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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
New Nose record (2:19:44) now 1:58:07
gfdonc
23-Oct-2017
7:28:08 AM
New players, new record:
http://www.elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-102117-new-nose-record
simey
23-Oct-2017
9:31:09 AM
Awesome effort.

Shaving over 4 minutes from the previous record is super impressive.

It has been 5 years since I made a bet on Chockstone that it will be at least 20 years before the 2 hour barrier is broken. I still reckon I will be enjoying my free beers courtesy of Singer.

You can read all about that last discussion here...

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=1&MessageID=111999&Replies=1

Martym
23-Oct-2017
6:22:05 PM
That sure is an interesting read, I vaguely remember the Usain Bolt debate at the time, but there's a lot of stuff in there worth digging up now, considering two "unknowns" have taken 4 minutes off the record.
42 Years of The Nose Records
2017-10-21: Jim Reynolds, Brad Gobright in 2:19:44
(2017-10-10: Jim Reynolds, Brad Gobright in 2:34:30)
2012-6-17: Hans Florine, Alex Honnold in 2:23:46
2010-11-6: Dean Potter, Sean Leary in 2:36:45
2008-10-12: Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama in 2:37:05
2008-7-2: Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama in 2:43:33
2007-10-8: Alexander and Thomas Huber in 2:45:45
2007-10-4: Alexander and Thomas Huber in 2:48:30
2002-9-29: Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama in 2:48:55
2001-11: Dean Potter, Timmy OíNeill in 3:24:20
2001-10: Hans Florine, Jim Herson in 3:57:27
2001-10: Dean Potter, Timmy OíNeill in 3:59:35
1992: Hans Florine, Peter Croft in 4:22
1991:Peter Croft, Dave Schultz in 4:48
1991: Hans Florine, Andres Puhvel in 6:01
1990: Peter Croft, Dave Schultz in 6:40
1990: Hans Florine, Steve Schneider in 8:06
1986: John Bachar, Peter Croft in 10:05 not sure why this is listed? Was the 1984 ascent controversial?
1984: Duncan Critchley, Romain Vogler in 09:30 (approximate)
1975-05-26: Jim Bridwell, John Long, Billy Westbay in 17:45
- Source Gripped
Martym
23-Oct-2017
7:16:21 PM
From the other thread:
"Olympic dedication and training."
-These days he [Brad Gobright] works as a busboy at the St. Julien Hotel & Spa in Boulder, drives a 1994 Honda Civic, and counts grocery-store donuts among his diet staples. - OutsideOnline

"At another level, an obvious way to shave some seconds is for a team to decide that they are comfortable to simul-solo some sections with the rope on."
- To maximize their speed, they ditched camming devices meant to prevent falls and whatever weighty gear they could live without. They didnít pack food or water. ..what pushed Gobright and Reynolds over the speed record was their strategy in the climbís final stretch: The two men ascended nearly simultaneously, foregoing the usual practice of having one climber go on ahead of the other.- SF Gate

"I think we need a statistical analysis and a graph of the records. See if they're starting to level off to a minimum or if they're continuing a downward curve."
Done, but I don't know how to upload the graph!
It's a very steep drop to a long gradual decline.

Basically, it almost halved from nearly 18hrs to 9.5 in 10 years
Then from 9hrs 30 to 4hrs 33 in 6 years
Then it was another 10 years before another hour came off from 4.22 to 3.24
Another 10 years to get it to 2hrs 23 minutes;
And now 5 years to drop 4 minutes.
I don't have the exact dates, but it's definitely slowing down, which you'd expect.
Olbert
7-Jun-2018
7:02:48 PM
On 23-Oct-2017 simey wrote:
>Awesome effort.
>
>Shaving over 4 minutes from the previous record is super impressive.
>
>It has been 5 years since I made a bet on Chockstone that it will be at
>least 20 years before the 2 hour barrier is broken. I still reckon I will
>be enjoying my free beers courtesy of Singer.
>
>You can read all about that last discussion here...
>
>http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=1&MessageID=111999&Replies=1
>
>

Planning any trips to Buffalo anytime soon?

ajfclark
7-Jun-2018
9:12:09 PM
On 23-Oct-2017 simey wrote:
>Awesome effort.
>
>Shaving over 4 minutes from the previous record is super impressive.
>
>It has been 5 years since I made a bet on Chockstone that it will be at
>least 20 years before the 2 hour barrier is broken. I still reckon I will
>be enjoying my free beers courtesy of Singer.
>
>You can read all about that last discussion here...
>
>http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=1&MessageID=111999&Replies=1

You lose Simey: http://rockandice.com/climbing-news/the-nose-goes-sub-2-honnold-and-caldwell-set-new-record-of-15807/

MisterGribble
8-Jun-2018
7:39:56 AM
I think it will be at least 6 months before they get it under an hour - in winter
Martym
11-Jun-2018
9:40:24 AM
Crazy when something of this magnitude becomes boring for even the climbing media!
"Honestly, now that Honnold and Caldwell have broken two hours, we really hope these dudes call it a day or just take a breather. Weíre really getting tired of writing these."

Also crazy, this is their 3rd record breaking ascent in a fortnight:
"Honnold and Caldwell have been working on the Nose record all season,...they set two newónow obsoleteórecords en route to breaking the two-hour threshold: 2:10:15 on May 30, and 2:01:50 on June 4."
gfdonc
11-Jun-2018
1:09:30 PM
I think the best outcome of all is that Simey has to shout beers. Happy times.

ajfclark
11-Jun-2018
2:14:55 PM
On 11-Jun-2018 gfdonc wrote:
>I think the best outcome of all is that Simey has to shout beers. Happy times.

nonononono Steve:

On 19-Jun-2012 simey wrote:
>On 19/06/2012 singersmith wrote:
>>What are we betting, Simey?
>
>Well if you think another Alex is going to pop up in the near future and
>the original Alex will still be around to climb with him and the fact that
>this new team will not only break the current record but also smash off
>another 24mins... well if you think all these things will come into play
>sometime in the next twenty years I will happily devote my time to cleaning
>whatever new or existing route at Buffalo you think requires such attention.
>And if I should win you can buy me a slab of beers.
Wendy
11-Jun-2018
4:15:51 PM
seeing Singer is out of the country, I am happy to help Simey find a route to clean this summer. Shall we take a little road trip in February, Simey?

The good Dr
11-Jun-2018
4:19:22 PM
May I suggest that the Queen Victoria Route needs to be immaculate prior to the summer season.

phillipivan
11-Jun-2018
5:19:01 PM
There is a ways to go before the Nose speed record genuinely plateaus, if peeps remain motivated. The last time multiple minutes were taken from the male marathon world record was 1967.
gfdonc
12-Jun-2018
7:22:21 AM
On 11-Jun-2018 ajfclark wrote:
>nonononono Steve:
>
>On 19-Jun-2012 simey wrote:
>>sometime in the next twenty years I will happily devote my time to
>cleaning
>>whatever new or existing route at Buffalo you think requires such attention.


Oh eh, that's even better!
How is Status Quo looking these days? Bureaucrat used to be a great 14 when it was clean, too.
Singersmith
18-Jun-2018
4:39:40 AM
Simey. Nobody likes to do it. Itís never easy for just three short words. However, Singer was right.

Youíre a good man; everybody here knows that. A man of his word whom, for decades, has displayed standup character and built a fine reputation.

Give me some time to dust off a copy of the Buffalo guidebook and dig up a worthy project.

Wendy, got any requests? Iím thinking wide, mossy, and long....
simey
18-Jun-2018
12:50:39 PM
On 18-Jun-2018 Singersmith wrote:
>Simey. Nobody likes to do it. Itís never easy for just three short words.
>However, Singer was right.

Fair enough Singer. You were the only one with the balls to take me up on my bet. The spoils go to you.

>Youíre a good man; everybody here knows that. A man of his word whom,
>for decades, has displayed standup character and built a fine reputation.

You might have a few people question that statement. Even I would query it.

>Give me some time to dust off a copy of the Buffalo guidebook and dig
>up a worthy project.

Hopefully you do choose a worthy project. I want my gardening work to be appreciated by climbers repeating the route (otherwise don't expect an A1 cleaning job). I am pretty cynical about the value of cleaning routes nowadays as I've seen enough routes grow back over to the point of being unclimbable again. (Guidebooks full of routes too dirty to climb are a waste of time really). However I will be inspired if you pick a quality route that will be in demand for a few years at least. Was it you who cleaned Status Quo? That was definitely a worthwhile public service. Nice work!

>Wendy, got any requests? Iím thinking wide, mossy, and long....

Don't ask Wendy.


IdratherbeclimbingM9
18-Jun-2018
6:12:31 PM
On 11-Jun-2018 The good Dr wrote:
>May I suggest that the Queen Victoria Route needs to be immaculate prior
>to the summer season.

I second that motion.
;-)
Heh, heh, heh.

There are 17 messages in this topic.

 

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