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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 3 of 11. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180 | 181 to 200 | 201 to 205
Author
Grampians Access 2019

ajfclark
4-Mar-2019
7:27:03 PM
On 4-Mar-2019 phil_nev wrote:
> so looks like they are going to enforce SPZ's regardless of the crag.

I wonder how that's going to work out for the commercial operators running out of Summerday Valley.

E. Wells
4-Mar-2019
7:53:06 PM
Commercial operators will be fine. They are licenced. We are not yet.

ajfclark
4-Mar-2019
8:19:40 PM
On 4-Mar-2019 E. Wells wrote:
>Commercial operators will be fine. They are licenced. We are not yet.

The handout says Climbing is Prohibited in all SPZ. Summerday Valley is clearly covered by the red shading in the map.

What are they doing if not climbing?

ajfclark
5-Mar-2019
4:53:34 AM
On 4-Mar-2019 phil_nev wrote:
>Two friends turned away from Red Rocks this week by rangers. Not a named
>crag in the original list... so looks like they are going to enforce SPZ's
>regardless of the crag.

Is this the same two people you commented about on Facebook and they actually got kicked out of McKenzie Falls no Red Rock Pinnacles?
kp
5-Mar-2019
5:16:28 AM
I have been informed that climbers were approached by rangers at their bush camp. They were told you can walk into any of the SPZ's but not climb.

This is madness.

gordoste
5-Mar-2019
8:27:09 AM
On 5-Mar-2019 kp wrote:
>I have been informed that climbers were approached by rangers at their
>bush camp. They were told you can walk into any of the SPZ's but not climb.
>
>
>This is madness.

@Access_T: Could these reports be useful to raise with Parks through the Grampians Access Working Group? Would it help if people gather specific dates/locations?
Access T CliffCare
5-Mar-2019
8:42:09 AM
On 5-Mar-2019 gordoste wrote:
>On 5-Mar-2019 kp wrote:
>>I have been informed that climbers were approached by rangers at their
>>bush camp. They were told you can walk into any of the SPZ's but not
>climb.
>>
>>
>>This is madness.
>
>@Access_T: Could these reports be useful to raise with Parks through the
>Grampians Access Working Group? Would it help if people gather specific
>dates/locations?
We are working on this and I am aware of a particular instance. If people could send any further info through to cliffcare@vicclimb.org.au that would be great. Trying to visit all the various sites, pages and forums and gathering information that way is so time intensive.
Thanks!
Nottobetaken
5-Mar-2019
11:22:15 AM
If the crag wasn't on the original list of 8 and there's no signpost suggesting closure - is there a particular reason why these two friends just didn't tell the rangers to go and find some real work to do?
FlatPeach
5-Mar-2019
12:25:16 PM
Red Rock was listed in the 2003 plan as a SPZ (number 5). The same plan that states climbing isn't permitted in SPZs. Regardless of what VL and VCC aren't clarifying about where we can't and can climb, that management plan states it pretty plainly.

2003 Park Management Plan

It's pretty interesting finally forcing myself to read through all this stuff to actually find out where we (as climbers) sit in the whole situation. The more you read into it, the more it looks like climbers have just been left to disregard the rules to their hearts content and now that PV are starting to actually lay down the rules AND enforce them we're getting all huffy about it.

It's pretty misleading though - I find it hard to believe that climbing guides have continued to be published over the last 16 years without PV putting their hand up saying something about the areas listed in them....... (read this as "I'm no angel, I've certainly contributed to this gleeful ignorance").

gordoste
5-Mar-2019
12:49:17 PM
On 5-Mar-2019 FlatPeach wrote:
>Red Rock was listed in the 2003 plan as a SPZ (number 5). The same plan
>that states climbing isn't permitted in SPZs. Regardless of what VL and
>VCC aren't clarifying about where we can't and can climb, that management
>plan states it pretty plainly.
>
>2003 Park Management Plan
>
>It's pretty interesting finally forcing myself to read through all this
>stuff to actually find out where we (as climbers) sit in the whole situation.
>The more you read into it, the more it looks like climbers have just been
>left to disregard the rules to their hearts content and now that PV are
>starting to actually lay down the rules AND enforce them we're getting
>all huffy about it.
>
>It's pretty misleading though - I find it hard to believe that climbing
>guides have continued to be published over the last 16 years without PV
>putting their hand up saying something about the areas listed in them.......
>(read this as "I'm no angel, I've certainly contributed to this gleeful
>ignorance").

Someone more knowledgable could correct me, but I believe that not only did PV not enforce the SPZs, but they actually endorsed climbing-related development (trackworks) subsequent to this plan. I think everyone just assumed they would formally endorse climbing in these areas when they next got around to updating the PMP. Obviously, that's all up in the air now.

