 361 to 380 | 381 to 400 | 401 to 420 | 421 to 440 | 441 to 460 | 461 to 480 | 481 to 500 | 501 to 520 | 521 to 540 | 541 to 560 | 561 to 580 | 581 to 600 | 601 to 620 | 621 to 640 | 641 to 660 | 661 to 680 | 681 to 700 | 701 to 720 | 721 to 740 | 741 to 760 | 761 to 780 | 781 to 800 | 801 to 820 | 821 to 840 | 841 to 860 | 861 to 880 | 881 to 900 | 901 to 920 | 921 to 940 | 941 to 960 | 961 to 980 | 981 to 1000 | 1001 to 1020 | 1021 to 1040 | 1041 to 1060 | 1061 to 1080 | 1081 to 1100 | 1101 to 1120 | 1121 to 1140 | 1141 to 1160 | 1161 to 1180 | 1181 to 1200 | 1201 to 1220 | 1221 to 1240 | 1241 to 1260 | 1261 to 1280 | 1281 to 1300 | 1301 to 1320 | 1321 to 1340 | 1341 to 1360 | 1361 to 1380 | 1381 to 1400 | 1401 to 1420 | 1421 to 1440 | 1441 to 1460 | 1461 to 1480 | 1481 to 1500 | 1501 to 1520 | 1521 to 1540 | 1541 to 1560 | 1561 to 1580 | 1581 to 1600 | 1601 to 1620 | 1621 to 1640 | 1641 to 1660 | 1661 to 1680 | 1681 to 1700 | 1701 to 1720 | 1721 to 1740 | 1741 to 1760 | 1761 to 1780 | 1781 to 1800 | 1801 to 1820 | 1821 to 1840 | 1841 to 1860 | 1861 to 1880 | 1881 to 1900 | 1901 to 1920 | 1921 to 1940 | 1941 to 1960 | 1961 to 1980 | 1981 to 2000 | 2001 to 2020 | 2021 to 2040 | 2041 to 2060 | 2061 to 2080 | 2081 to 2100 | 2101 to 2120 | 2121 to 2140 | 2141 to 2160 | 2161 to 2180 | 2181 to 2200 | 2201 to 2220 | 2221 to 2240 | 2241 to 2260 | 2261 to 2280 | 2281 to 2300 | 2301 to 2320 | 2321 to 2340 | 2341 to 2360 | 2361 to 2380 | 2381 to 2400 | 2401 to 2420 | 2421 to 2440 | 2441 to 2460 | 2461 to 2480 | 2481 to 2500 | 2501 to 2520 | 2521 to 2540 | 2541 to 2560 | 2561 to 2580 | 2581 to 2600 | 2601 to 2620 | 2621 to 2640 | 2641 to 2660 | 2661 to 2680 | 2681 to 2700 | 2701 to 2720 | 2721 to 2740 | 2741 to 2760 | 2761 to 2780 | 2781 to 2800 | 2801 to 2820 | 2821 to 2840 | 2841 to 2860 | 2861 to 2880 | 2881 to 2900 | 2901 to 2920 | 2921 to 2940 | 2941 to 2947
Author
Havachatwithhexy...

IdratherbeclimbingM9
1-Jan-2006
2:48:19 PM
Interesting thought connections (?) from various posts.
>don't dumbitdown ! ~ (The HEX 30/12/2005 9:39:39 PM)
… ~>

”To understand the world the experts live in, think of expertise as an abundant resource and time to respond as a scarce one. The less of a time commitment you implicitly ask for, the more likely you are to get an answer from someone really good and really busy.
So it is useful to frame your question to minimize the time commitment required for an expert to field it — but this is often not the same thing as simplifying the question” … ~ (from Hexs link).



>itz amazing that no-one has chopped the compressor ...
=
>but leave the odd old bit in to be marvelled at like some sort of hanging museum
~ (Jonesy @ 20 December 2005 At 2:49:50 PM).

The HEX
1-Jan-2006
4:46:19 PM
-----------------------
>hanging museum [of sixth ascent ... ]

------------------------

adski
1-Jan-2006
5:00:48 PM
M9, that's a ponderous post, truly ponderous.

The HEX
1-Jan-2006
5:38:31 PM
------------------
...not really... just another way of saying ' ... if you have to ask the question, then you probably wouldn't understand the answer ...'

------------------

Jonesy
>Oooh now them's fightin words... maybe I didn't pay quite enough attention to your >original post, or could it be that I was digesting an article, marking papers and writing >a thesis at the same time as banging out a quick reply? ...

Itz tough being an expert with limited time, eh Jonesy;-)

-------------------

Hmmmmmm ... but then again, maybe this thread is the interlectuwal-inspiration/facillitator for all the other Chocky threadz ...

--------------------

The HEX
2-Jan-2006
10:23:13 AM
-------------------------------------------
BUMP ...
------------------------------------------
Hanging Museums
WM
1/01/2006
>Should crap gear be left to litter cliffs in some kind of 'hanging museum' ?

..........................
On 7/04/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>On 7/04/2005 HEX wrote:
>>Best all-round solution would be to digi-photo them, ala Philbyz classic
>>' Tibro Tat ' photo , so the heritage can be added to this cyber-museum,
>>prefferably with route details included :

>>Then carefully, if possible, remove the bolts/pinz/gizzmoz & give them
>>to someone 'responsible' to look-after ...


>Have no fear Hexy. I have hundreds of the things in my garage at home.
>I want to mount them on a board with names/locations ect in the near future...

...getonwithitNeil:-)

-------------------------------

The HEX
2-Jan-2006
10:30:05 AM
-----------------------
>...so i have time to finish my website and then go cranking :) but its 45 fricken
>degrees...

... so diga finish it ? ... didga havacwank ? ... 45? ... a mere ephemeral contingency to deal with ...

---------------------

mousey
2-Jan-2006
11:48:28 AM
yup version 1.1a is on my compy waiting to upload but in the hosting confirmation email thing i got: "...Please allow 1-2 business days for the provision of this service and a further 24-48 hours server propagation time.... "
grrrrr

The HEX
2-Jan-2006
4:36:33 PM
>grrrrr

snigger ! ... the mousey that roarz;-)

-------------------------

The HEX
2-Jan-2006
4:38:29 PM
---------------------------
Mikey lamented:
>Understand, if you think ring bolts won’t become the same dated article 20-30 years >from now you need to broaden your vision. They will become even more of an eyesore >to your kids or grandkids than pins are to you now...
......................................
>Ask yourself when you put up that new route, can this be done in the best style of the >day? You will only fool yourself if you charge ahead and grid bolt the route...

Errrrrrr ... not clear , Mikey ... I woulda thought that ' ... the best style of day...' , IS to ' ... charge ahead and grid bolt the route ...'

Hopefully 2000&6 will be a better 'day' :-)

..............................
>The next evolution for climbing will be to remove bolts from routes returning them to >respectable standards. An inevitable contrast to today’s adding of bolts, bringing a >climb down to a mainstream playground. An embarrassing thought to have one’s first >ascent done in better style, by someone else. In this wonderful world of change it is >only a matter of time...

C'mon Mikey ... thats like saying if someone climbs pitch 2 of The Free Route on the Totem Pole, and only clips 3 of simeyz ~10 bolts, then they have climbed it in ' better style' ...

simey takes time-out from flipping mung-bean&apricot-pancakes @ his cafe, to explain :

'...I spent a fair bit of time bolting the second pitch and making sure the clips were okay for shorter folk. I remember Steve complaining that I was taking too long and faffing around, but I really wanted to get it right. I could have easily climbed the thing with half the number of bolts (I ended up placing ten), but I always bolt things for the ground-up climber. One of my pet-hates is people creating ridiculously run-out climbs after rap-inspection...'


The HEX
2-Jan-2006
5:58:56 PM
---------------------------
I was looking on quwank for the classic-great Chop All The Bolts At Frog Buttress debate ... has some c#nt deleted the whole thread !!??!! ... " CUBE-RZZZZ !!!!!!! " ... to show Mikey some 'logical conclusions/extensions' to his pontificationz ...

... anywayz hexy found this ... hehehe;-)
....................................
runnit
Sketchy leader
Posts: 23
(11/8/05 5:51 pm)
Reply Re: understanding "against retro-bolting" rational
>Actually, there was a pretty massive thing about it on chockstone have a look for the >topic "THE AUSTRALIAN RETRO/RE-BOLTING OPEN FORUM"
>There's also a really good quote in the ACT Granite guide from John Smart about the >retro bolting of No Beans for Bonzo at Booroomba that really sets things from the FA's >pont of view.

>". . .I left the project alone for years and years until I felt my climbing skill and my >head were in such complete control that I could attempt it . . "

>The full thing's pretty long and a pain in the arse to type out, but see if you can track it >down somehow...

Neil Monteith
Mr. Enthusiasm
Posts: 922
(11/8/05 6:30 pm)
Reply
Re: understanding "against retro-bolting" rational
>Yep, your right Runnit. There is lots of very confusing mess in that Retro/Reboltign >topic. It was started by an anonymous chockstone user who wasn't willing to enter >into the Safer Cliffs Victoria debate about re-bolting. Anyone who wanted to view SCV >information had to have a real name - and he wanted to remain anonymous - so he >started his own bizarre topic!

.............
>Yep, your right Runnit. There is lots of very confusing mess...
Runnit is referring to the guide not the thread, Neeeiiiillllll ...
...However !!! --- I tend to agree with you ! ... a chinese take-away is a 'confusing mess' ... but then itz perculating thru ya mind,body&sooouull...maaaaaan.....MMMmmmm ... However !!! --- you have to understand that in 2003/2004 retro-bolting was very much an acceptable/accepted 'mainstream' activity in the oz climbing 'scene' ... hex deliberately balanced a '...pretty massive thing ...' can of un-opened baked beans...(for all the bonzoz to chew on when it finally ... quite quickly, actually:D ... EXPLODED !!! ) ... in the open forum area 'campfire' ... and the resulting , far-flung, ' mess ' still adorns the cyber-walls of CragX & Qurank ... and now Mikey is swooping in to nibble on the scrapz ...
...............................
>so he started his own bizarre topic! ...

... hehehe ... did 'he' ? ... you only found it ' bizarre ' because a cane had begun to fall across ur ' free-hand ' in retro/re-bolting ...

......................
Carrigan got ' a hard time ' from many ppl , for pushing the climbing-grades ... The Hex can accommodate&assimilate a similar martydumb for pushing the ethics-grades ...

;-))

--------------------------------------------------

silence-pervades-for-sometime-buffer-zone...

--------------------------------------------------






The HEX
2-Jan-2006
6:46:18 PM
----------------------
...ah-hem...

>has some c#nt deleted the whole thread !!??!! ... " CUBE-RZZZZ !!!!!!! "

...settle-down ppl ... I wasn't necessarily calling Cube-rz a c#nt ...

...oh dear ...

Author Comment
manacubus
Lord of Chalk
Posts: 2103
(1/6/05 2:26 pm)
Reply
ezSupporter
Data loss - big ezboard problems
>On Tuesday May 31 ezboard's systems were the victim of a very precise and >malicious internet attack. This attack resulted in the loss of a significant amount of >current and historical board postings and interrupted services across all systems.
>I can only hope that all our data is restored. We've lost heaps of stuff.

kachoong
Dave Graham
Posts: 550
(1/6/05 2:29 pm)
Reply
Re: Data loss - big ezboard problems
>....what did we loose?

manacubus
>5+ pages of threads from this forum, close to 100 users, a whole stack of posts from >the Comp Corner forum. >300 posts from Safer Cliffs forum. And that's just what I've >seen so far.

>They seem to be gradually restoring things. I keep finding things appearing as I >browse around...

..............................

Cube-rz... Philby ... I hope you can cyber-res-erect that thread...
:I

-----------------------------------------------------------

The HEX
2-Jan-2006
6:59:26 PM
--------------------------
"... with Thecrag.com out of action , I would commit sewerside without shexy..."

------------------------------------


The HEX
2-Jan-2006
8:56:37 PM
------------------------
robin
2/01/2006
>As a climber I believed that historical fixed protection should be left in place providing >there was other adequate protection available.

>However a parks vic. manager bought me back to reality. We were looking at replacing >unsafe fixed protection at a climbing crag. He/she was agreable (unofficially) to me >replacing unsafe fixed protection but not adding any more bolts. When I showed >him/her a historical piton that was no longer needed and I said it should be retained >for 'historical' purposes the (unofficial) parks vic respose was 'would you be prepared to >expain the historical significance to a coroner'...

OK ... now in all seriousness... I think itz time we had a few 'fenced-off' climbs ... maybe Procul Harem(26) ... well visited crag ... lots of general public ... howbout we fence-off the base of the climb and build a viewing platform in front of the fence... with explainitory notes ... piccyz of Baxter and Kim on F & FFAz ... 20c slot-machine-telescope to spy the carrots and chalk in detail ............................Coke/Hexy-doll dispenser............10%-discount-leaflets for World Climbing;-)

----------------------------------

----------------------------------

The HEX
2-Jan-2006
9:01:11 PM
----------------------------
947 posts
roped joker
>... what do you think of having to tie into the floor on a sling? it makes bluepointing >really hard i think...

...bluepointing... can someone pleaz xplain ...

----------------------------

The HEX
2-Jan-2006
9:06:17 PM
-------------------------
DODmister
Jan 1 2006
>yes dude,,,,offroad is OK. He did try to find a few speed humps of middle eastern >appearance though.
>ever since his "try to ram into a Police Nissan Patrol" (he doesn't like Nissan's very >much) episode at the back of Blackheath pub, he has been a bit itchy. (never did >wonder why they pulled me over?)
>then there was his kangaroo bunting safari in the wolgans (they are still clearing up >the carnage)
>I have to pay close attention to what his up to when I'm driving him around. I think it is >the new BP bio-diesel I've been feeding him thats made him so cranky all the time.

...DoD funny ! ... me like DoD:-) ... so does Damo ;-)

-------------------------


The HEX
2-Jan-2006
9:14:38 PM
--------------------
mrkyle
>Everybody is welcome. They just need to register and request access to the route >database. I'll be much more responsive when I'm back from hols and we start to ramp >up the activity a bit.
>Kyle.

...OOOOOOOHHHHHHH I C#NT WAAAAIIIIIIITTTT, KYLE !!!!!!!

-------------------

The HEX
2-Jan-2006
9:17:19 PM
-------------------------------
robin
2/01/2006
>Have never heard of that one. Is that access ban just for climbers or is it for all park >users? If it was just limited to climbers I would refer it to the VCC access officer. Also >I would ignore such a ban if it singled out climbers....

...' climbers ' are idiots who start bush-fires ,too, dude ...

------------------------------


The HEX
2-Jan-2006
9:29:52 PM
-------------------------

'...An international legend and Yosemite climbing pioneer, Doug is one the countries first Certified Rock and Alpine Guides of the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) and served as the Association's first president. Doug was dubbed "The father of Clean Climbing," by Climbing Magazine for his 1973 first clean ascent of the NW Face of Half Dome, which was chronicled in National Geographic, June 1974. The climb changed the face of the sport as we know it today...'


"...urv got a lot to cyber-learn if you hadn't heard of me, before, hexy ..."


......................................................................................................................"... good call, dude !!..."


The HEX
2-Jan-2006
9:51:21 PM
---------------------------
'...Vertical shelters have been the most recent advance in equipment for the most extreme multi-day routes. Evolving from the Warren Harding's BAT (Basically Absurd Technology) hammock that could be anchored from a single point, the LURP (Limited Use of Reasonable Placements) tent was developed by Greg Lowe in 1974. Though lightweight, BAT hammocks were cramped and forced the inhabitant to lean against the wall, which in a storm ran with cold water. The precursor to the modern portaledge, the LURP tent solved the problem by adding a solid aluminum frame around the bed, keeping the inhabitants away from the wall. During its use on the first winter ascent of the Northwest Face of Half Dome, heavy winds and snow were comfortably survived for the first time in the history of big wall climbing. However, it was initially considered a specialized tool rarely worth the weight, and never made it past the prototype stage. Climbers seeking the comfort of a portaledge made their own. By the early 1980s portaledge use became popular with the somewhat more widely available one person "Cliff Dwelling," manufactured by Mike Graham. Graham also produced a dozen two-person "Fortress" portaledges, which facilitatied the unpeeling of new layers of remote big wall possibilities, and equipped Hans Christian Doseth and his partners who went on to make the first ascent of the spectacular Norwegian Buttress on the Great Trango Tower in 1984...'

...Heeeeeeeeey ... Mikey be hip !!! ...

-----------------------------------------
Re: Who invented the Portaledge? Jul 15, 2005
WBraun
>Mike Graham aka chief designer of Gramicci Products (probably spelled it wrong) but >it was Mike.

>He test drove it on his solo of El cap route forgot that one too, over by the southwest >face.

>But I remember him getting soaked to the bone on it because he forgot to seal the top >of the fly. He told me he thought at one time in a half hypothermic state that some >friend of his was sitting next to him and wanted to eat his food. I drove down to El Cap >looking for him when I knew he had topped out and found him walking towards C4 in a >daze.

>The first thing he said to me was “talk to me Werner I haven’t spoken to anyone in >days”.


:D

---------------------------------





The HEX
2-Jan-2006
10:24:50 PM
--------------------------
Quotes (Jimbo Bridwell)

“Your WORST nightmare is my BEST vacation.”

"chairs are for PUSSIES, real MEN hang in their harness and don’t need to be comfortable.”

--------------------------

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