Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Punks in the Gym - Fact check.
Andy P
3-Jul-2015
4:26:12 PM
Hi,
Long time viewer, first time poster so please go easy OK?, Ta.
More for us 'oldsters' really I suppose, but back in 1985/6 weren't Australian ethics still 'yo-yo' like Britain?
Wolfgang's normal (and Stefan's the following year would've been 'work it then redpoint' back in Europe) so in which 'style' were their legendary ascents made?
I 'have it' - on obviously unstable grounds, versions of both.... "I heard..." "My mate said..."
Anyone on here lucky enough to witness climbing history?
Cheers.

kieranl
3-Jul-2015
4:50:15 PM
I think 'ethics' is too noble a term for the underpinning of ascent style back then. The concept of 'plausible deniability' would have been very popular if people had heard of the expression.
I don't know what style Wolfgang applied on Punks but I suspect that he was too nice to sink to the level of the locals.
Karl Bromelow
4-Jul-2015
8:42:12 AM
Not a definitive answer but he certainly had no problem with yoyoing. Scroll to the bottom of page three in this interview from Climbing mag in 1987. http://www.wolfgangguellich.com/artikel/a5.pdf
Andy P
4-Jul-2015
10:09:57 AM
Many thanks Kieranl - what a wonderful turn of phrase, and Karl Bromelow very much too, heck, I'd completely forgotten that article - brilliant, cheers.
'Wolfy' was staying at our (Jerry Moffatt, Chris Gore and Martin Atkinson's) house in Sheffield, UK for a week or so (this was around 1986/7 - so a year or so post-PITG, as I was just back from a shoulder injury) and we were all still yoyoing (Ron Fawcett's routes out in the Peak District) but these were definitely the last of that 'style' as Jerry, 'Basher' (Martin) and Gore were adopting the French style and Britain basically followed their lead. Actually, Ben Moon's Statement of Youth was really the first true redpoint (in 1984) as far as I recall.
Anyway, hopefully someone will be along soon who was there on the day/s...
Cheers.


Dave C
5-Jul-2015
10:45:26 PM
Gullich did not redpoint Punks, there was a bolt he could not clip on lead if i recall correctly. Also, I am pretty sure that Stefan Glowacz not only yo-yoed the second ascent of Punks but also the first ascent of Lord of the Rings, both a year later. Have vague memory of reading that Jerry Moffat was the first to redpoint Punks around '91 but I was living overseas by that time so not first hand knowledge.
Andy P
6-Jul-2015
1:29:02 PM
Thank you Dave C, much appreciated and supports the claims of two other independent witnesses.
Indeed Jerry was the first to redpoint PITG, your memory's spot on.
Cheers.
widewetandslippery
6-Jul-2015
1:41:02 PM
when did boring Stu do it?
Dave J
7-Jul-2015
10:33:01 AM
On 6/07/2015 widewetandslippery wrote:
>when did boring Stu do it?

'93
maxdacat
8-Jul-2015
10:29:03 AM
On 4/07/2015 VHAS wrote:
>
>'Wolfy' was staying at our (Jerry Moffatt, Chris Gore and Martin Atkinson's)
>house in Sheffield, UK for a week or so (this was around 1986/7 - so a
>year or so post-PITG, as I was just back from a shoulder injury)
>
>
>

Was that when he fell off Masters Edge?
Andy P
8-Jul-2015
5:09:21 PM
Thankfully no, not that week, possibly a little later but can't be sure I'm afraid. My diaries record 'us lot' and Wolfgang all attempting 'Big Ron's' The Vision down in Water-cum-Jolly.
The 'Great Man' had a keen sense of humour it should be said - particularly when (very lightheartedly) ribbed about the German pronunciations of 'V' and 'W'. The above route and location sounded hilarious the more he suggested we go and try it... lovely man.
Cheers.
NottobeTaken
9-Jul-2015
1:33:42 PM
Was watching a flick of you soloing Pilot Error and doing Slinkin' just yesterday. Pretty sure Mountain magazine reported a yo-yo ascent for both WG (6 days) and SG (6 or 7 days), then Jerry employed redpoint style in '92 and did it in 2. I seem to remember a story about Raboutou finding it desperate so going off and doing Lord instead. Also - the 'bolt' WG could not clip was the fixed wire.
Andy P
9-Jul-2015
7:32:00 PM
Thanks Nottobetaken,
Yes, the little video - oh to be 27, fit and healthy again.
So back to the garage for that box of old climbing mags I shipped out donkeys' ago then...
You're correct; Jerry, '92 was first. Then Sean Myles. Then Marko Lukic all within a few days. Funny how once the first one the ascents just flood in!
There's (I assume its still there) a vicious little wall Didier Raboutou was attempting way over on the RH side of Araps, he placed a bolt I believe as it was an abandoned 'local' climber's project. I added a bolt to the belay and (I think) one below the crux. Thing was, it had the biggest, most blatantly manufactured hold low down so I,,, abandoned it.
Oh yes, the 'bolt' on Punks was indeed the fixed RP - with a part worn-though tape sling which ran straight over the middle of the crux edge and got totally in the way.
Cheers.




There are 12 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints