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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Satan's Smokestack - Rock Article
Olbert
10-Jul-2018
11:25:30 PM
Does anyone remember the Rock articles about Satan's Smokestack and have an online link?
dave1962
11-Jul-2018
1:22:54 AM
Hi Satans smokestack article is in Rock 74 april-june 2008 , best I could do try scanning it and emailing it to you , or maybe photocopy and post
cheers
Olbert
11-Jul-2018
1:27:18 AM
If you could post here or email a few readable photos or scans of the article, that would be excellent!

Edit: I've pmed you my email.

Duang Daunk
11-Jul-2018
2:10:25 AM
On 11-Jul-2018 Olbert wrote:
>If you could post here or email a few readable photos or scans of the article,
>that would be excellent!

Not as excellent as first hand folklore on the subject climb as could be provided by Chockys own bro Eduardo.
Failing that youd have to also respect sister Wendys opinion, or for that matter bro rightarmbad since hes a local.
Markg
11-Jul-2018
3:18:24 AM
Id go Wendys advice or get in contact with Phil Box on Facebook. Im surprised shes not out there as she is usually up here around this time. The first time I climbed it was was second to Phil Box. He placed enough gear to get into the chimney then climd the whole chimney with no gear. Another piece as you exit then the anchors. I was stunned by his boldness. If you contact him he would probably come out and help you for the fun of it :-)
rightarmbad
11-Jul-2018
3:27:32 AM
What is it you wish to know?
It's unique, airy and a bit hard to protect until you get in the chimney, best to get in a little higher as it is cramped at the very bottom.
Rack on your right side or use a sling.
Unless you fall asleep it's a bit hard to fall off once inside.
A couple of big pieces come in handy at the start.
Take two ropes to get down from Infinity's anchors.
Olbert
11-Jul-2018
1:49:58 PM
I climbed it with my partner and she has a horrendous time on it both loving it and hating it. I remember that article from a few years back and would love to show it to her.

Beta is not actually required.
Olbert
11-Jul-2018
2:43:53 PM
And Dave has come through with the goods! I owe you a beer or belay next time we are at the crag.

White Trash
11-Jul-2018
4:41:48 PM
On 11-Jul-2018 Olbert wrote:
>And Dave has come through with the goods! I owe you a beer or belay next
>time we are at the crag.

Now that you have our attention, please post the article here for those of us that know nothing about it and are dreaming of warmer climbs.

gordoste
11-Jul-2018
6:28:57 PM

> dreaming of warmer climbs.

Nice.
Olbert
12-Jul-2018
1:48:36 AM
I'll attempt to do so when I'm back in civilisation
Olbert
14-Jul-2018
9:28:52 PM
For those who's interest has been peaked, the article can be found here.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
16-Jul-2018
4:49:58 PM
Id forgotten that article.
Thanks for the refresher, as it looks like a great climb and is now on my to do list next time I visit Frog.
The articles photos looked to be great results for difficult photography conditions too*, as they certainly convey what the climb involves.
(*Well done Phil Box).

There are 13 messages in this topic.

 

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