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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 59
Author
"New" tricks for old dogs

rocksinmyhead
4-Jul-2016
5:23:00 PM
On 4/07/2016 simey wrote:
>
>I would have thought Chockstone would have been a pretty quiet and lonely
>place without ODH.
>
+1

But, Technogeekery, seeing how you started this thread, I'll refrain from quoting him here from now on.

And if you'd like something more on topic, one thing I've learnt is that when it comes to improving dynamic movement, I'm better off spending ten minutes watching a couple of keen ten year olds in the bouldering gym, than reading all the instruction manuals I've ever read.

ChuckNorris
4-Jul-2016
8:02:20 PM
On 3/07/2016 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 3/07/2016 Stugang wrote:
>>The guys would smash 5 push-ups in between grade 9 laps
>>on a vertical wall......gawping in disbelief at the two gladiators smash
>it out
>>for a full 2 minutes.
>
>Sounds a bit Crossfit. Did they have "the look"?

no "look" no "hoodies" no movement to blame their behaviour on... I think they were genuine straight out of the box fikwits.
simey
4-Jul-2016
8:36:05 PM
On 3/07/2016 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 3/07/2016 Stugang wrote:
>>The guys would smash 5 push-ups in between grade 9 laps
>>on a vertical wall......gawping in disbelief at the two gladiators smash
>it out
>>for a full 2 minutes.
>
>Sounds a bit Crossfit. Did they have "the look"?

What is the Crossfit look? Are you sure it wasn't Chris Webb Parsons?

Drake
4-Jul-2016
8:52:05 PM
Thanks for the post techno- lots of good stuff here. I also proudly back up my abseils with an extended device and a friction knot. I started with the petzl method (sling knotted on belay loop, autoblock on leg loop), but now generally use the method described here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfK02bOAhNs ; skip the bit with people riding horses at the beginning..). Basically, extend the device off belay loop with girth-hitched shoulder-length sling and tie prusik backup on belay loop. I find that I can more easily get the desired friction this way.

I skip this backup when it is straightforward and obviously safe (i.e., abseiling off the Eternity for the 37th time), but I use it extensively on multipitch abseils or when it is dark, raining, or otherwise uncertain.
mikllaw
5-Jul-2016
7:01:33 AM
2 useful things if you don't have enuff friction on a rap are:-

Before starting, if you clip a second biner the same size to the belay loop and also to the running rope loop through the ATC it adds about 20% more friction.

It MUST be the same size biner, and clipped to the belay loop or you get LESS friction.

if you are in the middle of a rap, you can do this for lots of extra friction:-

You could get fancy and use screwgates or double biners

As usual, practice these first to see if they are any use to you
technogeekery
5-Jul-2016
12:19:47 PM
On 4/07/2016 simey wrote:
>I would have thought Chockstone would have been a pretty quiet and lonely
>place without ODH.

My own feeling is that the opposite is true - so many potential users and contributors of this site have withdrawn or left because of his relentless negativity, personal attacks, and scornful attitude towards anyone less talented or knowledgeable.
technogeekery
5-Jul-2016
12:24:03 PM
Drake - yes I've tried both methods, and prefer having both the extended rap device and the backup on the belay loop as you describe. I also don't use a backup for short uncomplicated raps, but if I'm doing any kind of messing about on the descent, I'm loving the added security of the backup.

Mikl - never seen or tried that 2nd photo technique - can see it being really useful to know, thanks
Estey
5-Jul-2016
2:02:11 PM
On 5/07/2016 technogeekery wrote:
>On 4/07/2016 simey wrote:
>>I would have thought Chockstone would have been a pretty quiet and lonely
>>place without ODH.
>
>My own feeling is that the opposite is true - so many potential users
>and contributors of this site have withdrawn or left because of his relentless
>negativity, personal attacks, and scornful attitude towards anyone less
>talented or knowledgeable.

I would argue ODH's biggest contribution to Australian climbing is taking the piss out of climbers who take themselves to seriously on chocky. Such skill was once well respected but seems to be a dying art.

Eduardo Slabofvic
5-Jul-2016
2:13:02 PM
On 5/07/2016 technogeekery wrote:
> and scornful attitude towards anyone less
>talented or knowledgeable.

Gastropods have difficulty typing though
johnpitcairn
5-Jul-2016
2:57:33 PM
>My own feeling is that the opposite is true - so many potential users and contributors of this site have
>withdrawn or left because of his relentless negativity, personal attacks, and scornful attitude towards
>anyone less talented or knowledgeable.

