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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 4 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 69
Author
Liquid Insanity

IdratherbeclimbingM9
27-Apr-2018
6:05:59 PM
I've been following this thread with interest, and add my typed-voice in support of ODH's well presented thoughts on the issue of slackline anchors appearing at prominent locations that authorities are likely to be sensitive about; let alone the further eroding of traditional climbing locations with modern ethics and infrastructure.

On 23-Apr-2018 dalai wrote:
>On 23-Apr-2018 ben wiessner wrote:
>>Interestingly, I don't think I've ever heard a climber offer to take out
>>any bolts they placed due to other people being unhappy with them.
>
>There was a retrobolt of a Blue Mountains route where this was done. Topic
>in here somewhere...
>
Here is a link to it...
http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=1&MessageID=130371&Replies=93
PThomson
30-Apr-2018
3:44:25 AM
>On 23-Apr-2018 dalai wrote:
>>On 23-Apr-2018 ben wiessner wrote:
>>>Interestingly, I don't think I've ever heard a climber offer to take
>out
>>>any bolts they placed due to other people being unhappy with them.
>>
>>There was a retrobolt of a Blue Mountains route where this was done.
>Topic
>>in here somewhere...
>>
>Here is a link to it...
>http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=1&MessageID=130371&Repli
>s=93
>

It was Macca and me that chopped those bolts (unbeknownst to each other... Macca had chopped half of them one morning, and I removed the other half in the evening) not the retro-bolter.

- Paul
bendi
30-Apr-2018
6:59:31 AM
On 27-Apr-2018 One Day Hero wrote:
>I don't even particularly mind some well thought out bolted anchors, preferably
>with prior consultation rather than bullshit post-consultation mixed with
>fake compromise. Feet off ground sounds like an alright dude, but the various
>aspects of this whole situation which annoy me are;
>
>- The systematic targeting of trad climbing areas. There's hundreds of
>kilometers of junk sea cliff in australia which climbers have no interest
>in at all. Go sink meter-long ringbolts in some remote chossy bit of the
>great australian bight and climbers won't hassle you. Go slackbolt a fuching
>sport crag. Why does it have to be the most prominent sections of a select
>few bits of cliff in the country where climbers have developed a minimal
>bolt ethic? i.e. Buffalo, Point Perp, Araps, Piddo.

because people want to be a 'legend , they want to be the 'first' they want to be remembered as the guy that put up the line and got the first ascent and 'gifted' the line to others,,,they want validation........A attitude that I generally disagree with......A attitude that was adopted from FA's in climbing.
>
>- The slacklining startup company grassroots bullshit. I was taught from
>a young age to be suspicious of anyone's motives if they stand to make
>some money. Maybe one thing has nothing to do with the other, but running
>around bolting slackline anchors onto trad crags while advertising a company
>that charges money to teach people to slackline smells a little fishy.
>
>- Sloppy work. I don't think that anyone who cares about a place would
>squirt glue around like that.

Jayford4321
30-Apr-2018
7:26:12 AM
On 30-Apr-2018 PThomson wrote:
>It was Macca and me that chopped those bolts (unbeknownst to each other...
>Macca had chopped half of them one morning, and I removed the other half
>in the evening) not the retro-bolter.
>
>- Paul

Good onya both again for that, but rereading that shred it sounded like dude was converted and you both beat him to the punch?

E. Wells
30-Apr-2018
8:21:23 AM
While I agree with errr Bendi's last comment , as I hike out to keep plugging away at a multi (yes , bolted) there are also other motivations which arent so pessimistic. Its just a really awesome feeling swinging around all day in space on a wall you have admired from various veiwpoints throughout your life. And to climb up the thing is even better. Having a good day out in a wild location and having lots of variety. You understand im not trying to invalidate your rage , but in my (biased) opinion the only thing that suffers in this particular instance is one enormous huntsman and I didnt pin the flake so it was just a 2 minute standoff. Flame away....
bendi
30-Apr-2018
8:56:48 AM
E.Wells you are right, everyone does FA's for different reasons.....FA's are what makes sports interesting....though I think you have to look long and hard at your actions/reasons for doing so when you place multiple bolts on top of a crag thats famous for trad.......especially when there less offensive options close by.

E. Wells
30-Apr-2018
9:14:10 AM
This is chockstone..you cant just agree like that! All the things you mentioned are also part of most bolters psyche behind the scenes , I got shitty when I saw chalk on my only closed spurt project , and my suspicions that it was a grade 33 climber were confirmed later. Entirely an ego thing ...but it did take me four days to put up!! I want to be the 'legend' to clip my own anchor first and give it a stupid name.....
PThomson
30-Apr-2018
10:51:05 AM
>
>Good onya both again for that, but rereading that shred it sounded like
>dude was converted and you both beat him to the punch?

You're right in that respect... But it's worth pointing out that the bolt holes were voluntarily going to be camouflaged by the individual in question (after we removed the bolts), which was stated after Macca and my "meddling" ( :P )... When last I solo'd the Eyrie they were still there.

Regards,

- Paul
PThomson
30-Apr-2018
10:54:06 AM
On 30-Apr-2018 E. Wells wrote:
>This is chockstone..you cant just agree like that! All the things you mentioned
>are also part of most bolters psyche behind the scenes , I got shitty when
>I saw chalk on my only closed spurt project , and my suspicions that it
>was a grade 33 climber were confirmed later. Entirely an ego thing ...but
>it did take me four days to put up!! I want to be the 'legend' to clip
>my own anchor first and give it a stupid name.....

I'm with you Ev! Profound, transcendental musings on the arbitrary (yet totally inviolate!) rules of our sport. =)

Objectively, these elements seem crazy... But as a climber: it makes complete sense.

- Paul

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There are 69 messages in this topic.

 

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