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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Eyrie
Hsuth1
28-Oct-2020
5:05:55 AM
Hi All, some folkes may remember a few years back when the eyrie at Mt Boyce was retro bolted. It was quite the debacle. Over all ugly. Recently there has been a ring added to the eyrie. It is not in addition but replacing a carrot that was at the top of the route before the last move. This was done without consultation of community and family of first ascentionist.
Also... set piece battle second pitch is now all rings. They were placed in thw same spots as original carrots. Again with out any consultation.
My question is what should be done ? Whilst keeping things civil and not starting a bolting war. Also please let's keep the comments and conversation constructive :)
jrc
29-Oct-2020
10:31:49 AM
Looks like we’ve lost the battle for eyrie

First time I did it there were NO bolts no carrots no rings no bolts
The Eyrie belay was off the two amazing sandstone horizontal spikes one of which served as a runner for the “cave” exit. Remember this is a 13. Eyrie is Mt Boyce’s Muldoon! Since then bolts have crept in. The pitch out of the cave has a (since1990) carrot protected move up about 90% as well protected by the Sandstone spikes as the carrot Then on the arete there’s a slingable spike the last move being protected by a no 7 stopper or 9 rock or thereabouts.

Can someone please tell these easy grade bolters where Bonnie Scotland goes and point out the 8+ Well spaced cams you can use instead of trying to turn a rather nice real Rock climb into a sports bolt clip

My number is 0476 823 394 just if you wish to call and I’ll even lead you chickens up it !

E. Wells
29-Oct-2020
11:56:13 AM
Regarding set peice battle, I think rings are a reasonable option for a rebolt. Maybe we can rap it next winter..... when all those things get done....with some enamel paint and paint them brown/grey? As JRC mentions about the Eyrie, extra bolts are silly. I did read a comment about a ring and was wondering what that was about.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
29-Oct-2020
12:41:09 PM
On 28-Oct-2020 Hsuth1 wrote:
>Hi All, some folkes may remember a few years back when the eyrie at Mt
>Boyce was retro bolted. It was quite the debacle. Over all ugly.
This is the thread
http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=1&MessageID=130371&Replies=95

IdratherbeclimbingM9
29-Oct-2020
12:59:08 PM
On 29-Oct-2020 jrc wrote:
>Looks like we’ve lost the battle for eyrie
>(snip)
Nah. Some bolt wars are appropriate!
>
>First time I did it there were NO bolts no carrots no rings no bolts (snip again).
... the way it should be because traditional climbing is NOT sport climbing, and if sport climbers want to dumb down traditional climbs then they should expect a reaction from traditional climbers.

As an aside, the whole ‘bolting is good’ thing is majorly pissing me off because unchecked it has helped contribute in large part to the current bans situation that we have in Victoria.
dalai
29-Oct-2020
4:12:57 PM
On 29-Oct-2020 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:

>As an aside, the whole ‘bolting is good’ thing is majorly pissing me off
>because unchecked it has helped contribute in large part to the current
>bans situation that we have in Victoria.

Not wanting to derail this topic, but I think this debacle with PV would have happened even if the state was a bolt free zone...

E. Wells
31-Oct-2020
7:15:11 AM
I recall some routes around Mt York having grey bolts, is there any downside to using a galvanised etching primer on ss rings or ubolts?

Duang Daunk
31-Oct-2020
1:18:05 PM
On 31-Oct-2020 E. Wells wrote:
>I recall some routes around Mt York having grey bolts, is there any downside
>to using a galvanised etching primer on ss rings or ubolts?

Yes bro.
The down side is that you’re off topic in this thread.
One Day Hero
31-Oct-2020
1:26:44 PM
On 31-Oct-2020 E. Wells wrote:
>I recall some routes around Mt York having grey bolts, is there any downside
>to using a galvanised etching primer on ss rings or ubolts?

I looked into this a bit, and now camouflage all of my bolts. Apparently etch priming has potential to de-passivate stainless steel making it more susceptible to corrosion. However, the consensus seems to be that rattle can etch primers are so pissweak that there will be no significant effect. I've got etch primed hangers which have been out in the world for over ten years without any signs of corrosion.

There are some newish powder coatings which have unbelievable resistance to mechanical abrasion. As long as you're doing a decent sized batch, it would be a pretty affordable and very long lasting option.

There are 9 messages in this topic.

 

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