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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 29
Author
Bolts at Buffalo

gordoste
12-Jan-2019
1:02:12 PM
On 12-Jan-2019 rb wrote:
> Trubolts can be cut off, the stud punched in, then glued over with rock dust. On textured granite they will be almost invisible after that.
>Hitting them with a hammer because you lack the knowledge of how to do a proper job just makes it harder.

From what I read in the original post, the holes weren't deep enough to punch them in.
dalai
12-Jan-2019
3:01:23 PM
Hole will be rarely deep enough to hammer in a trubolt without grinding the top off first.

gordoste
13-Jan-2019
11:14:37 AM
On 12-Jan-2019 dalai wrote:
>Hole will be rarely deep enough to hammer in a trubolt without grinding the top off first.

Gotcha. I think he intends to come back and do that so I still struggle to understand the objection to hammering the thread.

Anyway, thanks to the guiding companies for clarifying their lack of involvement.

After the Grampians situation is resolved, we should probably review the bolting approach at Buffalo. Especially if the lack of clarity contributed to this abomination.

JMK
13-Jan-2019
2:32:36 PM
Regarding pulling the bolts on Profanities- either pull them all, including anchors to restore back to the original or leave it as it is. If you selectively choose which bolts to pull you are just comfortising it to your own level. Someone else could choose as their comfort level fewer bolts than you or more bolts than you - it is just a personal choice then. I think if you pull any bolts you must pull them all including the anchors as these are then just comfort bolts. Clearly this is not my preferred choice. While I would not have put the bolts into profanities I did enjoy the nice longish moderate 1 pitch route that they allowed me to do. I would not have done it in its original form. Too bold and/or too much effort to leave an abseil rope with knots.

It has been probably 4 years or more since I last did the route but I do not recall any bolts directly next to a crack. There was that bit where you can go right to the end of P1 but you can stay directly on the arÍte I think. There was also a spot for a smallish cam in the bottom of the chossy flake but I think this may rip the flake? This is all on a fairly distant memory.

My comments are strictly related to the one route - more than happy for the general clean up you are doing.


bigchris
13-Jan-2019
9:04:45 PM
As its Geoffs route, I'm sure he'll chop whichever ones he sees fit.

MrsM10iswhereitsat.
14-Jan-2019
5:16:19 PM
On 13-Jan-2019 bigchris wrote:
>As its Geoffs route, I'm sure he'll chop whichever ones he sees fit.

In which case there will be none left Mr bigchris, as he led it back in the day when he couldnít afford bolts or his hand drill had broken or something, as he used the knotted toprope sillyness instead.

Actually Iím pretty surprised he didnít know about that retro earlier when the last lengthy conversation was had about it on Chockerstone years back as per Mr ajfclark link. Kind of a long time for indignation to build up?

Oh, and thank you for cleaning up the current excess bolts mess dearie.

JMK
15-Jan-2019
9:42:43 AM
So the use of a hanging rope with knots on a slab creates issues for me. Ie how many bolts does that translate to? I have used this method in the past for leading a route. Where the route was steep or vertical it is difficult to add knots on the way up as you are hanging on one handed. Not impossible but difficult. On a slab you can add a knot if the climbing suddenly feels too runout. Knowing the rope is there, that you can grab it in worst case scenario reduces the mental stress.

So I donít know about the first ascent, this is just my experience. My main point is still that the route has now been climbed a lot in its current form . Some think the route runout but others think the opposite. So stripping bolts from the route now is to the comfort level of the person removing the bolts. This is difficult to measure against the starting point which was no bolts or an uncertain number of equivalent bolts. Just counting the original knots is not an accurate comparison.Ē

IdratherbeclimbingM9
15-Jan-2019
10:31:51 AM
On 14-Jan-2019 MrsM10iswhereitsat. wrote:
>(snip)
>Actually Iím pretty surprised he didnít know about that retro earlier
>when the last lengthy conversation was had about it on Chockerstone years
>back as per Mr ajfclark link. Kind of a long time for indignation to build
>up?
>(snip)

He knew about the retro not that long after it had been done.
I happened to meet him at the Horn Lookout above it while we were (independently) climbing in the vicinity within a few months of the event, and discussed it at that time. The impression I got was that he already knew, and wasnít that happy about it.
bendi
16-Jan-2019
5:41:01 AM
Firstly, I support removal of unnecessary and/or over bolting.

In regards to the slack line anchor, you said you smashed the thread?....I assume the bolts must have been threaded rod?

if threaded rod your best bet of removing them (or at least trying) would have been fix a nut to the rod, attach wrench with a extension and twist them out.

smashing bolts in a heated rage is not really a good idea as much as it may feel good at the time.


 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 29
There are 29 messages in this topic.

 

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