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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 47
Author
Questions regarding routes, bolt and grades.

bigchris
29-Mar-2018
3:05:14 PM
On 29-Mar-2018 kieranl wrote:
>On 29-Mar-2018 The Rock Robster wrote:
>>
>>On-topic though - replace the bolts. Personally I'd rather you replace
>>them with hangerless glue-ins because we're Australians, not cowards,
>but
>>whatever. First ascentionist has the last say though, not you. If they
>>decide not to rebolt, and you go up and do it anyway, I will buy a grinder
>>just to chop them myself if I have to.
>>
>
>This is getting ridiculous. Threatening to chop the replacement of a crappy
>old carrot? Did you read earlier in the thread where BA (from the FA) said
>"Since they were aid bolts maybe just replace one of them with something
>bomber to use as pro." ? Why do people feel the need to blow something
>up out of all proportion?
>

I agree Kieran!

Claw and I are sitting here laughing. I've got permission, and all of the keyboard warriors are still arguing :D
The Rock Robster
29-Mar-2018
8:25:51 PM
On 29-Mar-2018 kieranl wrote:
>This is getting ridiculous. Threatening to chop the replacement of a crappy
>old carrot? Did you read earlier in the thread where BA (from the FA) said
>"Since they were aid bolts maybe just replace one of them with something
>bomber to use as pro." ? Why do people feel the need to blow something
>up out of all proportion?

I actually managed to read that and then subsequently forget about it. Go ahead bolt it, you've got permission.

My point about chopping it was more for the sort of folks that think it's okay to just retro old bolts because they feel like it without asking the first ascentionist/locals etc. Chris' comment about doing it and not telling anybody rang alarm bells about people doing that stuff without taking into account the FA.
I hardly think I was blowing it out of proportion, since that's the generally accepted ethic. Perhaps I'm just old fashioned though.
kieranl
30-Mar-2018
6:11:57 AM
On 29-Mar-2018 The Rock Robster wrote:
>My point about chopping it was more for the sort of folks that think it's
>okay to just retro old bolts because they feel like it without asking the
>first ascentionist/locals etc. Chris' comment about doing it and not telling
>anybody rang alarm bells about people doing that stuff without taking into
>account the FA.
>I hardly think I was blowing it out of proportion, since that's the generally
>accepted ethic. Perhaps I'm just old fashioned though.

I've never heard that it's generally accepted that FA needs to be consulted about replacing old bolts. I don't know what may have given you the idea that this is "generally accepted". I doubt that's happened in much of the bolt.replacement at Arapiles over the years. Where's the logic in this one? If a bolt is badly corroded or poorly placed or simply a drive-in carrot, why should the FA have any say in the placement being fixed?

What is generally accepted is that the FA should be consulted if possible before retroing a climb - where a bolt is placed where there was not one previously,
The Rock Robster
30-Mar-2018
8:38:35 AM
On 30-Mar-2018 kieranl wrote:
>I've never heard that it's generally accepted that FA needs to be consulted
>about replacing old bolts. I don't know what may have given you the idea
>that this is "generally accepted". I doubt that's happened in much of the
>bolt.replacement at Arapiles over the years. Where's the logic in this
>one? If a bolt is badly corroded or poorly placed or simply a drive-in
>carrot, why should the FA have any say in the placement being fixed?

In this case I was saying it because there's been disagreement. Don't get me wrong, I firmly believe in replacing old bolts and fixing stuff up, but if there's disagreement about whether it's the right thing to do, I've always been taught it should fall to the first ascentionist. Might just me though.

Although now I read back through the thread there doesn't appear to be that much contention. Maybe I'm mixing up one thread with another.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
30-Mar-2018
10:50:56 AM
On 30-Mar-2018 The Rock Robster wrote:
>(snip)
>Although now I read back through the thread there doesn't appear to be
>that much contention. Maybe I'm mixing up one thread with another.

No contention on my part, just exploring all options while waving the aid-climbers flag at the same time for those that enjoy original experiences. Although being a subgroup generally out of vogue these days, there are still more than a few of us, and the Aussie climbing scene is big enough for all sub-genres...


@bigchris;
>I feel as if you have the wrong idea about me Rod! :D :D

I feel bigchris may have misunderstood the point I was making and maybe thought Id made a more personalised comment(?), given the length of response it elicited. :D :D :D
Just to be absolutely clear regarding where I stand on the issue, I add my blessing to BAs for your proposed action.

gordoste
3-Apr-2018
12:48:01 PM
On 29-Mar-2018 kieranl wrote:
> Why do people feel the need to blow something
>up out of all proportion?

Dude. It's the internet.

bigchris
3-Apr-2018
2:10:08 PM
On 3-Apr-2018 gordoste wrote:
>On 29-Mar-2018 kieranl wrote:
>> Why do people feel the need to blow something
>>up out of all proportion?
>
>Dude. It's the internet.

Best quote ever :D

Turns out that I didn't get the chance to change the bolts. My drill went flat with bolts elsewhere so i'll do it next time I'm up there :D

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 47
There are 47 messages in this topic.

 

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