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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Half ropes at gyms
dreapadoir
12-Jun-2022
3:19:56 PM
I'm considering getting a set of half ropes for trad. I remember seeing people at a gym in Ireland practising on twin ropes years ago, and thought it might be useful to practise in a more controlled setting myself before hitting the crag, but I get the feeling gym staff here will probably say no without checking the policy.

Are there any gyms around Melbourne that allow you to practise leading/belaying on half or twin ropes? Obviously Hardrock is out because ATC Pilots can only take a single rope. North Walls if using an Edelrid Giga/Megajul?
gfdonc
14-Jun-2022
7:26:30 AM
I'm not aware of any gyms allowing leading other than on a single rope.

E. Wells
16-Jun-2022
8:35:19 AM
Give it a whirl. They can only say no.

Duang Daunk
16-Jun-2022
10:46:24 AM
On 16-Jun-2022 E. Wells wrote:
>Give it a whirl. They can only say no.

- and if an issue arises that affects their insurance, before they say no, what then?


Duang Daunk
16-Jun-2022
10:51:01 AM
On 12-Jun-2022 dreapadoir wrote:
>I'm considering getting a set of half ropes for trad. I remember seeing
>people at a gym in Ireland practising on twin ropes years ago, and thought
>it might be useful to practise in a more controlled setting myself before
>hitting the crag, but I get the feeling gym staff here will probably say
>no without checking the policy.
>
>Are there any gyms around Melbourne that allow you to practise leading/belaying
>on half or twin ropes? Obviously Hardrock is out because ATC Pilots can
>only take a single rope. North Walls if using an Edelrid Giga/Megajul?

Hi dreapadoir. You are aware that there is a difference between twin rope technique and half rope technique?
Practice on easy climbs at a convenient crag would be my suggestion.
dalai
16-Jun-2022
8:41:14 PM
Second Duang Daunk.

Super easy trad outdoors.

E. Wells
17-Jun-2022
3:19:50 PM
Then you wait at the desk for a long time, or come back the next day and ask again.
Estey
17-Jun-2022
6:02:48 PM
You could get things dialled at a sports crag ... you could even tick 2 routes at the same time.
dan_b
20-Jun-2022
12:25:14 PM
Just go to araps and do syrinx or something
dalai
20-Jun-2022
3:34:46 PM
On 20-Jun-2022 dan_b wrote:
>Just go to araps and do syrinx or something

I'd suggest some single pitched routes first to iron out the inevitable clusterf*cks the first couple of times using doubles...

southcol
20-Jun-2022
6:42:38 PM
as already mentioned, twin ropes are generally designed for clipping both into a single biner/gear. Half ropes are designed for clipping alternate pieces of gear. in a gym clipping both half ropes to one biner is probably OK, but its a poor habit to get into for trad and the spacing of bolts on sport routes is not conducive to alternate clipping.
The reason for alternate clipping half ropes is impact force...look that up.

ajfclark
21-Jun-2022
7:39:40 AM
On 20-Jun-2022 dan_b wrote:
>Just go to araps and do syrinx or something
I'd prefer something that isn't in a sensitive area that we've been asked to avoid...
One Day Hero
21-Jun-2022
6:24:27 PM
On 20-Jun-2022 southcol wrote:
>as already mentioned, twin ropes are generally >designed for clipping both
>into a single biner/gear.

Discussion of how to use twin ropes is far more common than twin ropes. They're only (maybe) used by the hypoxic crowd for trudging up glorified ski slopes. Never seen them at an Australian crag.

>Half ropes are designed for clipping alternate
>pieces of gear. in a gym clipping both half ropes >to one biner is probably
>OK

What would be the training benefit of that though?

>but its a poor habit to get into for trad and the spacing of bolts
>on sport routes is not conducive to alternate clipping.

What now? Apparently you've never seen Wendy use double ropes to clip 30 bits of gear on a 12m pitch.

>The reason for alternate clipping half ropes is impact force...look that
>up.

Given that plenty of modern 9mm ropes are rated for all methods of clipping, I tend not to worry about using doubles as twins on straight pitches.

It's good to practice if you can. I never understood how a sewing machine works till I started fuching up with double ropes.
dan_b
21-Jun-2022
6:54:45 PM
On 21-Jun-2022 ajfclark wrote:
>On 20-Jun-2022 dan_b wrote:
>>Just go to araps and do syrinx or something
>I'd prefer something that isn't in a sensitive area that we've been asked
>to avoid...

Fair point. Wear clothes that blend in with the rock to be less conspicuous.

ajfclark
23-Jun-2022
3:18:37 PM
On 21-Jun-2022 dan_b wrote:
>On 21-Jun-2022 ajfclark wrote:
>>On 20-Jun-2022 dan_b wrote:
>>>Just go to araps and do syrinx or something
>>I'd prefer something that isn't in a sensitive area that we've been asked
>>to avoid...
>
>Fair point. Wear clothes that blend in with the rock to be less conspicuous.

Or climb one of the other dozen or two suitable routes that don't have baggage attached?

There are 15 messages in this topic.

 

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