I don't think it's fair to expect climbing guidebooks to mention access issues that didn't exist until recently.
kieranl
5-Mar-2019
1:11:14 PM
On 5-Mar-2019 Nottobetaken wrote:
>If the crag wasn't on the original list of 8 and there's no signpost suggesting
>closure - is there a particular reason why these two friends just didn't
>tell the rangers to go and find some real work to do?

At present the better option is to be compliant but insist on getting the details of the parks staff involved - they must identify themselves - and send a detailed report to cliffcare as Tracey has requested. Include as much detail about the conversation as possible :
What they asked you
what you replied
What directions they gave you
FlatPeach
5-Mar-2019
1:28:41 PM
>
>I don't think it's fair to expect climbing guidebooks to mention access issues that didn't exist until recently.
>

To clarify, my issue is not with the guidebooks, it's with PV not doing ANYTHING about the distribution of the guide (somewhat endorsing that it's OK to climb).

Further, to my last point, I also wholeheartedly realize that there has been a very clear change in attitudes towards climbers over the past few months.

ajfclark
5-Mar-2019
1:45:36 PM
On 5-Mar-2019 gordoste wrote:
>Someone more knowledgable could correct me, but I believe that not only
>did PV not enforce the SPZs, but they actually endorsed climbing-related
>development (trackworks) subsequent to this plan.

They also published lists of crags that were open for climbing. These lists included crags in SPZs.
FlatPeach
6-Mar-2019
4:50:04 AM
>
>They also published lists of crags that were open for climbing. These
>lists included crags in SPZs.

Ah...the more you know. Building an even bigger understanding!

partysteve
6-Mar-2019
8:43:10 AM
So ajfclark, are you able to point me in the right direction to these lists? I've looked on the PV site, and haven't found anything yet.
Just trying to get an idea of where to climb this weekend, and avoid treading on the toes of the rangers, thus causing more problems.
chris220220
6-Mar-2019
10:31:42 AM
I found this the other day
https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0007/733543/Grampians-National-Park-rock-climbing-update-February-2019_a.pdf?fbclid=IwAR07QXq3NKAYoJHkgaUkpkKYW0FlERiRjcSLl4cCws5PEiBHThQSdm9xez4

gordoste
6-Mar-2019
11:20:37 AM
On 5-Mar-2019 FlatPeach wrote:
>>
>>I don't think it's fair to expect climbing guidebooks to mention access
>issues that didn't exist until recently.
>>
>
>To clarify, my issue is not with the guidebooks, it's with PV not doing
>ANYTHING about the distribution of the guide (somewhat endorsing that it's
>OK to climb).

I see now that I misread what you were saying.

Unfortunately it's hard to see an under-resourced PV being proactive about these issues. The fact that the plan hasn't been updated for so long really tells you all you need to know about the effects of successive budget cuts.

ajfclark
6-Mar-2019
11:30:14 AM
On 6-Mar-2019 partysteve wrote:
>So ajfclark, are you able to point me in the right direction to these lists? I've looked on the PV site, and haven't found anything yet. Just trying to get an idea of where to climb this weekend, and avoid treading on the toes of the rangers, thus causing more problems.

I meant historically they have published lists of sites that were open in SPZs.

Currently the only thing I can say for certain is head to Arapiles.
armstp
6-Mar-2019
2:57:58 PM
Looking at Parks February update as attached by Chris220220 there would appear to be an awful lot of climbing in protected zones. It is hard to know how to interpret this as the brochure is somewhat contradictory. It states that there are still hundreds of known climbing areas open in the Grampians, but that comment only makes sense if the only closed areas are the 8 specifically noted as such. But the update also states that climbing is prohibited in all special protection areas - SPZs. If the protected areas marked on the attached map are all SPZs then it would appear that the majority of the climbing away from the Halls Gap/Wonderland/Rosea/Bundaleer area is now off limits. As well as the climbing in the Victoria Range those shaded areas appear to cover such historic climbing areas as Mt Abrupt, the Dials Range, Barbican and Mt Difficult, additionally they include popular and extensively maintained destinations such as Summerday Valley and Hollow Mt. Possibly Dreamtime as well. Does anyone have any clarification [not speculation] as to whether this is in fact the current situation?
jacksonclimbs
6-Mar-2019
3:17:37 PM
Nobody has clarification - you have the same information as everyone I've heard from.

Yes, they do cover the areas you mentioned.

I expect there will be people climbing in Stapylton this weekend - bouldering in Andersens, plugging gear in Summerday Valley, and clipping bolts at Amnesty Wall - all of which fall into the SPA hanging over that area.

If PV are at the HM car park, telling climbers not to go into those areas to climb, I'd be very surprised... but then we've all been pretty surprised lately.

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There are 205 messages in this topic.

 

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