Then again, so many might be here just to crack open a beer and watch the fun unfold. It's a bit like many of the old alt.whatever usenet groups (ah, now I feel old).
BA
5-Jul-2016
4:48:02 PM
On 5/07/2016 johnpitcairn wrote:

>Then again, so many might be here just to crack open a beer and watch
>the fun unfold. It's a bit like many of the old alt.whatever usenet groups
>(ah, now I feel old).

Don't worry, I can remember when it was useful before it was totally taken over by spam and porn. It was "sold off" and became 'unclickable', does it still exist? I was one of the people agitating for the 'aus.rec.climbing' domain to be registered. Now we have chockstone, set up by somebody who no longer climbs (I can relate to that) and has moved into serious photography. I'm sure that there are people who are still thankfull that Chocky was set up and that the moderators do a bloody good job of trying to keep us on track.
Andy P
5-Jul-2016
8:29:16 PM
Yep.
Very thankful. Surely a tireless task.
Thanks Mods.
One Day Hero
6-Jul-2016
1:11:00 AM
On 5/07/2016 technogeekery wrote:
>so many potential users
>and contributors of this site have withdrawn or left because of his relentless
>negativity, personal attacks, and scornful attitude towards anyone less
>talented or knowledgeable.

Well fuch me, it's actually working? This is great.

Hey Stuey, you loser, what are your numbers looking like? I'm ignored by 8, 35 voting me off.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6-Jul-2016
9:29:44 PM
On 5/07/2016 mikllaw wrote:
>It MUST be the same size biner, and clipped to the belay loop or you get LESS friction.

That is interesting...
Why is it different to the old practice of similarly clipping any style of extra krab into the friction portion of the rope within a sticht plate to provide more friction? ...
The trick of doing that and not ending up with a jerky abseil was to allow the extra krab to free-float by not clipping it back to the belay loop!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6-Jul-2016
9:34:52 PM
On 28/06/2016 phillipivan wrote:
>On 28/06/2016 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>>"New" tricks for old dogs
>>
>>What I'm not keen on is the new attitude that goes with some of the new
>>tricks...
>>... Like overbolted slabs.
>>Like over protected NPs (eg ban on climbing Nth Head, and Balls Pyramid).
>>
>>Like U-tube instructional videos that amount to death on a stick...
>
>
>Shit. Make up your mind Rod. Is the world getting too safe, or too dangerous.

Both, depending on the individuals bent, & sometimes within the same pitch!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6-Jul-2016
10:26:48 PM
On 29/06/2016 technogeekery wrote:
>M9 - is your gout playing up? :P Thought you might have SOMETHING that has changed for the better in your illustrious climbing career. Check out the instructional videos on AMGA for something a bit better than death on a stick - I'd have loved to be able to access these when I was a kid. https://amga.com/tag/climbing-fundamentals-video-series/

Yes, there are good vids available. Thanks for the link.

Re changes for the better...
Modern rope technology beats old rope technology.
Same for gear eg slcds vs passive gear for parallel cracks.
Hmm. Given such changes apparently I've been around a while, ... though I still enjoy the aid climbing game, but in its revised clean-aid format of these 'modern' times!

Eduardo Slabofvic
6-Jul-2016
11:21:31 PM
On 6/07/2016 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>
>Re changes for the better...
>

... and just to be a contrarian, I don't like how WC Rock have gotten progressively smaller over the years.

I like the originals that were twice a wide as they were thick. You could cam them in certain placements, like pockets etc.

ChuckNorris
9-Jul-2016
2:53:11 PM
On 6/07/2016 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 5/07/2016 technogeekery wrote:
>>so many potential users
>>and contributors of this site have withdrawn or left because of his relentless
>>negativity, personal attacks, and scornful attitude towards anyone less
>>talented or knowledgeable.
>
>Well fuch me, it's actually working? This is great.
>
>Hey Stuey, you loser, what are your numbers looking like? I'm ignored
>by 8, 35 voting me off.

Cumulatively over all users I win and 6 of those 8 voting you off are me.
widewetandslippery
9-Jul-2016
3:03:44 PM
Where are the stats, I have 2 ignore and 11 wanting to send me to the desert.

My new tricks are lying about first ascents, hydralite diluted, those little tissue packets for poo paper, aldi bargin days.

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 59
There are 59 messages in this topic.

 

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