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"New" tricks for old dogs 27-Jun-2016 At 2:41:42 PM technogeekery

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I learned to climb in the '80s, self taught from books and picking up hints from the crusties at the Mountain Club. Pretty safe, eventually, but very much a "leader must not fall" mindset. And some of those practises have hung on in my climbing to this date - lead on half ropes, indirect belays of the second from the harness, set belays with the rope, belaying with friction device rather than assisted locking.

But over the last few years I've been consciously trying new things, rejecting some, and adopting others. This weekend I did one I've been avoiding for years, and completely revise my rap techniques - and afterwards just thought - why didn't I do this years ago? Here are a few things I've changed and really like the "new" way - have you got any similar "new" tricks that have worked for you?

Rap - I've always used double fisherman's to join ropes on a long rap. Its bomber, I know its bomber, and I've used it for 30 years so I have not the slightest concern. But its bloody hard to undo, and it does jam sometimes - so I finally got around to trying the EDK (overhand tied with double ropes) on a triple-rap descent where getting the rope stuck would be a big issue. It looks terrifyingly simple / insufficient, and going over the edge for the first time was horrible - but I've read the studies and it really is bomber... so over-rode my reptile brain. It held. Interestingly, it did jam on one pull - took two of us heaving to break it loose - but of course that means nothing, I guess if that had been a double fisherman's it could have been irretrievable. But it is easy & quick to tie, to check, and to untie after being loaded, and I could also pull it through some big rings when I threaded the rap station the wrong way - so I'll keep using it.

Using autoblock (French prusik) as 3rd-hand backup on rap. I've never backed up raps - never knew it was possible for many years, and then when I first tried it many years ago, found it a real hassle (using prusik knot above friction device) and even possibly hazardous. But I've recently started extending the friction device a little, and then using autoblock off belay loop. Such a simple wrap of rope, doesn't look like it should work - but it is super easy to set, use, reset, and adds about 10s to the rap setup. And when you release it and let it stop you, the mechanism becomes obvious - and looks bomber. For that 10s I'd say it would save minutes of stuffing about with leg wraps etc while sorting rope snarls on the way down - and adds a significant layer of safety. I love it, I'm a convert.

PAS / Chain reactor as tether. Still trying this out - wasn't convinced I need to carry MORE crap up a climb, I already carry far too much pro as I'm a scaredy cat. And there is nothing you can do with a PAS that you can't do with rope / slings etc. But gee it is convenient for extending your friction device on rap, then using the free end to clip to rap station, for clipping in to bolts or anchor at end of a pitch, for getting hanging belays just right, etc. Non essential, but I like it, and means I can use all my slings on the route, not save for the belay, or unpick knots after making up tethers etc.

Cordelette - I made belays from the rope for years, and it just works. But for the last couple of years I've made up my own cordelettes, and my belayer and I each carry / use one for multipitch trad. I keep them tied in a quad for bolted routes, and it is super quick / bomber / convenient. Untied into a loop it is easy to make mostly equalised 3-anchor belays very fast. I really like having the rope outside of the belay, keeps things clean & simple. A convenience item that has possibly improved the safety of my belays - and definitely been worth its weight in speed / ease / flexibility. I have one in 5.5mm tech cord (much lighter and more compact) and one in 7mm accessory cord - and prefer the latter for its flexibility, stretch, handling characteristics etc. I'm a complete convert.