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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Poll Option Votes Graph
Looks sweet 3
10% 
I'm scared of heights but too weak to boulder 1
3% 
If you want to boulder, just don't clip the bolts 4
13% 
Who cares what a road cyclist thinks? 0
 
I want the Samarkand Mikl back 3
10% 
Probably the best route in Sydney 2
7% 
This is having sex with the corpse of impossible 6
20% 
Ultimate frisbee is now less stupid than climbing 11
37% 

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 38
Author
How poxy is Lucky's bolted roof boulder?
prozac
12-Mar-2018
7:08:21 PM
It only looks pox in photos http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVgKzRkRB8Y

arniearms
12-Mar-2018
8:14:52 PM
Dosn't look so poxy with Dave Bateman behind the lens, and Emma Brown stylin.

dalai
12-Mar-2018
8:18:34 PM
On 12-Mar-2018 prozac wrote:
>It only looks pox in photos

Looks like a nice boulder problem, still pox as a route.

But most importantly

On 10-Mar-2018 pmonks wrote:
> It was regularly soloed / bouldered back in the 90s, and clearly had been climbed earlier.
widewetandslippery
13-Mar-2018
4:43:14 AM
On 12-Mar-2018 dalai wrote:
>On 12-Mar-2018 prozac wrote:
>>It only looks pox in photos
>
>Looks like a nice boulder problem, still pox as a route.
>
>But most importantly
>
>On 10-Mar-2018 pmonks wrote:
>> It was regularly soloed / bouldered back in the 90s, and clearly
>had been climbed earlier.
>

There is nothing important here Dalai, it's Bangor! Who cares if people bouldered it in the 90s. It doesn't look like a ground breaking classic has been desecrated. Short proxy shit gets bolted in Sydney, always has. No problem as it seems to be contained to short proxy crags, and as I said above it's in th shire.
dalai
13-Mar-2018
7:11:16 AM
The issue is when pox routes get retrobolted and no one disagrees, this becomes the norm and they move onto retrobolting good routes at the better crags!

rocksinmyhead
13-Mar-2018
10:29:38 AM
On 13-Mar-2018 widewetandslippery wrote:
> it's in the shire.

I guess by that you mean that any arguments or discussions of "style" , or more accurately, taste, are completely pointless.

I couldn't agree more, but I'd add that arty farty night shot or not, it'd still look cooler without the rope. Put me down for options 4 and 5 (and #2 if I'm being honest).
climberman
13-Mar-2018
3:43:17 PM
On 13-Mar-2018 widewetandslippery wrote:
>On 12-Mar-2018 dalai wrote:
>>On 12-Mar-2018 prozac wrote:
>>>It only looks pox in photos
>>
>>Looks like a nice boulder problem, still pox as a route.
>>
>>But most importantly
>>
>>On 10-Mar-2018 pmonks wrote:
>>> It was regularly soloed / bouldered back in the 90s, and clearly
>>had been climbed earlier.
>>
>
>There is nothing important here Dalai, it's Bangor! Who cares if people
>bouldered it in the 90s. It doesn't look like a ground breaking classic
>has been desecrated. Short proxy shit gets bolted in Sydney, always has.
>No problem as it seems to be contained to short proxy crags, and as I said
>above it's in th shire.

A man who actually understands the soul of Sin City.

Duang Daunk
14-Mar-2018
1:34:54 PM
On 12-Mar-2018 prozac wrote:
>It only looks pox in photos http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVgKzRkRB8Y

prozac bro, it still looks like pox to me. In fact the lameness extends to not even topping out , which any good boulderer would do , like when completing Wheel Of Life for example.

It still defies historical precedent , and logic , to bolt it and spend extra effort clipping a lead rope to them rather than saving that energy for the moves , at what V2 maybe V3 if the lip is turned to top out?

Was that you leading the two move wonder in the vid?

Bro Wide is half right when he says
> it doesn’t look like a ground breaking classic
though is wrong about the desecration.
But then again maybe dude would be ok with others retro-bolting his own pox?

The Rock Robster
14-Mar-2018
2:47:04 PM
On 12-Mar-2018 prozac wrote:
>It only looks pox in photos http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVgKzRkRB8Y


I reckon it looks poxier in the video. Looks like he'd only be thirty centimetres off the deck if he cut loose. You'd just about need a static rope to lead it, lest the rope stretch deposit you on the ground that you must be so terrified of to bolt it.

Bolting just seems totally unnecessary, whether it's in a poxy area or not, whether it's a ground-breaking classic or not.
widewetandslippery
14-Mar-2018
3:08:17 PM
On 14-Mar-2018 Duang Daunk wrote:
>On 12-Mar-2018 prozac wrote:
>>It only looks pox in photos http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVgKzRkRB8Y
>
>prozac bro, it still looks like pox to me. In fact the lameness extends
>to not even topping out , which any good boulderer would do , like when
>completing Wheel Of Life for example.
>
>It still defies historical precedent , and logic , to bolt it and spend
>extra effort clipping a lead rope to them rather than saving that energy
>for the moves , at what V2 maybe V3 if the lip is turned to top out?
>
>Was that you leading the two move wonder in the vid?
>
>Bro Wide is half right when he says
>> it doesn’t look like a ground breaking classic
>though is wrong about the desecration.
>But then again maybe dude would be ok with others retro-bolting his own
>pox?
>
>

My pox will never be retro bolted as it is pox, chopped maybe, could be a fair call.

I personally am against retro bolting. I have twentysomething secret local crags. Sydney is shitney, let them be contained
prozac
14-Mar-2018
4:53:28 PM
>Was that you leading the two move wonder in the vid?
>

Nope, it was recently posted to reddit.com/r/climbing.

Duang Daunk
16-Mar-2018
9:54:33 AM
On 14-Mar-2018 widewetandslippery wrote:
>My pox will never be retro bolted as it is pox, chopped maybe, could be a fair call.
>
>I personally am against retro bolting. I have twentysomething secret local crags. Sydney is shitney, let them be contained

Bro wide, good that you are against retros , but containment don't work dude. You confirmed as much when you said;
>Who cares if people bouldered it in the 90s.

The bro who retroed The Eyrie prolly started his craft in The Shire.
Peeps like Tastrad wouldn't have his knickers in a knot over bolts at Ben Lomond, or others recently having to chop at Kaputar if they thought like you do.

Sister Wendy , here is another oportunity to work on your slippery slopes thesis. . .
One Day Hero
18-Mar-2018
8:35:26 PM
On 12-Mar-2018 arniearms wrote:
>Dosn't look so poxy with Dave Bateman behind the lens

I want m9 to try and critique that photo without mentioning boobs.

Jayford4321
20-Mar-2018
12:55:21 PM
On 18-Mar-2018 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 12-Mar-2018 arniearms wrote:
>>Dosn't look so poxy with Dave Bateman behind the lens
>
>I want m9 to try and critique that photo without mentioning boobs.

No takerz? Ok I'll try tha m9 imperson8 challenge . . .

Great shot!
Luv tha soft lighting 2 get U in tha mood for exploiting jugz using ropes n such.
Y when i were a lad we use2 exploit all tha jugz on climbz that we could find. Heh heh heh.
Did i tell U bout tha time i once climbed in tha dark?
Could hardly C tha jugz that time Bcause it was darker than a gerbil hole on a moonless night(!) , but thatz when my braille skillz came in handy! Talk about 1 handed bowline tying, Y in those conditionz U dint need no blindfoldz 2 do it , no sir. Bak then we just kept on siezin tha jugz till topping out cos that was tha motto , maintain 3 point contact at all timez , tho i still intrigued by how such poxy routes gave us so much pleazure. Come 2 mention it , they still do . . . Y iz that i wonda? heh, heh , heh.
5 starz for tha memaries , minus 1 for not bean able 2C tha belayher , an minus anotha 4 for havin 3 boltz all within 1 bodylength on such a short poxy bolda problem full of jugz aplenty 2 rest off of.
Would have given anotha half star if climba was wearin protection , cos itz not safe 2 deck without a helmet on when tha pox getz tha betta of U.
Well done photog an model.


IdratherbeclimbingM9
20-Mar-2018
9:34:15 PM
Well this thread has taken an interesting turn of direction, ... and the swerve initiated (hijacked?) by the thread author no less!

gnaguts, I reckon you have done a pretty fair job of 'imperson8ing' me, but to spice things up a little further, and to continue running with your theme; I'll donate a genuine historical piece of climbing hardware as a trophy (off my rack), to the best imperson8-M9 entry posted on this thread by the end of this month, in order to see if your effort can be bested...

~> So, let's see where the hijack takes us!
:)

Stugang
24-Mar-2018
10:55:06 AM
I’d like to play but you know what they say about people and glass houses

Superstu
24-Mar-2018
12:21:36 PM
On 24-Mar-2018 Stugang wrote:
>I’d like to play but you know what they say about people and glass houses

You mean, no kinky sex during daylight hours??

stugang
24-Mar-2018
1:19:32 PM
if what you mean is man boobs in bondage harnesses then thats exactly what I mean

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 38
There are 38 messages in this topic.

 

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