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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Shaded Arapiles climbing?
Josephdmuro
1-Feb-2016
8:48:16 AM
Hi everyone, I've lurked here for a while but created an account to steal some knowledge about quality shaded climbs at araps. I'm going up for the weekend with a mate and it's looking to be in the mid to high 30's. Anyone know of any quality climbing in the shade from the 14-20 range? Any info is much appreciated.

-Joe
(removed)
1-Feb-2016
11:05:18 AM
Answer: heaps, but two obvious ones for the weekend:

Central Gully Right side is pretty good - even on 35+ days. Mari (17) and Electric Warrior (well protected 20) and Megalomaniac (14), if you're into that sort of thing.

Back of the Pharos - Lamplighter (3 pitch 14), Judgement Day (3 pitch 19)

Enjoy !
kieranl
1-Feb-2016
12:01:24 PM
And you can increase your options by being creative.

If you get up at the crack of dawn and get going you can be up some good things before they come into the sun : Watchtower Crack, probably Skink, first pitch of Oceanoid. Then you can have a leisurely late breakfast. before hitting Central Gully right side and the Bluffs : Morfydd, Kinkaid, The Philanthropist, Firedance, Dire Straits, Thunder Crack, Bulger, Shoadee, Shalimar. It should have hit 3pm by now and pretty much everything else will be in the shade.

Now for day two...
gfdonc
1-Feb-2016
1:43:17 PM
Intrepid Gully is the coolest place I've climbed at Arapiles. Cold air collects in the chasm, with the effect that it feels like the A/C has been running.

*Opening (18) is a suitable grade.

Vwills
1-Feb-2016
1:53:03 PM
Was there last week. Start early. Front wall of Pharos in shade until 11am eg oceanoid 17, transatlantic crossing 19 and the 18 to the left. All good routes. Then coming on Chris in shade until midday. Then Virginia in shade . Then go and do lamplighter.
Rats alley also good.
ldshield
1-Feb-2016
3:13:50 PM
In December I climbed with a mate on Dune Buttress in Central Gully Right on a 40 degree day. I assumed I was going to fry, but in fact it was shaded and reasonably habitable until mid-late afternoon. we were more down in the gully, so it may have been a different story on top, of course.

There are 6 messages in this topic.

 

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