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Scariest climbing moments


IdratherbeclimbingM9

16-Aug-2004
5:24:48 PM

On 16/08/2004 wonderdog wrote:
>The East Face of Crookneck (17 allegedly) in the Glasshouse Mts
Its a real bummer that this route is closed. It was (still is) a classic.
From memory I thought it was harder than 17 inasmuchas; 1st pitch seemed more like 19; 2nd seemed 17 and 3rd easier again at about 14.
(Must go and re-read a guide to see how wrong I am)?


nmonteith

16-Aug-2004
5:49:55 PM

My mum managed to get up that route (via aid) in the 1950's with a hemp rope, some pins and some crappy slings. The 'highlight' was abseiling off the three pitch overhung climb - using the body abseil technique. They were a totally different breed to climbers today!

James

16-Aug-2004
5:52:21 PM

if you compare a 20yr old photo of the East Face route on Crookneck & a recent pic you can see that a number of the pillars on the 1st pitch have fallen off.

PS: last I saw the grade was 19


HEX

16-Aug-2004
6:03:10 PM

Oh I like ta have a beer with Ja-ames
Oh I like ta...awshutthef@#$%uphex!!!

titta,snigga ! ...


nmonteith

16-Aug-2004
6:41:43 PM

On 16/08/2004 James wrote:
>if you compare a 20yr old photo of the East Face route on Crookneck & a
>recent pic you can see that a number of the pillars on the 1st pitch have
>fallen off.
>
>PS: last I saw the grade was 19

We upgraded the route when the start pillar was levered off. The crux is now getting off the ground!


HEX

17-Aug-2004
6:22:37 PM

On 12/08/2004 shmalec wrote:
>What moment stands out as a supremely scary climbing moment ...?

Carrigan's ,(any relation to the Gold medalist ?), ascent of Raptures \ Intothemorgue
would have to be the Australian yard-stick for this question...


Hardware

19-Aug-2004
11:33:16 AM

My scariest moment to date was at the gramps with my first ever fall on natural gear. I was attempting to redpoint 'sowetto' as I had seconded the climb previously that month. About 3/4 of the way up in the middle of the thin section with my last piece of pro (no.2 rp) at my right ankle. I was fully pumped and elvis had set in as I peeled of the rock. Luckily my crappy placement held as arms and legs went flailing about. I finished the climb with the little dignity I had left and waited for my second to arrive at the top.

My scary climbing moment.

There are 27 messages in this topic.