Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 25
Author
Training Regimes
kieranl
9-Apr-2015
5:07:34 PM
Strange Fruit, is/was a performing arts company that did some perfornances up here a few years ago and a few locals got to workshop and perform with them.
Wendy
9-Apr-2015
6:05:54 PM
This is more of a promotional vid for strange fruit, but it is based on the Horsham gig and you can play spot Wendy and Eduardo.
http://vimeo.com/21956141

Sabu, I'd go the woody over the hang board. I honestly think something where you practice using your feet and core are more relevant than free hanging. And much as I would still plug the rock-change, if you go to the gym twice for 4 hours each time and go climbing both days of the weekend, you probably get almost as much time climbing as I do in my 4 days or so a week on rock here. Although I don't understand how people have the energy for all that on top of working full time. I'd be a wreck.
One Day Hero
9-Apr-2015
8:49:44 PM
On 9/04/2015 BundyBear wrote:
>Perfect Damo !! I know how you feel :-)

Ever catch yourself sitting at work and wondering whether constant tiredness is killing your motivation, or is it that your lack of motivation is making you feel constantly tired? And for bonus points; assuming you figured out the answer to question one, would it actually make any difference?
dhunchak
9-Apr-2015
10:39:03 PM
On 9/04/2015 Sabu wrote:
>All valid points Wendy. However, not all of us live next door to a world
>class crag nor is it feasible to get to the gym multiple times a week,
>and even if it were the $$ would add up fast. Hence, other options like
>a hangboard, woody or set of relevant exercises are needed.
>
>The preference is of course always to climb and certainly the most gains
>I've noticed have been where I was in the pines for a few weeks but that
>is a luxury not all of us can have all the time.

I work way too much and climb too little, but am still relatively ambitious when it comes to my climbing. I've tried over the years to come up with a regime that will allow me to trad climb well when I get outdoors once every few months. So far this has been a bust, but since I've tried a lot of things that didn't work (for example metolius hang board exercises), I thought I'd share what I'm working on now, which is a bit of an improvement over my past efforts. It still doesn't address any of the issues that Wendy brings up, which are all very important obviously.

The basics of my workout are inspired by workouts posted on the Athlete by Choice website (you can google this easily and I recommend people give it a read), but I've tweaked it to work on my weakness which is steep route stamina.

Basically I have a set of rock rings that I hang from a chin up bar in a door frame. I hang with my feet out front resting on the floor in roughly a seated position, simulating a 45 degree overhang. You can put your feet on a chair to make it steeper if you like. Currently, I'm hanging from various size holds in the following pattern: both hands on for 10sec, then L / R handed only for 5sec each. I do sets of 10min continuous hanging on various hold patterns, with the goal to both decrease the size of the holds I'm using and increase the length of time I'm holding on. Eventually I want to be able to get strength back while "resting" on the jugs instead of pumping out like I am currently, and start to do 30min sets.

The idea of hanging both two and one handed is based on some stuff I read in a Dave MacLeod book which suggested that climbing endurance is always anaerobic due to the body weight forearm strength ratio, however we frequently give each arm a rest while reaching for the next hold / shaking out etc, and that the ability to recover from short bursts of anaerobic activity is crucial.

In between sets, you can do core exercises etc if you like. I don't recommend doing too many chin ups or push ups, as repetitive movements are a good way to injure yourself. For the same reason, I recommend only doing one of these workouts / week, and viewing it as a less time intensive training supplement to bouldering or some other actually effective training tool. The main drawback is that these workouts are intensely boring and motivation flags pretty easily. The main advantage is that you can get pretty pumped in 20min if you're weak like me, which is way less time than going to the gym.

Hope some people have found this helpful / interesting.

Sabu
10-Apr-2015
7:52:51 AM
On 9/04/2015 Wendy wrote:
>Sabu, I'd go the woody over the hang board.

That's always been the goal, just need the space!

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 25
There are 25 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints