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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Poll Option Votes Graph
Looks sweet 3
10% 
I'm scared of heights but too weak to boulder 1
3% 
If you want to boulder, just don't clip the bolts 4
13% 
Who cares what a road cyclist thinks? 0
 
I want the Samarkand Mikl back 3
10% 
Probably the best route in Sydney 2
7% 
This is having sex with the corpse of impossible 6
20% 
Ultimate frisbee is now less stupid than climbing 11
37% 

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 38
Author
How poxy is Lucky's bolted roof boulder?
One Day Hero
5-Mar-2018
8:16:41 PM
Have a look in the fat burning thread. There's a roof which looks like it's about 3.5m above a flat, sandy landing. It's bolted to a loweroff before the lip. Dalai has called bullshit. Mikl said 'start a thread'. I say 'why thread when you can poll?'
mikllaw
6-Mar-2018
3:25:57 AM
It's a short, poxy, but super popular roof (Lucky's Roof, 18 or 20 if you start in the back and wreck your finger) at a short, poxy but super popular crag (Bangor). Bangor has some quite good routes (even a bunch of trad routes which are never repeated) but this one gets all the Glory. I think Lucky (Luke Weatherstone) bolted it off a stepladder.

The one on the right is Felix which gets hard around the lip.

Physics suggests that if it is close to the ground, then the bolts should be close together.

Not the best route in Sydney, but unfortunately the best route at Bangor.

bigchris
6-Mar-2018
11:45:10 AM

>Physics suggests that if it is close to the ground, then the bolts should
>be close together.

There you have it. No one likes being put in hospital.
dalai
Online Now
6-Mar-2018
12:28:36 PM
Physics suggests that if it is that close to the ground use a spotter and a couple of pads!

Macciza
6-Mar-2018
12:29:16 PM
Hmmm, 'Physics' has its place sure ... But 'Philosophy' says 'Its a boulder ... oh, and you can use mats if you want to ...' ...

Duang Daunk
6-Mar-2018
12:46:55 PM
On 6-Mar-2018 bigchris wrote:
>There you have it. No one likes being put in hospital.

True bro , but what has that to do with GRID bolting pox?
There are historical standards that have been dissed here and even though Bangor might be a relatively recently discovered shithole , it doesnít negate the historical standard.

Where is sister Wendy to lecture you on the thin end of wedges and such , when she is needed?

And Odius bro , whatís the go with sex and corpses?
Why not delete your fantasy as no one has voted for it anyway , and replace that option with plain english of;
Itís wrong to bolt boulder problems.
?
widewetandslippery
6-Mar-2018
3:50:32 PM
Bangor isn't a recent crag. It has a long history of short bolted crap. It's in the shire so by nature it's wrong. Those routes look like they totally fit in.

E. Wells
6-Mar-2018
4:29:58 PM
When a ball dreams it dreams of being a frisbee. Ultimate Frisbee and Inline Skating are the second and third greatest sports on the planet. The first is obviously Rolltimate Frisblade.
One Day Hero
6-Mar-2018
8:03:41 PM
On 6-Mar-2018 Duang Daunk wrote:
>And Odius bro , whatís the go with sex and corpses?

I was trying to roll with the whole 'murder of the impossible' thing, but much more pathetic to match the setting (this ain't Cerro Torre). Anyway, someone's voted for it now, so fuch off. You try and come up with something clever and funny in the 50 character limit of a poll option.
mikllaw
7-Mar-2018
3:26:26 AM
There's actually a great photo of this (by David Bateman?) in Climbing mag, about 2012. Mkaes it look like a hard DF to Dawn Wall. I had seppos asking what big cliff this was on the whole time I was travelling there

E. Wells
8-Mar-2018
5:18:37 AM
Word in the carpark is that Luke Weatherstone paints his naked body in ashes, walks on his hands and sleeps hanging upsidedown in trees.

Duang Daunk
8-Mar-2018
6:30:19 AM
On 6-Mar-2018 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 6-Mar-2018 Duang Daunk wrote:
>>And Odius bro , whatís the go with sex and corpses?
>
>I was trying to roll with the whole 'murder of the impossible' thing,
>but much more pathetic to match the setting (this ain't Cerro Torre). Anyway,
>someone's voted for it now, so fuch off. You try and come up with something
>clever and funny in the 50 character limit of a poll option.

Murder of the impossible? Itís a poxy boulder problem bro, but now you point that out I get the connection.
Hah, thatís funny!
Sorry I didnít get it first time, as I was too distracted by all the bling in the roof.
Have now changed my vote to your sex party.

I really donít know why I got upset because Iím not a boulderer, just more amazed that Sinney has none that are outraged (literate?), enough to speak up; either that or the new standard that even snakes have to duck to get under is accepted as NSWnormal.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
8-Mar-2018
9:57:35 AM
On 5-Mar-2018 One Day Hero wrote:
>Have a look in the fat burning thread. There's a roof which looks like
>it's about 3.5m above a flat, sandy landing. It's bolted to a loweroff
>before the lip.

This one.
... now reproduced here for your convenience, and to help this thread make sense in years to come.


gfdonc
8-Mar-2018
11:06:44 AM
Perhaps doesn't need a link to the "tie a knot in the end of your rope while belaying" thread.
dalai
Online Now
8-Mar-2018
2:59:16 PM
Given Mikl didn't bolt this abomination, I have edited the title to the bolters...
widewetandslippery
8-Mar-2018
3:29:32 PM
Helmets are cheating

pmonks
10-Mar-2018
5:41:59 AM
This rig is complete and utter bullshit. It was regularly soloed / bouldered back in the 90s, and clearly had been climbed earlier.

Not to compare Aussie testicular girth to that of seppos, but here's a "slightly tall" boulder problem in Bishop:



Wendy
11-Mar-2018
10:36:24 AM
Those guys are going to deck with the slack in the system anyway. Best they just beg for take. But other than that, the routes look like great fun.
Rawpowa!
11-Mar-2018
1:11:03 PM
You won't deck if you've got a fat belayer to give you a hard catch.
climberman
11-Mar-2018
2:25:26 PM
I canít believe anyone feels this is even close to the poxiest route in Sydney. Or that anyone in Sydney would care. Itís the City of Pox. Frankly I feel a slight pang of pride that youíve even brought up such a fine Sydney route to discuss. What next, criticism of Gloucester Buckets!?

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 38
There are 38 messages in this topic.

 

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