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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 31
Author
Towards 1000 New Routes
dalai
5-Sep-2016
10:12:28 PM
Not like you to be throwing aerosols into the campfire M9!
One Day Hero
5-Sep-2016
10:32:14 PM
On 5/09/2016 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Hmm.
>I'm surprised ODH didn't jump on that theme back in 2012 (on an interesting
>thread), when tastrad put forward the same elements

It's just too crazy to deal with. Rap bolting routes while fully expecting them to never be repeated. I remember Wallwombat writing about going into the wilderness, rap bolting sport routes, leading them once, then never returning and never writing them up. It makes no sense at all. I'm not even mad, I just don't understand the abstract logic.
Wendy
6-Sep-2016
12:42:26 AM
The thing I liked about Gerry’s article was how it used the new routes to reflect on people, relationships, places and times of life, which is way more interesting than lists of numbers. Although I was impressed at the precise recall and counting – that OCD doesn’t need to be taken for a walk. It’s getting plenty of exercise sitting in front of a computer.

On the topic of new routes though, all new routes have an impact on the environment. Getting there, getting off, the inevitable route cleaning of some (possibly substantial) sort, before we even get into bolting. So I think it is worth thinking about whether it is worth doing it. And we don’t really do it just for ourselves. Sure, there is heaps of fun in exploring, spying a new line, working out if it will go, thinking up names. Not so much fun in route cleaning or bolting, although with Adam’s rock melting drill, it’s quite a rewarding sensation. But if we were just doing it for ourselves, we wouldn’t name them or write them up. They’d be left unknown for someone else to come along and think they were doing a first ascent and have all that fun too.

Which leaves us with finding a happy medium of whether the impact of doing the route on the environment outweighs the impact of doing the new route on our lives and climbing in general. There is, however, a lot of choss already climbed and recorded out there, which does suggest that if someone doesn’t do a route because it is not a “route of quality” and record it now, someone else we come along and do it later. People’s idea of quality varies. It is also a little pointlessly rude to call all people questioning the quality of new routes “bottom feeders” as well. It’s pretty normal to ask about the quality of routes, and plenty of people who do develop new routes will also ask about the quality of them. I think "bottom feeder" should actually be applied to someone who expects some mysterious "someone" to go out and put up new routes/rebolt/clean/place anchors/plant trees/pull weeds/build tracks/etc for them with no appreciation of the work or contributions towards crag maintenance in anyway.

At the same time, bolting a route whilst admitting it will probably never be repeated seems a bit silly. Why not just top rope it? Do we need to put bolts in the rock for 1 ascent? Or where the entire gully becomes mossed over from lack of attention?
simey
6-Sep-2016
3:32:27 PM
On 4/09/2016 One Day Hero wrote:
>This shit really bugs me. If you guys are keeping score on how many routes
>you've put up, no wonder so much of it is god-awful jesus-fuching worthless
>pox!
>
>I mean, if it goes on gear without trashing the rock with cleaning, then
>whatever.....there's probably no harm in taking your ocd for a walk. For
>fuchs sake though, do you really think you can bolt total shit, devalue
>the crag, and get away with "I must have seen some value in the route"?
>Sure you saw some value, it massaged your ego and got you one route closer
>to the magic thousand which sees you through the pearly gates of hilti.
>
>I'm not trying to single anyone out here, cough cough, halftheroutesathillwoodsuckdonkeyd
>cks

And to think Andy Pollitt was complaining about the lack of input to Chockstone... this is the sort of entertainment that still makes logging on worthwhile!
widewetandslippery
6-Sep-2016
3:44:41 PM
Damo its the cannibals, blow darting pygmies, angry gorrillas, lions and bandits. A river that whatever season has flow due to being fed by both sides of the equator. 2 5000m peaks, i agree the ebola andaďids are the last thing to worry about.
prb
6-Sep-2016
4:13:37 PM
^ even better, 4 x 5000m peaks - Kenya, Stanley and two summits of Kilimanjaro (Kibo and Mawenzi)
f_abe
6-Sep-2016
9:12:41 PM
New routes are great and all, but surely there's a better target in life?

http://www.11points.com/Dating-Sex/11_People_Who_Claim_To_Have_the_Most_Sexual_Partners_In_History

But as my good mate scoots once said; "I used to be socially retarded, then I started climbing..."
kieranl
6-Sep-2016
9:28:11 PM
On 6/09/2016 f_abe wrote:
>New routes are great and all, but surely there's a better target in life?
>
and I thought I'd converted you to the pleasures of new routing. How else to explain all those trips into the Solarium, a journey that would have reduced the average sports-climber to a gibbering wreck after 10 minutes?
f_abe
7-Sep-2016
9:22:21 AM
>>
>and I thought I'd converted you to the pleasures of new routing. How else
>to explain all those trips into the Solarium, a journey that would have
>reduced the average sports-climber to a gibbering wreck after 10 minutes?

alas it says too much about me that I choose to spend my time alone, bashing through bush in search of a piece of unclimbed rock...and by the way, since the track to the Solarium goes past Crag X now, it is no longer the nightmare it once was - fully cairned and cleared last Saturday once the rain stopped rock play!
Jayford4321
7-Sep-2016
10:47:34 AM
fab
Ur link sed
>Answer a survey question to continue reading this content
It woz spam.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
13-Sep-2016
9:31:48 PM
Cross-link to a spin-off thread from this one...

Cross-link to yet another (sub)spin-off thread from that one!

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 31
There are 31 messages in this topic.

 

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